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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello All,
I have a 2006FJR1300A with 60.000km (37.000miles). I bought it second hand.
The bike was checked before the purchase and the front fork seals were shot.

New seals were ordered and the forks were taken a part. It was discovered that both of the metal sliders also needed to be replaced. Please check the pictures below. Is this a common problem?
Hood Automotive exhaust Bumper Motor vehicle Automotive tire Wood Finger Thumb Gas Jewellery

The part numbers are as below; 2 sets of each (2 forks right).
3P62313500
4SV23135100
4SV23125100

I would like to read/hear if there are other FJR riders with this issue? If you know of any distribuotrs in UK or Europe stocking it please also send me a note.

I would be using it for touring mostly asphalt as it is made for. Also any reccomandations for the fork springs?

Regards

Burak
 

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I have rebuilt many FJR forks.... you remove the seals by slide hammering out the bushings.... there is no way to avoid damage to the lower and middle bushings and they must be replaced. You may get lucky the upper bushing remains OK, as it usually does not wear.

At approximately 30k miles, the lower bushing will be showing wear. You can go longer, but time to refresh the fork oil anyway as it is contaminated with superfine aluminum particles that have worn off the lower fork tube (by the lower bushing).

The forks are undersprung for most riders. If you keep the originals, crank the preload down all the way. I'm not sure in EU who are the aftermarket spring suppliers are locally. In North America we have Traxxion who sells a plug and play kit, RaceTech, Sonic as the main ones.
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I have rebuilt many FJR forks.... you remove the seals by slide hammering out the bushings.... there is no way to avoid damage to the lower and middle bushings and they must be replaced. You may get lucky the upper bushing remains OK, as it usually does not wear.

At approximately 30k miles, the lower bushing will be showing wear. You can go longer, but time to refresh the fork oil anyway as it is contaminated with superfine aluminum particles that have worn off the lower fork tube (by the lower bushing).

The forks are undersprung for most riders. If you keep the originals, crank the preload down all the way. I'm not sure in EU who are the aftermarket spring suppliers are locally. In North America we have Traxxion who sells a plug and play kit, RaceTech, Sonic as the main ones.
Thanks for the details.
I have ordered all of the parts from www.megazip.net. It will take 1 or 2 weeks to arrive.
I will try to source some springs as well. I have used springs from Wilbers (germany) and Hyperpro (Dutch?).
I will post the results.
 

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I have rebuilt many FJR forks.... you remove the seals by slide hammering out the bushings.... there is no way to avoid damage to the lower and middle bushings and they must be replaced. You may get lucky the upper bushing remains OK, as it usually does not wear.

At approximately 30k miles, the lower bushing will be showing wear. You can go longer, but time to refresh the fork oil anyway as it is contaminated with superfine aluminum particles that have worn off the lower fork tube (by the lower bushing).

The forks are undersprung for most riders. If you keep the originals, crank the preload down all the way. I'm not sure in EU who are the aftermarket spring suppliers are locally. In North America we have Traxxion who sells a plug and play kit, RaceTech, Sonic as the main ones.

Hi RaYzerman,

I am about to rebuild / re-spring my forks. I ordered a seal kit ( Part# 4SV-W003B-00-00) but I do not see any parts called upper / lower bushings on the fork parts diagram. Can you point out the part number from this diagram? Thx.



Steve in Katy, TX
 

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2014 FJR-A
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007,
In the parts diagram you linked, the "bushings" you are looking for are items 3 / 24 Piston Front Fork, 5 / 26 Metal Slide 1, and 6 / 27 Metal Slide 2.

You will need 2 of each to do both fork legs, in addition to the seal kit. Incidentally, those parts can be had less expensively elsewhere, I usually go to PartShark. There are other choices also.
2016 Yamaha FJR1300A (FJR13AG) Front Fork | Part Shark

A tool to drive the middle bushing can be made from a 2" exhaust extension. That can be long enough to use a hammer to drive the middle bushing, or it can be shorter and use it like a slide hammer. It's not very difficult to drive the middle bushing.

