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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi All,
2005 FJR, solid ABS light.
Changed the brake fluid, cleaned the front and rear sensor.
Battery is charged at 12.86 volts.
Alligator clipped the coupler to diagnose.
Checked the ABS 7.5 amp fuse in the fuse box.
I don't get any pulses or error codes on the LCD.

So my process, in case i've screwed up (which is likely!)
1. Bike on center stand and in neutral.
2. Coupler clipped (skyblue and black wires)
3. Ignition kill switch to off.
4. Turned on key ignition and wait 2 seconds.
5. Hold starter in for approx 3 seconds (counting) and then release whilst simultaneously
6. Holding in Front brake and Rear brake pedal.
I get absolutely nothing.
No pump, no pulse,no click and no read out on screen indicating anything.

Also tried,
1. Ignition killswitch to on
2. Hold in Front brake and Rear brake pedal
3. Key ignition to on
Same result, no feedback, nothing.

Now i'm thinking ok if the ABS pump is cactus, then ok maybe i'll get no pulses etc.
But surely I'd get an error code or something to indicate that, yeah your screwed.

I'm at a loss, can anyone out there help?
Thank you in advance!

Dunc.:crying:
 

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What was happening immediately before you first noticed that the ABS light was on??
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hi Bernie, Normal riding mate.
Nothing out of the usual.
Got on it to head home after work and then voila ABS solid light.

BTW just checked the 30 amp fuse for the ABS motor and all ok there.
Also bled the rear brake again and went through at least five full reservoirs of fluid.
Some discolouration coming out.

Question: does cycling the fluid from the reservoir to the back brake go through the ABS pump?...i.e. is that a good way to loosen things up?
 

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Question: does cycling the fluid from the reservoir to the back brake go through the ABS pump?...i.e. is that a good way to loosen things up?
No, you need to get the pump to run to get fresh fluid into the pump.
 

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If the 30 amp fuse is good, and the ABS pump won't run at all, chances are the relay is not functioning to make the pump run... I think it's called FailSafe Relay, should be near the pump or at least accessible under the right side cover perhaps (admittedly I have not worked on Gen1 ABS).
When running the test, you should hear the relay click back there.... the usual, check connections.
When the pump runs, test sequence started, there should be pulses felt in both the lever and the rear pedal.... chances are the front will pulse, the rear may not as it was the most prone to not function.
 
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Hi All,
2005 FJR, solid ABS light.
Changed the brake fluid, cleaned the front and rear sensor.
Battery is charged at 12.86 volts.
Alligator clipped the coupler to diagnose.
Checked the ABS 7.5 amp fuse in the fuse box.
I don't get any pulses or error codes on the LCD.

So my process, in case i've screwed up (which is likely!)
1. Bike on center stand and in neutral.
2. Coupler clipped (skyblue and black wires)
3. Ignition kill switch to off.
4. Turned on key ignition and wait 2 seconds.
5. Hold starter in for approx 3 seconds (counting) and then release whilst simultaneously
6. Holding in Front brake and Rear brake pedal.
I get absolutely nothing.
No pump, no pulse,no click and no read out on screen indicating anything.

Also tried,
1. Ignition killswitch to on
2. Hold in Front brake and Rear brake pedal
3. Key ignition to on
Same result, no feedback, nothing.

Now i'm thinking ok if the ABS pump is cactus, then ok maybe i'll get no pulses etc.
But surely I'd get an error code or something to indicate that, yeah your screwed.

I'm at a loss, can anyone out there help?
Thank you in advance!

Dunc.:crying:
i had the same thing when the bike is on the center stand the light just comes on just ride it for a minute going like 50kmh will fix it if it hasn't there is another issue
 

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The Method 2 test in my FSM specifically says to hold the starter button for "> 4 seconds". I always count to 6. 3 may not be long enough. https://www.dropbox.com/s/30u7d9l6aoky20q/ABS System Test FJR1300 A.pdf?dl=0. Same with the ignition on/wait. Be patient! Wait 3 seconds.

