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2006 FRJ1300A
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Been a lurker for quite a while awaiting a purchase. Well, the right FJR, at the right price, in the right color, in the right shape became available, so now I'm an owner! A first owner 2006 ABS in dark blue with 5800 miles from an older gent in immaculate shape. This past week I got down to business bringing unknown maintenance up to date. Brake, clutch, and coolant flush, oil/filter change, and TB sync. (The ABS purge was quite easy IMO). Pulled off all the fairings for detailing. Amazingly clean, no damaged wiring, odd farkles, hoses or strangeness found. However, did find a couple of fairing screws in odd places and noticed that a couple of the fairing screws looked to be aftermarket M4s that didn't quite match Yamaha screws. Was a little irritated that the owner had munged up a few of the hex sockets and nearly every plastic rivet had at least one leg bent or broken. Oh, and he torqued the snot out of most of the fairing screws. So I'm on a hunt for both the larger and smaller diameter screws, and a couple of the black ones used in the cockpit fairing, and, oh, say a million of that damned plastic rivets, cause they never last.

Anyhoo, glad to be aboard and hope to run into anyone who tools around Indiana.
 

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Welcome! I am from Kokomo, IN and lived in Indy for 10 years. I had a '06 many moons ago, on a '15 now.
 
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Welcome from NW Indiana ! Where’d you find that 06 ?
 
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2006 FRJ1300A
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
@passx - It popped on Craiglist down in Greenwood. Older gent. I'm struggling with the clutch. It keeps slipping. Even after oil change and clutch bleed, it still slips when I get in it... but only once it warms up. Strange. I guess I'll have to break down and replace the clutch pak. Which is a drag because I've already got the parts ordered to do the slipper clutch (which won't be here until end of May).
 

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You could check the clutch lever bushing and ensure nothing is partially keeping the master cylinder from fully returning. Clutch fluid flush and bleed.
For now, it's only about an hour or so job to pull the clutch plates and clean them. Might be some grimy build-up, and look for notchy clutch basket where the plate tabs ride. Might need to file them smooth if not too bad.
All this until your slipper parts arrive.
 
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I'm struggling with the clutch. It keeps slipping. Even after oil change and clutch bleed, it still slips when I get in it... but only once it warms up. Strange.
Chief,

Welcome aboard! :) Sounds like you got a good deal. Lotsa good people here, so ask around if you hit a snag.

The "friction-modified" (high fuel efficiency) engine oils can cause the clutch to slip, on most bikes. The problem can persist though an oil change or two, but should improve with each oil change. If the PO can say he got the "wrong" oil in there, you might want to clean the clutch plates., or maybe just make some too-soon oil changes, with new oil filters. If the issue diminishes after oil is changed, then it was probably just a "wrong oil" problem. The correct oil specs are in the Owner's Manual, available for free from Yamaha. Click the Download button here:


Some aftermarket clutch levers seem to work, but may prevent the clutch from engaging fully. If you have non-OEM levers, ask the PO if he has the originals, or borrow an OEM clutch lever from somebody to check out that possibility. All that is assuming the clutch has been bled as it should be. I like Speedbleeders.com; they have (and will know) what you would need there.

Keep us posted.
 
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Welcome!

"Oh, and he torqued the snot out of most of the fairing screws." The proper torque is to reef on the fastener just to the point where the threads are about to pull out or the head is about to wring off and leave it there for the next guy. ;)
 
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Proper torque specs are tighten it until it strips, then back off 1/4 turn.......... :devilish:
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Thanks for the tips, Ray et all. Appreciate it. So far, I changed the oil and filter 3 days ago and went for a spin. Seemed all good. Then a day later was out on a ride and it started slipping again. Just finished pulling apart the clutch lever assembly, cleaned it all up with WD40, then relubed with Honda 77. Paid attention to the brass bush that captures the master cylinder pushrod. Zip tied the clutch against the grip, started the bike and let it run till the fan kicked in then revved it some, let it idle, rev some more then shut down. Going for a ride this evening. We'll see. I have a suspicion the original owner, was not well versed in maintenance and care of a bike, and was fond of 2nd gear starts.

With only 5800 miles in 15 years, I'm sure it did a lot of sitting around as well, which you all know is not good for mechanical things.

I'll also mention that I use Rotella T6 15-40. Used in my FJ09 as well. I've got the supplies to one more oil change, if it slips tonight. May as well do one more change to see what happens. I'm loath to dig into the clutch until I'm sure a couple oil changes won't cure it. I just put on some T-Rex crash cages, and they have to come off to get the fairing off. ugh...
 

