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11 Posts
bolt will not come out bottom fork
front fork bottom bolt stuck
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Joined
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11 Posts
2006
Oof.... That bolt holds in the inner cylinder... I think you will have to get a tool to hold that cylinder from the top, and after soaking that bottom bolt with PB Blaster gently work it loose...
What happened is you had little preload on the spring, so after you loosened the bolt, the cartridge is now spinning inside the fork. You have two choices........
1. put the fork in a vice, horizontal. With fork cap installed, crank in the spring preload all the way and try to remove the bolt (likely won't work). If not successful, have you or a helper put a piece of plywood against your chest and do your best to compress the fork some more and the other person remove the bolt..... note, best remove the damping adjuster knobs to avoid breakage....
2. make a cartridge holding tool for the 26mm nut on top of the cartridge. Get a piece of 1" thin wall square tubing 18" or longer. Slit up the corners about 1/2" or so with a hacksaw, this leaves you with 4 'tabs'. Remove two opposite tabs, then bend the remaining two equally out on an angle to approx. 30mm opening. Remove burrs, etc. Now remove upper fork cap, spacer, washer and spring. Insert your new fork cartridge holding tool over the 26mm nut on top of the cartridge. Hold the tool while removing the bolt.
1. put the fork in a vice, horizontal. With fork cap installed, crank in the spring preload all the way and try to remove the bolt (likely won't work). If not successful, have you or a helper put a piece of plywood against your chest and do your best to compress the fork some more and the other person remove the bolt..... note, best remove the damping adjuster knobs to avoid breakage....
2. make a cartridge holding tool for the 26mm nut on top of the cartridge. Get a piece of 1" thin wall square tubing 18" or longer. Slit up the corners about 1/2" or so with a hacksaw, this leaves you with 4 'tabs'. Remove two opposite tabs, then bend the remaining two equally out on an angle to approx. 30mm opening. Remove burrs, etc. Now remove upper fork cap, spacer, washer and spring. Insert your new fork cartridge holding tool over the 26mm nut on top of the cartridge. Hold the tool while removing the bolt.
Ray FTW!!
I should have added...... for Gen1, there is a brass washer pressed on to the 26mm cartridge nut (to act as a spring seat). One must find suitable heavy wire or rod bent such that you can hook this brass washer off before you can use a cartridge tool.
Also, this job sounds like bushing and seal replacement upcoming.... be sure to heat the upper part of the fork tube (very hot to touch) before attempting to slide-hammer the bushings/seal out. Also optional for later installing bushings, you can leave the middle bushing out.
Also, this job sounds like bushing and seal replacement upcoming.... be sure to heat the upper part of the fork tube (very hot to touch) before attempting to slide-hammer the bushings/seal out. Also optional for later installing bushings, you can leave the middle bushing out.
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186 Posts
I've done this many times. That bottom bolt always wants to spin without coming out. A special tool is required, and unfortunately that special tool is different for every bike so I refuse to buy one or make one.
An easier method that has been successful for me every time is to simply use an impact gun. It should come out first try, every time. Put some pressure on the fork tube assembly so there is some downward force on the tube, then hit it once with the impact. The bolt will spin all the way out. If for some reason it doesn't come right out, apply more force on the tubes and hit it again. As with anything, don't go ham on it. Should work right away.
An easier method that has been successful for me every time is to simply use an impact gun. It should come out first try, every time. Put some pressure on the fork tube assembly so there is some downward force on the tube, then hit it once with the impact. The bolt will spin all the way out. If for some reason it doesn't come right out, apply more force on the tubes and hit it again. As with anything, don't go ham on it. Should work right away.
Impact has always been my go-to, as well. It may take a few blips. The theory is to spin the bolt before the cartridge starts to spin. An impact gun is the only thing that can do that.
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291 Posts
There have been several cases in the last couple of years of breaking the neck off of the compression valve on the bottom of the cartridge by using an impact gun. The cartridge for the 2013 -- 2015 models, with new compression valve installed, is no longer available from Yamaha. The same may now be true for earlier model forks. The solutions for breaking the neck off the compression valve are pricy.
Using a cartridge holding tool, as Ray suggests, is a much safer method to prevent costly and time-consuming replacement options.
Scroll down the page for some other threads related to fork disassembly disasters or use the search function at the top of the page.
dan
YMMV
Using a cartridge holding tool, as Ray suggests, is a much safer method to prevent costly and time-consuming replacement options.
Scroll down the page for some other threads related to fork disassembly disasters or use the search function at the top of the page.
dan
YMMV
Use the impact for removal only. It has always worked for me. I would recommend a fast spinning 3/8 impact over the Big Berha 1/2 lug nut impact. The speed coupled with the light impact should overcome the cartridges tendency to spin. Definitely pre-load the cartridge to minimize the spin and give it a short burst with the impact.
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11 Posts
that worked thanks for your tip
I am definitely going to get some tubing and make a cartridge holding tool. That is a great tip! Thanks!
With the impact, the speed is the advantage... you do not use it to install the bolt!!! only remove it. You can break it loose first.... doesn't matter what torque setting.....
We had a couple post here that even dealers broke the compression valve, dunno what they were doing..... but best not risk it. I'd just loosen the bolt, then use the cartridge tool, it takes no effort at all.
We had a couple post here that even dealers broke the compression valve, dunno what they were doing..... but best not risk it. I'd just loosen the bolt, then use the cartridge tool, it takes no effort at all.
Had the same issue on my FZ-07.
I clamped the shock upside down in my Black & Decker workmate table, then attached a ratchet strap like you use for trailering and looped it over the top end of the shock and ratcheted it down as far as I could to compress the fork so there is spring pressure on the part that is spinning.
It held it in place while I unscrewed the bolt.
VOILA!! Out came the bolt!
Sent from my SM-G990U2 using Tapatalk
I clamped the shock upside down in my Black & Decker workmate table, then attached a ratchet strap like you use for trailering and looped it over the top end of the shock and ratcheted it down as far as I could to compress the fork so there is spring pressure on the part that is spinning.
It held it in place while I unscrewed the bolt.
VOILA!! Out came the bolt!
Sent from my SM-G990U2 using Tapatalk
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