[rbentnail]

Maybe it's the wrong oil. I tried Rotella in my bike exactly twice. My bike hated it. It made the clutch slip. Just sayin'. Haven't looked back since I dumped that crap for good. 138,xxx miles later and the all-factory clutch internals still work like they did on day 1 new from the dealer.

 

[FastPappy]

Ditto for me. Tried Rotella once and shifting became wonky. Back to 20/50 motorcycle specific and all is and has been well. IMHO it's worth a try before tearing into everything.

 

[USNSCPO]

Interesting... My FJ09 was fine with it. First I've heard it not agreeing with a bike clutch. Perhaps I'll do both. Its no big deal to rebuild the slave, and I can easily try another oil as well. Thanks gents!

 

[rbentnail]

Interesting... My FJ09 was fine with it. First I've heard it not agreeing with a bike clutch. Perhaps I'll do both. Its no big deal to rebuild the slave, and I can easily try another oil as well. Thanks gents!

Yeah Chief, it sounds weird but each machine has its own quirks. Our '06-'12 models have distinctive personalities of their own. When people started suggesting I add STP oil treatment to the Rotella "to make it work better" I dumped it out for good. Valvoline 10w-40 Motorcycle full synthetic from Auto Zone is what I've been using since Valvoline discontinued their auto 10w-40. Either Mobil M1-108 or M1-110 filter fits.

Nuke MM1/SS, '78-84. SSBN627(G)

 

[passx]

STP, would be very bad,,, nothing but oil in the sump !

Myself, I would add that Rotella is a funny deal, it does seem to make shifting a bit more clunky but it seems to stay the same from start to Finnish. Currently I have 10w-40 t5 in my fjr and has been there for a while now, since I had my clutch slipping problem 2yrs ago (about 1500mi on it) I normally use the Yammalube 15w-50 full syn which gives me the very best performance. Hoping to get it changed this week.

on the Rotella I use it in my CBX’s which are air cooled and run very hot, the Rotella seems to work better with the high oil temps. Just my .02, use whatever works for you, just no additives.

 

[FastPappy]

What ever the fix I would just recommend to do it separately so you can see what is actually working. Then you can enlighten the rest of us. 😁

 

[USNSCPO]

Slave rebuilt. More gunk and varnish in the slave housing. The piston and seal looked good. There was a ring of built up hardened, varnish-like material about where the piston seal rests when the clutch is not engaged. Took some 000 steal wool and buffed it off, blew out the housing and reassembled everything and flushed the system with nearly a full bottle of DOT4. Its rainy and windy so no test ride today.

Don't want to get into the merits of various oil brands, but I'm having a hard time believing the 15w-40 Rotella T6 would be the cause, simply because except for the slight weight difference, it exceeds Yamaha's call out in the owner's manual. I could certainly be wrong, and I'm fine with that.

@FastPappy - I'm going to hold off on the oil change until I can test ride the rebuilt the slave. If the slip is still there, then I'll go with a "motorcycle" oil that matches Yamaha's call out. Local Autozone stocks a Valvoline and Lucas brands that are sold as "motorcycle" specific. Can't do anything else at this point, as I'm still waiting on a clutch pack, should all else fail.

Thanks again, everyone for the great info and suggestions! You've been a great help /thumbsup.

 

[FastPappy]

Slave rebuilt. More gunk and varnish in the slave housing. The piston and seal looked good. There was a ring of built up hardened, varnish-like material about where the piston seal rests when the clutch is not engaged. Took some 000 steal wool and buffed it off, blew out the housing and reassembled everything and flushed the system with nearly a full bottle of DOT4. Its rainy and windy so no test ride today.

Don't want to get into the merits of various oil brands, but I'm having a hard time believing the 15w-40 Rotella T6 would be the cause, simply because except for the slight weight difference, it exceeds Yamaha's call out in the owner's manual. I could certainly be wrong, and I'm fine with that.

