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2021 FJR1300ES
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16 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all. I’m a longtime biker from the Hudson Valley and I enjoy many different brands of motorcycle, including classic bikes. I recently picked up an almost new FJR1300ES with some crash damage on the left side. I am in the process of making it right again and I look forward to interacting with some of the more experienced FJR enthusiasts that populate this forum. I hope to see you on the road…when spring hits.
Wayne
 

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2021 FJR1300ES
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16 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I have ridden a number of them and they are really nice bikes. I am looking forward to putting some miles on this one to see how it does with some distance riding. I like the sport touring concept of it. Thanks for the welcome.
 

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2009 FJR 1300AE
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530 Posts
Welcome and congrats on your new ride. Where abouts in NY are you located. :D
 

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Premium Member
Versys 1000, VFR800
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9,764 Posts
Only in as much as my left mirror is broken off at the stay. Previous owner layed it down to avoid a deer. I see where it is broken.
Depends on the break.... remove the dash plastic and the mirror. Align the break.... epoxy it by glueing the two together, then lay on more epoxy on both sides of the break..... use Permatex epoxy, JB weld is weaker and runnier. Perhaps think of drilling a couple of holes through the crack, which will act like a button once epoxied.
Replacing the stay is a big job, will take you all day long as the whole nose has to come off. Epoxy for now...
 

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2021 FJR1300ES
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16 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Depends on the break.... remove the dash plastic and the mirror. Align the break.... epoxy it by glueing the two together, then lay on more epoxy on both sides of the break..... use Permatex epoxy, JB weld is weaker and runnier. Perhaps think of drilling a couple of holes through the crack, which will act like a button once epoxied.
Replacing the stay is a big job, will take you all day long as the whole nose has to come off. Epoxy for now...
I would do that except for one small problem. The broken piece, and the mirror are MIA. Thanks though.
 

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3,727 Posts
Howdy. Welcome to the forum.

A couple more "sort of problems - maybe":
Part of dealer prep is putting Locktite on the screws holding the saddlebag locks onto the saddlebags. You will need a little Locktite (the blue stuff) and a T10 Security Torx. Harbor Freight sells a set of security bits for about $7. Many dealers have skipped this, resulting in lost and damaged saddlebags. If you think that front stay is expensive, price a replacement saddlebag.

If you change your own oil, the torque spec for the engine oil drain bolt is wrong. (We have been bitching about this for years.) The FSM says 31 lbs-ft. That tight and you run the risk of stripping the threads in the crankcase. Final drive drain bolt (same size bolt into the same kind of aluminum casting) and filler is 17 lbs-ft, a more reasonable figure.

In 2013, one of the economy measures MamaYama did was go to a single, wimpy horn instead of the dual horns the Series II bikes have. Many of us replace that single horn with a pair of PIAA Sport Horns (check the archives).

Many of us are running more tire pressure than the Owner's Manual and FSM specify. Many of us have settled on tire pressures in the neighborhood of 40FR/42RR.
 

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Registered
2003 FJR1300R / 2007 Husq SMR 510
Joined
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102 Posts
Hello all. I’m a longtime biker from the Hudson Valley and I enjoy many different brands of motorcycle, including classic bikes. I recently picked up an almost new FJR1300ES with some crash damage on the left side. I am in the process of making it right again and I look forward to interacting with some of the more experienced FJR enthusiasts that populate this forum. I hope to see you on the road…when spring hits.
Wayne
BRO!!! I am right up in Albany ( I already know the place sucks so save it ) We should def get together when there isn't frost, black ice and snow and do some ADK riding!
I literally know every good piece of asphalt from Kingston to Watertown and up to Rouses Point. We should talk. I don't really do group rides but if you like to roll I can show you some of the most unique pavement this pos has to offer. I ride LD too, not really with other people but if you about your shit and I am about mine thats cool.
 

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Registered
2021 FJR1300ES
Joined
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16 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Howdy. Welcome to the forum.

