[Wess]

Anybody remember the brake rotor, pad & hose GB from... a while ago?
Well, the weather is finally bad enough to make me willing to lay the bike up & do the work. My wife said it's more a fear of putting it off until the weather gets bad (I love global warming, no snow to speak of this year), only to find it's now spring, and far too nice to think about taking the bike apart. Either way, I'm thinking of doing the work this weekend.
I'm a fair hand with a wrench, and can RTFM (Read The Fjr Manual (what were you thinking it meant? ) :lol: ) as well as most, so I'm not too worried about the skills needed, even if it takes a bit of extra time.
I would however like to learn from the experience of others. Any hints, tips, or tricks would be appreciated.
Are any consumables (beyond cotter pins, fluids & greases) needed?
Thanks

 

[number2]

I'm not sure what you're asking for, but I have changed brake lines and pads on my bike and it's very straight forward and simple. The most difficult part is bleeding the brakes but once you've learned the trick it's easy.

 

[Wess]

That's pretty much what I expected. I just wanted to check before I got into it.

 

[rickysnickers]

The biggest thing, in my opinion, is to buy the proper set off flare nut wrenches. By using them, you won't round off the head of the banjo bolts.

Rick

 

[Rabbit1300]

You may have to heat the rotor bolt heads to break the threadlocker seal.

Use a breaker bar and ensure that the allen head socket is firmly in the bolt head - clean the bolt head out first. Tighten them evenly in a criss cross pattern, tight-ish then tighter, then torque to the correct value to avoid warping the new rotor. (I think that is in TFM....)

MightyVac brake bleeder (or similar) can take a lot out of bleeding the new hoses.