@FastPappy - I'm going to hold off on the oil change until I can test ride the rebuilt the slave. If the slip is still there, then I'll go with a "motorcycle" oil that matches Yamaha's call out. Local Autozone stocks a Valvoline and Lucas brands that are sold as "motorcycle" specific. Can't do anything else at this point, as I'm still waiting on a clutch pack, should all else fail.

Thanks again, everyone for the great info and suggestions! You've been a great help /thumbsup.

Sounds like a plan. Regarding the oil I think it's more a matter of additives rather than brand. Can't wait to see how the rebuild works out. Keep us posted.

 

[passx]

Chris, maybe I missed it but does your bike have the oe levers or have they been replaced ? What color are they ?

 

[USNSCPO]

Nope, OE levers. Although, I may explore aftermarket levers this winter?

 

[USNSCPO]

Bloody weather... either 25mph+ wind, or rain, and more on the way.

 

[USNSCPO]

Welp, the problem persists. Got some 20/50 Valvoline to try.

 

[rbentnail]

I use 20w-50 only in the heat of the summer. 10w-40 and 10w-30 is more than adequate for normal weather.

 

[passx]

Well Chris, imho I think you’re down to pulling the clutch pack, unfortunately ! I would pull the plates and do a soak & clean after measuring them to ensure they are at an acceptable thickness, check the clutch basket so that there are no notch’s worn into it.

i don’t know what fresh fibers cost but might be worthwhile just to start fresh, look close at the steels to make sure they aren’t blue’d and warped. Let us know !

 

[USNSCPO]

Yep. If last night's oil change doesn't solve it (I'm skeptical), then I have a new clutch pack arriving in a couple days. As long as the steels are good, I'll soak 'em and drop 'em in. Thanks gents! Will advise...

 

[USNSCPO]

Good and bad news. 2nd oil change did nothing. Removed the clutch pack-- toast. 1/2 the fibers are burnt or worn to nothing ON A 5800 MILE BIKE! Damn I hope that doesn't mean the PO hammered the snot out of the engine? My hope is he roasted the clutch by never using 1st gear... No way to know. Steels look good... they are all flat anyway. Hit them with some steel wool and a good wash. Big brown truck delivers my new pack anytime now. Slipper clutch parts to arrive mid to end of June, so that may turn into a winter project?

 

[RaYzerman]

Pretty hard to wear out a clutch in that low miles.... however, maybe it was sticking? Anyway, wow. If steels were blued, I'd say slipping badly, but doesn't sound like it.... kinda odd, but I guess it is what it is.
Did you happen to measure the worn plates for overall thickness? Wear limits are in the service manual...

 

[USNSCPO]

No evidence of overheating the steels. The wear on the fibers is really odd. The first couple and last couple were dark burnt, and really thin on one side. Those in the middle were simply mildly thinner and a bit browner than normal. I've replaced exactly 2 packs in my life. A '90 FZR600 which I hammer hard for many years (never burnt), and an FJ09 (26k miles) when I installed a slipper on it. I've never witnessed fibers being so diverse in their wear as on this particular FJR. Didn't bother measuring the pack, its obvious to me it will be well out of spec. I will measure the new pack before dropping them in. Finally glad to have a root cause.
Cheers!

 

[RaYzerman]

We'll have to chalk that up to weird, because it is...... all good, the fix is on the way.

 

[red]

No evidence of overheating the steels. The wear on the fibers is really odd. The first couple and last couple were dark burnt, and really thin on one side. Those in the middle were simply mildly thinner and a bit browner than normal. I've never witnessed fibers being so diverse in their wear as on this particular FJR. Cheers!

Chris,

The FJR clutch does not get very much oil in normal use. Some FJRs have come from the factory with dry plates. IMHO, it does not help the clutch oiling issue if the rider is often quick-shifting, or shifting without using the clutch at all. I routinely stop at traffic lights or stop signs with the FJR in gear, with the clutch lever pulled, to separate the clutch plates and allow the best of oil flow to the clutch plates then. I consider this practice as a safety issue also, because if I need to evade some distracted fool, I do not want to be trying to find a gear. I want to simply crank the throttle and GO!
My US$.02 worth . . .