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Passenger floorboards - Dave (WynPro) sells a set, see post 116 for details, and Dave does quality work. But he's a busy guy....
http://www.fjrforum.com/forum//inde...ker-passenger-floorboardst/page-6#entry708571

As for Goldwing rider pegs, search eBay for sets available from trike conversions. GL1800 2001-2012 or so (not sure if they changed them after that) work, and perhaps some from earlier 1200 models may work, dunno.
I PM him asking if he has any in stock,hope he still makes them old thread. Thank You for the thread link.
Louis
 

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Dave is not making them anytime soon,maybe later, moving to new home too busy with real job right now. I will get some aluminum/ rubber and start cutting,filing and sanding then bolt it to stock rear peg. I found some 2010 GW 1800 front pegs used so I can sand on them to fit front. These pictures and info on this thread sure helped. Thanks to all.
Louis
 

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Well I finally figured out how to get the 1800 Goldwing footpegs to replace my rider pegs. The left side was simple. Had to take off a little meat on the right one to clear the brake pedal. But the end result is super comfortable rider pegs. You do have to file the peg a little to fit the yamaha bracket but it's a very small amount.
Funny but I can pull my old Gold Wing pegs to put on the FJR.:laugh:

So I can copy the angles from the stock FJR pegs.

But what about the springs and making sure the footpegs spring back up?

A little more details on this DIY?

Could you please?
 
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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Jtdunc, if you look close at the pictures I posted they show the stock pin and springs fit just like they do on the stock pegs. And yes they spring back like normal.
 

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@FJRJIMBO

Thanks. Getting my GL1800 pegs tomorrow. Have them on the FJR1300 by the end of the weekend if not sooner.
 
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Well I finally figured out how to get the 1800 Goldwing footpegs to replace my rider pegs. The left side was simple. Had to take off a little meat on the right one to clear the brake pedal. But the end result is super comfortable rider pegs. You do have to file the peg a little to fit the yamaha bracket but it's a very small amount.
Well I finally figured out how to get the 1800 Goldwing footpegs to replace my rider pegs. The left side was simple. Had to take off a little meat on the right one to clear the brake pedal. But the end result is super comfortable rider pegs. You do have to file the peg a little to fit the yamaha bracket but it's a very small amount.
Well I finally figured out how to get the 1800 Goldwing footpegs to replace my rider pegs. The left side was simple. Had to take off a little meat on the right one to clear the brake pedal. But the end result is super comfortable rider pegs. You do have to file the peg a little to fit the yamaha bracket but it's a very small amount.
Old thread, but I just did this for my 08 AE. Since the peg is larger, you less room for a boot the shifter, so I will mostly use the shifter for down shifts and use the hand shift for upshifts (which are lightning fast on the AE!) As other AE owners will attest, it's easy to hit the horn button when hand-downshifting. So if you have a manual clutch and a large foot, you might need to find a longer shifter lever for this peg mod. Two problems came up. I used 2003 GL1800 pegs from ebay. Each ear of the peg mount needs a strong 1mm taken off the side to fit. On the right side, you need to really carve a lot of material off to clear the brake pedal arm and screw head. If you look at FJRJIMBO's third photo up close, you can see he ground clear through the casting and a slit-hole appears. That's right where the brake lever screw still hits - you can see the screwhead indent marks at the slit area. On mine, I kept taking off material until no contact with the brake lever screw and arm at full rear brake. I had to get down to a little hole at that same location. So, did it weaken the pedal? Of course! Is it strong enough? I think it's okay, but I will check it for cracking over time. If I were a heavy dude over 300lbs I'd be a bit leary of this mod. As for the holes, they are in a beefed-up location on the peg, so a slit like FJRJIMBO make be a stress riser and start a crack. A round hole tends to avoid the stress riser effect.
The pivot stoppers on my gl1800pegs are not long enough and pegs over-pivot and hang below horizontal and forward. Not good! I jammed a nylon washer back there to fill the space - the same washer used on co2 tanks, etc. - that was the right thickness to make the pegs level. So I'm not even really done getting this to work. I may end up using the nylon washers and just replacing them when they break down from sunlight.
If anyone is interested, let me know and I'll upload photos of my hacked GL1800 pegs.
 

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One of my first mods...

Automotive tire Bumper Automotive design Gas Automotive exterior

Automotive tire Automotive lighting Hood Automotive design Automotive exterior
 

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2015 FJR-1300ESF
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Has anyone tried the Chinese copy GL1800 footpegs, such as these:


?

I'm skeptical for at least two reasons:

1) they sure look like cheap knockoffs. Would be really awkward if one broke while we were out. Not as big a problem as my (rider) footpeg breaking off, but still a problem.

2) no idea how long they'd take to arrive as they ship from China.

There are used GL1800 rider footpeg sets on eBay, but all are around $90-$100. It would be cheaper to buy new ones. I just priced this at a Honda parts vendor.

I also wonder whether you lose the folding feature on the passenger footpegs with the GL1800 rider pegs. It doesn't look like they have any divots for the ball bearings that act as detents on the stock FJR passenger footpegs.
 

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These pegs pivot no problem but without the indent do not stay up, always down in the use position. If I am riding any distance alone on a trip I just cable tie them up with a single tie. To stop them bouncing I put the spring on them like the fronts.
 

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Yup I can live with the lack of detents. FWIW, eBay says 2-4 weeks delivery for those Chinese footpegs. International shipments are really unpredictable though.
 
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