The first picture below shows the jumper applied at the test coupler. "Sky Blue" to me is misleading. It's light blue with brown dots on my bike. Note the horizontal orientation of the pins in the second pic.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The advice is very much appreciated guys.
I'll run through the process again for the test tonight after work.
From memory I'm not hearing anything from the abs relay at all.
Is there a way to test the relay using a multimeter etc ?
Or should I just throw some cash at a new one?

Given that its probably the OEM, its probably not a bad idea nyway.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Ok.
So got home from work and pulled the ABS relay.
Cleaned the contacts and found a small amount of corrosion on one of the posts.


Cleaned that away with contact cleaner.

Reinstalled the relay
The relay clicks when turning on the ignition key a couple of times as the fjr intialises.
Ensured that the coupler was shorted properly



I had another crack at running the test with method one and method two.
Run the tests....nothing.
No codes no pulses and no further clicks from the relay.
Could this still mean its cactus?
I guess perhaps only part of the relay may be functioning?

A new relay will cost me $139 aud shipped.

I'm tempted to bolt the thing together and just ride it and maybe the abs will come good?
Dammit.
:crying:
 

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That is one expensive relay.... unfortunately a multi-function one... if you're handy and have the wiring diagram from the FSM, perhaps undo the connectors to the ABS motor/solenoids, see if the relay is transferring power on the output side (to the motor). which likely is red and red/white, black being ground. That would help establish the relay is good.
It is odd you don't have the motor/solenoids working on at at all or least the front, but the Gen1 was a different animal.
If the relay is good, and still doesn't function, all connections clean, I don't hold much hope of reviving a hydraulic unit....... in the old days there were those who got faulty solenoid (servos) working, but most had clogged up passages.... if you're ambitious and electrically inclined, you could dive into the hydraulic unit deeper.......
 

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since i never read that you actually have a issue with abs other then the light coming on i would recommend riding it since i had the light too its normal to come on when on the center stand when you ride it it goes away do this before anything else just to make sure else you're wasting your time and money

always try the easy thing first!
 
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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
I've decided to button everything up and take it for a ride and see if the ABS light changes or goes out,
I'll also carefully test the rear brake and try and engage ABS.

If this all fails, my next step is to put the bike back up on the center stand and perhaps pull out the hydraulic unit and see if I can clean this out with brake fluid and compressed air,

Lets see what happens,
 

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Hi All,
2005 FJR, solid ABS light.
Changed the brake fluid, cleaned the front and rear sensor.
Battery is charged at 12.86 volts.
Alligator clipped the coupler to diagnose.
Checked the ABS 7.5 amp fuse in the fuse box.
I don't get any pulses or error codes on the LCD.

So my process, in case i've screwed up (which is likely!)
1. Bike on center stand and in neutral.
2. Coupler clipped (skyblue and black wires)
3. Ignition kill switch to off.
4. Turned on key ignition and wait 2 seconds.
5. Hold starter in for approx 3 seconds (counting) and then release whilst simultaneously
6. Holding in Front brake and Rear brake pedal.
I get absolutely nothing.
No pump, no pulse,no click and no read out on screen indicating anything.

Also tried,
1. Ignition killswitch to on
2. Hold in Front brake and Rear brake pedal
3. Key ignition to on
Same result, no feedback, nothing.

Now i'm thinking ok if the ABS pump is cactus, then ok maybe i'll get no pulses etc.
But surely I'd get an error code or something to indicate that, yeah your screwed.

I'm at a loss, can anyone out there help?
Thank you in advance!

Dunc.:crying:
One thing you may have missed. When you did the ABS flush, did you have the side stand down? If my feeble memory serves me correctly, that is one requirement at least for Gen3 ABS flush.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I've uploaded a video as to how i'm performing the test.
Can you guys let me know if this correct or if I'm screwing this up

 

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Usually use this method, you can skip trying to rotate the rear wheel.