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IMHO, new oil won't change much...... the clutch only sees oil at the two inboard plates for the most part, the rest of the clutch is lucky to see some oil splash. The plates could be dirty if slipped, mostly on those inner plates. With that little mileage I wouldn't expect to see notching in the clutch basket, so likely good there..... a clutch clean and soak will do ya wonders.
While you have it apart, don't lose the little ball bearing, and put a rag in places where stuff might drop down into the pan... Measure the thickness of the friction plates, that will tell you if it's worn much at all.
Carefully remove the clutch cover and you won't tear the gasket, you can always use a little RTV if you need to. You don't have to drain any oil, but might be easier on the side stand... you will have to loosen right lower fairing (remove screw under the adjustable panel), and remove side plastic panel. Maybe crash bars too if you have them.
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
You are perhaps more right than you know, Ray. I pulled the slave off the side of the engine and oh man was it nasty:
ClutchSlave.jpg


Cleaned it all up and regreased. Just got back from a quick ride to the market and so far so good /thumbsup.
 

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Wow, a little fugly in there.... maybe slave was sticking? I wouldn't have thought so crudded up. Hope that was it!!
 
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Chief,

Here's hoping that the visible dirt was the problem. If you do dis-assemble the crash bars, you will want to use anti-seize compound for the re-assembly. That compound should be the stuff for aluminum-to-steel contact (not all anti-seize is the same; use the right flavor for the job). Those fine-threads like to seize after being in place a while.

The Factory Shop Manual can give you a spec for the total thickness of the whole clutch pack. You may find that info posted on-line. There are several FJR forums to browse, for such knowledge. If the clutch pack is thick enough, wear will not be the problem, but dirt/glaze on the fiber disks may still be a problem.

I would recommend using only brake fluid and soft brushes, nothing else, to clean up on or around the hydraulic cylinders.
 
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Good call, Red. I do have some of the correct anti-seize on the shelf. I was a little leery of using any chemicals on the slave, so I just used a toothbrush and q-tips too get all the crud out. Then put about a dime size worth of grease in there to hold that funky washer in place and it appears to have worked a treat. I'm gonna wait until a do a longer hour+ ride before I'll feel comfortable calling this cured.
Thanks again, folks!
 

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Chris, a couple of things,I’m hoping that the grease you used has no contact with any of the brake fluid seals or the brake fluid itself, very bad for things if so !

Also maybe a picture of the clutch lever itself, I went through all this 2 years ago With The clutch slipping out of the blue after a full service, drove me nuts ! I tried Everything!

Ultimately it was the aftermarket clutch lever that had been on there for years, I put the oe’s back on and it’s been perfect for 2 years now ! I’ve done a complete measure & layout of the aftermarket levers vs the oe’s and I can’t find a difference but if I put the pretty aftermarket ones back on the clutch will slip !

put the oe’s on and you can’t make it slip.
 
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Hey Steve. Ooops. Thanks for the save. I better get the grease outta there. I have a couple other greases available: Moly, red tacky, and lithium. I'm thinking the lithium would be the safest?
 

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The FSM doesn't indicate any grease in the clutch slave area, but a small dab of grease at the end of the clutch rod isn't a terrible idea. What you likely had in there is engine oil from weepage past that clutch rod, see the weep hole.... The rest of it should be dry, i.e., no grease on clutch slave piston or seal.
The later FSM's for Gen3/4 call for silicone grease at the clutch lever, as it resists washing out and is safe for rubber bits. This can be dielectric, high temp brake caliper or silicone tune-up grease.

The metal star shaped plate should keep the slave pushed back, so interested if your cleanup made a big improvement.
 
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
This morning I cleaned out the dino grease I previously put in and replaced it with a light coating of lithium white grease. Today's ride went well, so I'm cautiously optimistic that the issue is resolved. I'd also note that since cleaning out all the old gunk, the lever pull is lighter and easier to modulate take off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Good long ride today so everything heatsoaked and the clutch is still slipping, but only when I really get in it. Tooling around at a sane pace, its ok. Blast. Got a clutch pak on order, but I'm really thinking the issue is in the slave. Although I didn't disassemble it, I think I will, maybe there is some corrosion deep inside that needs addressed. argh.
 

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This morning I cleaned out the dino grease I previously put in and replaced it with a light coating of lithium white grease. Today's ride went well, so I'm cautiously optimistic that the issue is resolved. I'd also note that since cleaning out all the old gunk, the lever pull is lighter and easier to modulate take off.
chris, anything that can or possibly may contact any brake fluid seal needs to be an inert product. Preferably some kind of silicone or just clean brake fluid.
 
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