Some do not install the middle bushing 6 / 27, including some shops who are highly regarded by others.

dan

Never hesitate to ride past the last streetlight at the edge of town. -- Unknown
 

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What Dan says!!
 
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One caution when disassembling the forks.
There have been several reports of breakage on the forum in the last year or so, when removing the bolt in the bottom of the fork leg (12 / 33) that retains the cartridge, and allows the fork tube and lower leg to be separated.
That bolt screws into the compression valve body at the bottom of the cartridge. That valve body has a rather skinny neck and several have been sheared off when using an impact wrench to remove the bolt. Most don't have that problem, but some have.
That compression valve body cannot be bought separately from Yamaha, the whole cartridge has to be purchased.
Another solution would be a replacement compression valve kit from RaceTech or some of the other suspension shops.
That would get a custom shim stack that would probably get better suspension action. YMMV !!

Ray's advice has been to use a cartridge holding tool and remove the bolt with a hand ratchet. I'll agree with Ray.


dan,


I worry that the person who thought up Muzak may be thinking up something else. - Lily Tomlin
 

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@Burak

Burak, let me know how your fork rebuild goes. I am doing the same thing just a few weeks after you do yours. I am re-springing using Hyperpro progressive springs. Also upgrading the rear shock to a Hyperpro 460.
 

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@RaYzerman

I have been reading about the damper rod disassembly and the problems with removing the 8mm hex bolt on the bottom of the fork. Maybe I don't fully understand the problem, but would a ratchet, a long socket extension and a 26m socket allow me to hold the damper rod assembly nut stationary while removing the 8mm hex bolt?
 

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You need to weld the socket to a pipe. The rod needs to pass through the "extension"
 

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You might possibly be able to remove the 8mm socket bolt from the bottom of the fork leg with a ratchet if you keep the fork leg assembled and apply pressure against the spring by compressing the fork leg. Give the ratchet a sharp twist.
If that doesn't work, then remove the fork leg cap and spring and bottom spring seat and use that 26mm socket on a pipe to hold the hex at the top of the damper cartridge. One hint that I read is to get a 26mm socket that is 3/4" drive and a 3/4" square tube, no welding required.

OR, you need one of RaYzerman's patented square tube damper holders, just ask Ray !!

Removing that 8mm socket bolt with the fork leg still assembled is where most use an impact gun, and most don't have problems with that. But several have twisted the neck off the compression valve body at the bottom of the damper cartridge recently using an impact gun. If that happens, a new damper cartridge can be had from Yamaha for around $120, (except for the 2013 -- 2015 model years where that damper cartridge isn't available).


Dan



When will all the rhetorical questions end? -- George Carlin
 

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Make a cheap damper holder from thin wall 1" square tube, no welding required.... on one end, hacksaw up the corners approx. 1/2" or more, this leaves you 4 tabs. Cut two off that are opposite each other, bend the other two outward on an angle until the opening is at least 27-28+ mm. Now you have a tapered socket to fit over two opposite flats of the 26mm brass nut on the top of the cartridge body.

Drill a hole in the other end to stick a screwdriver through as a handle or just use your vice grips..................

For the record, I USED TO use a high speed impact to remove the bolt while the preload was cranked down.... after reading recent accounts of breakage, I've stopped doing that and use my handy dandy cartridge holding tool.
 
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You need to weld the socket to a pipe. The rod needs to pass through the "extension"

Makes perfect sense. Thanks for the clarification. I don't have any welding skills so I think I will try RaYzerman's recommendation with the 1" square tube. Just waiting on parts now.
 

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Makes perfect sense. Thanks for the clarification. I don't have any welding skills so I think I will try RaYzerman's recommendation with the 1" square tube. Just waiting on parts now.
His way sounds like a lot of work - if you own a welder ;)

Honestly I use my 1200 ft lb impact to take forks apart - just a quick zip on the trigger. But I don't hit the bolt with the impact until the fork is pretty much all apart. Been lucky so far I guess, FJR is the first bike I ever heard of potentially ripping the valve off.
 

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When I have the forks completely disassembled, what can I use to clean them thoroughly? Brake cleaner?
 

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I use Wallymart brake cleaner followed by an ispropanol rinse for the cartridges....
 
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