A couple more "sort of problems - maybe":
Part of dealer prep is putting Locktite on the screws holding the saddlebag locks onto the saddlebags. You will need a little Locktite (the blue stuff) and a T10 Security Torx. Harbor Freight sells a set of security bits for about $7. Many dealers have skipped this, resulting in lost and damaged saddlebags. If you think that front stay is expensive, price a replacement saddlebag.

If you change your own oil, the torque spec for the engine oil drain bolt is wrong. (We have been bitching about this for years.) The FSM says 31 lbs-ft. That tight and you run the risk of stripping the threads in the crankcase. Final drive drain bolt (same size bolt into the same kind of aluminum casting) and filler is 17 lbs-ft, a more reasonable figure.

In 2013, one of the economy measures MamaYama did was go to a single, wimpy horn instead of the dual horns the Series II bikes have. Many of us replace that single horn with a pair of PIAA Sport Horns (check the archives).

Many of us are running more tire pressure than the Owner's Manual and FSM specify. Many of us have settled on tire pressures in the neighborhood of 40FR/42RR.
Howdy. Welcome to the forum.

A couple more "sort of problems - maybe":
Part of dealer prep is putting Locktite on the screws holding the saddlebag locks onto the saddlebags. You will need a little Locktite (the blue stuff) and a T10 Security Torx. Harbor Freight sells a set of security bits for about $7. Many dealers have skipped this, resulting in lost and damaged saddlebags. If you think that front stay is expensive, price a replacement saddlebag.

If you change your own oil, the torque spec for the engine oil drain bolt is wrong. (We have been bitching about this for years.) The FSM says 31 lbs-ft. That tight and you run the risk of stripping the threads in the crankcase. Final drive drain bolt (same size bolt into the same kind of aluminum casting) and filler is 17 lbs-ft, a more reasonable figure.

In 2013, one of the economy measures MamaYama did was go to a single, wimpy horn instead of the dual horns the Series II bikes have. Many of us replace that single horn with a pair of PIAA Sport Horns (check the archives).

Many of us are running more tire pressure than the Owner's Manual and FSM specify. Many of us have settled on tire pressures in the neighborhood of 40FR/42RR.
Thanks for the welcome and the info. 31 ft. lb. would sound like a whopping amount of torque on the drain plug. I’m glad you made mention of that because it would be pretty aggravating to strip those threads out. I will check those saddlebags as well. You are also right about the horn being on their solo so I will check on changing them out while I have it apart. So far I have a bunch of parts ordered and I have most of the damaged stuff off, but I’m awaiting the service manual for reference. I will be perusing the forum regularly. Thanks.
 

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2021 FJR1300ES
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16 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
BRO!!! I am right up in Albany ( I already know the place sucks so save it ) We should def get together when there isn't frost, black ice and snow and do some ADK riding!
I literally know every good piece of asphalt from Kingston to Watertown and up to Rouses Point. We should talk. I don't really do group rides but if you like to roll I can show you some of the most unique pavement this pos has to offer. I ride LD too, not really with other people but if you about your shit and I am about mine thats cool.
I’m always looking for someone to ride with so that sounds good. There is a lot of great riding in the Catskills, northwestern CT and MA. Looking forward to spring already.
 

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61 Posts
I am in the Hudson Valley between New Paltz and Kingston. Thanks for the welcome.
I'm just down 32/208 from you in Wallkill. Replaced that damn mirror stay 2X on my bike, and the rear subframe a few times as well. Look me up if you have any questions or if you want to meet up for a ride and/or coffee some time. Ken
 

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Registered
2021 FJR1300ES
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16 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I'm just down 32/208 from you in Wallkill. Replaced that damn mirror stay 2X on my bike, and the rear subframe a few times as well. Look me up if you have any questions or if you want to meet up for a ride and/or coffee some time. Ken
Thanks. We have likely ridden many of the same roads. That mounting point for the mirror definitely looks like a weak point, and it doesn’t seem like there are much in the way of options to make it stronger. If I still had the broken piece I would think about trying to find a way to reinforce it.
 
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