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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
I used the HG's as well on my '04 FJR.


The other, "now defunct" FJR web site did have a member post directions on re-keying the tumbler. That link is long gone but it's pretty easy to do..


BTW, I was Deals Gap store (back in 2004) and saw the locks in a clear bag (on display). I poked a hole in the bag, and my FJR key went into the tumbler (didn't turn of course but same style key). Grabbed it.


Made up the Gen 1 brackets for my bike, later my friend had an '07 and I made them up for him..(all non ES bikes currently)


Now the ES, I've NEVER touched one but designed the current bracket with the help of an FJR owner across the country-Back and forth with idea's/designs untill we came up with a keeper..
 

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I used the HG's as well on my '04 FJR.

The other, "now defunct" FJR web site did have a member post directions on re-keying the tumbler. That link is long gone but it's pretty easy to do..
Harald's thread can still be found but the pictures aren't there. I've PM'd him asking if he still has them. If so, I'll make a pdf of the thread, put it in my dropbox acct and link to it here in this thread.
 

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So roughly $50 for the lock, $25 - $35 for the bracket and the cost of re-keying the lock to ignition key (if desired/needed). $100 - $125 after the smoke clears.

I have been using a Kryptonite U lock and locking my helmet to my rack. That seems to work for me. I've never used one of these style locks before. I always figured a thief could simply cut the chin strap loop(s) and get away with a $600 helmet?
 

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So roughly $50 for the lock, $25 - $35 for the bracket and the cost of re-keying the lock to ignition key (if desired/needed). $100 - $125 after the smoke clears.

I have been using a Kryptonite U lock and locking my helmet to my rack. That seems to work for me. I've never used one of these style locks before. I always figured a thief could simply cut the chin strap loop(s) and get away with a $600 helmet?
1) Re-keying cost s $0 and takes about 5 minutes per lock so subtract that;
2) For me it's also the convenience of not having a second (or third counting GIVI) key;
3) Also for me the convenience of having a permanent installation so there's one or two (lock or lock + cable like some use) fewer things to keep up with in my saddle bag or top case;
4) In all my years and all my miles I have never lost a helmet due to theft & I've been using this style lock since the early 1980's. If I were that fearful I surely would carry it with me or lock it out of sight in the trunk;
5) Plus I'm lucky enough to have a $280 shaped head.

I guess what strikes me here is that someone who will spend $600+ for a helmet is complaining about the cost of an installed lock. Too funny!! Isn't it ironical?

Look, I'm not trying to convince anyone of anything here and I certainly won't piss on your post b/c it sounds silly. Oh no, not me, I have manners!! I'm just stating what works for me and offer general knowledge to folks who aren't familiar. YMMV of course.
 

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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
Actually, Yamaha's been using that lock assembly since at least the early 1970's.


With the tab, you kill two birds with one stone in that you have a helmet lock AND a BMW style electrical outlet. Use it for battery charging, portable air compressor, heated clothing, etc....


HG's have been around for decades as well...
 

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If you get Scott's brackets, you'll automatically gain $75 in cool factor alone!!! :laugh::nerd:
 
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4) In all my years and all my miles I have never lost a helmet due to theft . . .
5) Plus I'm lucky enough to have a $280 shaped head.
I have: El Paso, TX, 1982.

I wish I had a $280 shaped head. The only thing I have found that really fits me is a $600 Arai Signet-Q.
 

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1) Re-keying cost s $0 and takes about 5 minutes per lock so subtract that;
2) For me it's also the convenience of not having a second (or third counting GIVI) key;
3) Also for me the convenience of having a permanent installation so there's one or two (lock or lock + cable like some use) fewer things to keep up with in my saddle bag or top case;
4) In all my years and all my miles I have never lost a helmet due to theft & I've been using this style lock since the early 1980's. If I were that fearful I surely would carry it with me or lock it out of sight in the trunk;
5) Plus I'm lucky enough to have a $280 shaped head.

I guess what strikes me here is that someone who will spend $600+ for a helmet is complaining about the cost of an installed lock. Too funny!! Isn't it ironical?

Look, I'm not trying to convince anyone of anything here and I certainly won't piss on your post b/c it sounds silly. Oh no, not me, I have manners!! I'm just stating what works for me and offer general knowledge to folks who aren't familiar. YMMV of course.
My sincerest apologies to you and the op. I was certainly not by any means trying to "piss on" anyone's post. Nor was I complaining about price, rather trying to get an accurate cost of total setup. I do find this type of lock convenient but still do have some concerns about theft, as I have fallen victim to thievery. And yes, I prefer a nicer helmet and would like it to remain mine. I'm a realist... there are scumbag thieves out there.

In my attempt to be objective (pros & cons) and hoping others might chime in, I apparently ruffled feathers, and this was not my intention. I apologize.
 

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Discussion Starter · #49 ·
No apologies expected here... All's good!
 

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Ordered and received a very high quality power coated helmet lock bracket that perfectly blends into my 2005 FJR's lines. The Yamaha lock was a simple single bolt install.

Love the fact that it was designed for riders with heated gear needs with a hole for a Warm & Safe DC coaxial panel mount jack.

All matches the Townsend helmet bracket on my right/brake side installed by the previous owner of my 2005.:laugh:

So factory looking.

Now . . . . have to figure out how to route the heated gear wiring harness male plug down to the wired female end of the W&S plug.
 

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Discussion Starter · #52 · (Edited)
.
Now . . . . have to figure out how to route the heated gear wiring harness male plug down to the wired female end of the W&S plug.
I'm not quite sure what needs wiring..
The BMW style outlet (shown in your picture) should be wired in to the battery/fuse box.

Are you wanting to wire / attach that other outlet (3rd picture) into the bracket?

BTW, the RS helmet lock IS my bracket for the Gen I (either side)..

.
 

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I'm not quite sure what needs wiring..
The BMW style outlet (shown in your picture) should be wired in to the battery/fuse box.

Are you wanting to wire / attach that other outlet (3rd picture) into the bracket?

BTW, the RS helmet lock IS my bracket for the Gen I (either side)..

.
UPDATE: Took off the lower panels under the seat on the left/clutch side. Wrapped DC coaxial battery power harness in a wire loom and heat shield fabric tubing.

Then routed the power wiring from the switched relayed fuse block under my seat down and around the outside of the air filter housing and back to Townsend's lock/power bracket. Then connect the power harness plug from the battery to the Warm & Safe DC coaxial panel power mount.

Only powers up with key turned on. But you could run straight from your battery. I just picked up the power from my fuse block>:)
 

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Discussion Starter · #57 ·
Just to clarify, Yamaha and HG make very similar lock assemblies(looking at them).

Both, depending on the part, have one of two different style key OFF SETS..

If you want to use your FJR ignition key and RE-KEY the assembly, you need THAT part #..

You may order another similar lock assembly, but it's a 50/50 shot you'll get the correct assembly (off-set)..



 

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Additonal pictures

As requested, some pictures of helmets securred to the lock assemblies. Pic's are of both an 2007 model and 2013 model. Brackets install at the same place on both bikes:

Please click on the image for a close up view.

Thanks Scott







contacted Scott and bought the bracket and lock from the Reveille site. I'm mechanically challenged so Scott sent me additional pictures and it literally took 10 mins to install. It took me longer to get the side panel off/back on than to install and it looks great.

Thanks Scott!
 
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