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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Gen 3 STS Smart Turn Signal Installation

There are a large number of these threads but I thought I would create one specifically for the Gen 3.

I'm at the stage where I've found a location for the STS box, ground wire (battery terminal), and switched positive (fuse tap on hazard fuse). Now the hard part, finding the 3 wires I need to cut. I believe (because the instructions say so) the wires are dark green, brown, and light brown/white. If you've looked under the windshield (which is where everybody agrees is where you want to tap into wires) you know there are a ton of wires and connection boxes there. My strategy was just to pull back wire until I found the proper colored ones. However nowhere did I see those 3 colors. It turns out that there is no one set of colored wires that fit all models of Yamahas.

So, I asked STS support and they said that instead of green use white/yellow, instead of brown/white use blue/red, and substitute Chocolate with white/black. (Note these are the motorcycle wire colors, not the STS unit wire colors.) (This was confirmed by Rayzerman and FjrjrF below.)

You can go checking all the many connectors for these colors but some of these are very difficult to pull apart. Fortunately, in another thread, RaYzerman had shown a photo of his install and if you look carefully you can see the connector he worked with. Further, Bryan Glynn of TwoWheelObsession has a video on how he would go about doing this job and he shows very clearly he is opening the same connector that RaYzerman worked with. Good enough for me.

Here's the connector:

 
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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
Here is where I plan on putting the STS box:

https://www.fjrowners.com/forums/10-fjr-farkling-ii/129130-st2-self-cancel-turn-signal.html

Post number 17.

I borrowed that idea from RERJr, although I am not sure that he actually went ahead and mounted his there. There's no way to zip tie it so I will have to use double-sided tape. I'll also have to run the wires toward the back and then loop them around and up.

If this doesn't work, I may just extend the wires to the glove box and run them up from the hole in the bottom and attach the box to the inside bottom (or maybe outside bottom would work).
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Okay, I split the black 10 pin connector and then pulled back the black protective sheath on the right side of it. There are nine wires with these colors.

blue/red
white/yellow
brown/blue
white/black
green/blue
yellow/black
orange/white
white/blue
black/white
 

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10-way connector 2013-15, then I think '16 went to a 13-way. Wire colours below, had to go back into some notes I made at the time. You can check the wires with a multimeter.....

Turn signal power Blu / Red
Left signal circuit Wht / Blk
Right signal Circuit Wht / Yel
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Perfect. This agrees with Bryan Glynn, except he says white/brown instead of white/black. Since there IS no white/brown I think he made a mistake or couldn't see properly.

With a multimeter, I'll see voltage between the pin and ground when I turn on the left and right signals? What about the "power" or what STS calls the "signal" wire? Will I see voltage there when both (either) left or right is selected? Or am I just checking for continuity between the handlebar switch and the same colored wires at the connector?
 

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If one wanted to do this on a gen 3 version ('13-'15) with a connector by-pass as noted in an earlier thread on the other forum, then Eastern Beaver sells this exact connector male and female. I bought the L version and possible wire it up this weekend. Half-way down the page is the 10 wire connector.

http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Connectors/Sealed/TS025/ts025.html

It is what Ray stated earlier. The way I will configure it in that bundle, remember you have to intercept 3 of the path of wires in that bundle. This is my opinion from the service manual wiring diagram and what I see in the 10 wire connector. DO NOT confuse the black/white wire with the white/black wire in the bundle. REMEMBER: the color goes as: wire color/stripe color

From the handlebar:
STS purple to white/black from handlebar
STS brown to Blue/Red from handlebar
STS white to white/yellow from handlebar

To the turn signals:
STS yellow to white/yellow to signal
STS blue to blue/red to signal
STS green to white/black to signal
 

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Good info, I could not find the 10-way connectors when I was doing it. If you have a 13-way, it appears EB has that one too.
I suppose if I was ambitious, I'd re-do mine with the proper connectors, but it is totally fine the way it is.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Okay, I got the electrical done and got the flash I was looking for. On to the switch part.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Here are some photos:

















Below: The hazard fuse is at the bottom of the pic.