To oversimplify ABS activation method 1 to test the system:
  • verify that the battery voltage is >12.8 volts or this test won't work; charge or replace as necessary
  • put the bike on the center stand, in neutral
  • with the ignition key off, remove the cap and jump the ABS Diagnostic connector's Sky Blue wire to the Black wire
  • find a friend, offspring or wife to help, with the bike on the center stand ---->
  • simultaneously hold both the front and rear brakes on
  • turn on the key
  • when the ABS warning light flashes there will be one pulse felt in the front brake lever and then two pulses at the rear brake pedal
  • your helper will try to rotate the rear wheel; it should rotate for 0.1 seconds then stop, then rotate again 0.1 seconds on the second pulse
  • turn the ignition switch off
  • remove the jumper

Alternate method..
To oversimplify ABS activation method 2 to test the hydraulic system:
  • verify that the battery voltage is >12.8 volts or this test won't work; charge or replace as necessary
  • put the bike on the center stand, in neutral
  • with the ignition key off, jump the ABS Diagnostic connector's Sky Blue wire to the Black wire
  • turn the red Run/Stop switch to OFF
  • turn the ignition key on and wait for 2 seconds
  • now press and hold the Starter button for >4 seconds, the engine will not start; release the Starter button
  • simultaneously operate both the front and rear brakes
  • 0.5 seconds later the front brake lever will pulse twice; then the rear brake pedal will pulse twice; after the brake pedal stops pulsing, 0.5 seconds later the bake lever will again start pulsating and continue for ~2 seconds.
  • turn the ignition switch off
  • remove the jumper
  • set the Run/Stop switch back to Run

Try both....... let us know.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Both methods tried...no results
When initially turning on the ignition key, the bike intialises, cluster lights (neutral lit, ABS light is already solid,) fuel pump primes, I can hear some clicking from the ABS relay (just like the film clip).
and that's it.
No noises, clicking, codes or anything to acknowledge that a test is being run.
 

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I've decided to button everything up and take it for a ride and see if the ABS light changes or goes out,
I'll also carefully test the rear brake and try and engage ABS.

If this all fails, my next step is to put the bike back up on the center stand and perhaps pull out the hydraulic unit and see if I can clean this out with brake fluid and compressed air,

Lets see what happens,
You have a faulty ABS hydraulic unit... if it won't run the test, it's got issues, either solenoids or motor... some had solenoid issues on Gen1. I suggest a replacement unit if there's used ones around, you have nothing to lose, yours is likely a brick. The "neglected" ABS fluid circuit may be clogged from lack of flushing, but without the system performing the test, you have no idea.
You could pull your unit or check condition of solenoids or motor somehow via forensic analysis, either with or without a replacement unit in hand, or do nothing and have no ABS... regular brakes only. Suggest you take some time to figure out your next move.

Still could be the relay.... if one could figure out the wiring diagram and put power to the ABS unit directly, one could determine if it will cycle while the relay is out of the picture. Sorry, I haven't worked on Gen1 ABS, might be able to find old threads from way back if you're lucky. I'd say get a new relay except it's an expensive one, maybe you'll stumble on a used one?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Cheers for all the advice.
I've ordered a 2nd hand relay from a wrecker on ebay for 50 bucks delivered.
I figured it was going to be the easiest option at this stage for a quick fix if it works.
If not I'll opt to try and remove the abs and go on that adventure!

I was getting pretty frustrated but then i thought well if i need to remove the ABS and then go from there it'll be a learning opportunity at the least.
 

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Great. Try the relay swap and let us know how it goes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
Ok relay swapped with 2nd hand part and still the same deal.

So I've started testing wiring as per the factory service manual.
I sat and thought about a few things...I'm not getting any diagnostic test at all so i figured well could be the abs ECU and so I've conducted some testing there with a multi-meter.
I got to a section where you're testing the delete function on the ABS ECU.
Anything is worth a try!



Now when run test number 7:
Start switch on: LESS then 1V - I get 0.06 so all good there.
Start switch off: More than 12V - I get 10.2 to 10.6V on numerous tests.

Out of specification -> Replace the handlebar switch.

This could be the reason why I'm not getting any diagnostic test out of this bike...if the start switch isn't functioning perhaps it's not triggering the ABS ECU to try and run the test properly?

Would an after market universal start switch (with kill switch built in of course) suit to rectify this or would I have to go for a genuine yamaha part?

Would a start switch from an XJR1300 be ok to use?...they look the same as an FJR1300.

Thanks in advance guys. :grin2:

Dunc
 
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