 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
Note, after you plug in the Add-a-fuse put one lead of your multimeter on the other end of the wire and the other lead on the negative terminal of the battery and then switch on. If you don't see 12 volts then turn the Add-a-fuse the other direction.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
Started in on the switch and wouldn't you know it it is different from any other switch I've seen in videos.

I have tried to push the inserts to the left and right side of the switch lever and they won't stay in.

To anybody who has done a 2014, do you remember how you got this to work?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
I went and looked. You put them in the two slots that are at right angles to the black plastic piece where the wires are inserted? I don't see the inserts in your photo.

I just now dropped them in but am not sure yet if they are working.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I think I am probably good. I retested by turning on each side and trying to cancel -- they wouldn't. I could only cancel them by pressing to the same side again. I think that is the way they are supposed to work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
Okay, some more photos:

Top of the inner signal switch housing (white plastic assembly). Note the upper screw tab (screw removed). It is sitting below the tab from the cruise control switch. You have to shove the cruise control button back into the housing and then tilt both of those assemblies up at the same time to be able to slide the switch housing toward you and then flip it over.



Side of the switch housing (facing rider) where the lever is located. I was trying to insert the blocks in here similarly to what videos of other bikes show.



Bottom of the switch housing. This is where you place the inserts. Just drop them in the two slots. Here, mine are in farther than I recommend. Leave them right at the top of the slots.



Below: make sure the plastic pin goes back into the corresponding hole on the bottom of the handlebar and that the rectangular projection (seen here at the bottom of the photo) goes toward the center of the bike.

 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I took a test ride and the left side works as designed but the right side won't come on unless I press cancel first. So I'm going to have to open up the switch housing and remove the switch again to see if I see anything wrong.
 

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They should time out after about 20 seconds or so, that is, to prevent you riding down the road with your signal inadvertently on.
As for the foam pieces, some find they are a little stiff, which you will only know if it's all back together. If so, you can take a very small drill and drill a hole in them. Start small, you can make the hole bigger but not smaller. You can also trim some off to make them shorter, again, wee bit at a time.... trial and error.
I thought they would fall out too, but they don't seem to.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 · (Edited)
Here are my tips on the switch assembly.

1) Remove the two screws that go in from the bottom (Note the shorter one goes in the front hole.)

2) Remove the grip heater tube that is inserted into the bottom of the switch housing molding. Careful, the rubber is easily damaged.

3) The bottom half of the housing is held to the handlebars with a metal clamp on top, a plastic clamp on bottom, and two screws which go from the top, through both clamp halves and then into the bottom housing. It might be a good idea to use a marker to indicate on the metal half which way is forward.

4) There are two small screws holding the inner switch housing to the bottom half of the outer switch housing. Remove these but note the housing for the round black button for the cruise control sits on top of the inner switch housing tab. You have to push the cruise control switch into the housing and then tilt both assemblies up and then you can slide the signal switch housing toward you and flip it over. I recommend you use the shorter inserts and just glue them to the side of the switch housing to hold them in place. Don't push them far into the slots.

5) Let the glue dry and then you can test. Turn on the ignition, and press the switch button left or right. When you press the button in to cancel, the signals should stay on. To get them off press to the side again.

6) Now, reverse the disassembly and you should be good to go.
 

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Sounds like you got it. The pictures look right to me. Sorry it took me so long to answer you, but it appears you got it. FYI - I struggled with this one part of the install much longer than I should have. I kept over thinking it, for some reason I thought the rubber spacer were to stop an electrical connection, where in reality it is a physical stop.

I also wanted to mentioned that I used double sided tape when I first installed mine. The sensitivity I found out later was compromised and under the advice of the manufacturer, I removed it
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I used double-sided tape too, but a bit thinner type. It seems to be working okay. The problem I'm having is something to do with the inserts. I'll open the switch housing again today and see if anything looks amiss.
 
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