FJR Owners Forum banner
  • Hey Everyone! Enter your bike HERE to be a part of this months Bike of the Month Challenge!
41 - 59 of 59 Posts

·
Premium Member
Versys 1000, VFR800
Joined
·
11,077 Posts
Why put jack stands with the inherent risk of them slipping off... use them as backup only.....
fjrlee's blocks are fine...... if the front end weighs 100 lbs. while on the centerstand that's a whopping 25 lbs. each on the header pipes.... easily handled.
 
  • Like
Reactions: DesertBike

·
Registered
2015 FJR-1300ESF
Joined
·
327 Posts
Those numbers sound like pure guesswork.

It might be interesting to get a bathroom scale under the front tire and find an actual value.

I'll end up either learning something, or breaking my bathroom scale.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
474 Posts
Those numbers sound like pure guesswork.

It might be interesting to get a bathroom scale under the front tire and find an actual value.

I'll end up either learning something, or breaking my bathroom scale.
Not often but every now again the memory still works.

 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,638 Posts
I think I just mentioned this elsewhere... if you have crash bars use some jack stands under then for added security.
 
  • Like
Reactions: DesertBike

·
Premium Member
Versys 1000, VFR800
Joined
·
11,077 Posts
Put a bag of cement on the rear while it's on the centerstand.... or lean on the back, see how much it takes to lift the front wheel. I think you'll be surprised.
Just do what makes you feel good, I'm just giving you options that keep the bike stable. I don't trust jack stands not to slip and would like something to back up them and paddock stands.
 

·
Registered
2015 FJR-1300ESF
Joined
·
327 Posts
Took a look, yep the ES relay arm is a different shape. According to parts diagrams though, same bearings as with the -A model.

My jackstands will totally fit under the crash bars on my -ES. Yay!

I could even use all four (2 under crash bars, 2 under swingarm) for extra stability.

Pics later. They have big ol' rubber boots on the heads, I'm not concerned about the bike slipping off.
 

·
Premium Member
2003 FJR1300
Joined
·
85 Posts
Discussion Starter · #50 ·
I wound up having to swap one of the bearings from the old shock arm into the new one. Seems to have gone smoothly, bolted it and the center stand back on.
Moving forward....slowly, lol.
 

·
Premium Member
2003 FJR1300
Joined
·
85 Posts
Discussion Starter · #52 ·
That was weird how the cage of that one bearing kinda disintegrated for no reason. Glad you were able to get it swapped.
I was just impatient and pushed the collar through dry to see if it fit ok. That's what tore the plastic cage. This one, before trying a test fit, I gave a good smear of lithium grease. I've had a lot of second chances with this project. Counting my blessings for sure.
 

·
Registered
2015 FJR-1300ESF
Joined
·
327 Posts
I'll keep that in mind when I do my own servicing. You were able to get them swapped without an arbor press apparently? I was guessing it would require such but clearly there's an easier way.
 

·
Premium Member
2003 FJR1300
Joined
·
85 Posts
Discussion Starter · #54 ·
Yes. Got them swapped out, no problem.
I figured if this didn't work my only option, with parts being backordered, was to buy another used one from Ebay and start over again. Ugh! I was sickened by my carelessness in destroying the two bearings' plastic cages. This has to work, I thought!

I was able to carefully pry out the oil seal on one side and find a socket that was just a hair smaller than the bearing, 17mm worked nicely. I clamped it squarely in the vice and tightened till I was satisfied it wouldn't bind, put pressed squarely. Now I had to figure a way to press the bearing all the way through the shock relay arm. The inside of a deep 27mm socket was big enough for the bearing and socket to drop into, plus it pretty well matched the outside radius of the relay arm, so it was quite likely to stay aligned. Just to be sure it stayed put, I used some stiff foil HVAC tape to hold the 27mm socket in place. Another problem presented itself. I didn't have a deep 17mm socket, so I needed something to extend it to push the bearing all the way out. This setup was getting really fiddley and if anything slipped I'd possibly destroy the relay arm and the bearing. I used a 6mm hex socket that fit inside the 17mm and poked through the center of everything lining it all up.

Now, I just needed to get it centered in the jaws of the vice and make sure the 17mm socket didn't slide along the face of the relay arm, but pressed perfectly into the hole. With all parts, sockets, and a couple strips of teflon to keep the jaws of the vice from marring anything up, I started to tighten it. Ha, I'll be damned, it worked! The oil seal and the bearing dropped into the deep 27 mm socket. Success!

This time, I greased the collar, as mentioned, and gently twisted as I slid the collar SQUARELY throught the seal. Now, with a big sigh of relief, I started trying to remember where all these nuts and bolts went, LOL. It's been so long I forgot how it all came apart, haha. I brought up schematics, youtube, and this forum on the Ipad and figured it out.

Here's my setup.

 

·
Registered
2015 FJR-1300ESF
Joined
·
327 Posts
I'm glad you were able to get that fixed up. Close call!

If you're willing to lend it, I'd be happy to take the extra relay arm to a bearing shop, to find out whether there are choices other than OEM.

FWIW, PartZilla shows all the bearings in the relay arm as being in stock. Same part #'s for your 2003 and my 2015 (even though mine's an ES). Still, it's nice if you can pick up bearings locally vs. waiting 2-3 weeks for them to ship from an OEM vendor.

Also, parts sites like PartZilla have a bad habit of sometimes showing stuff "in stock" that in fact isn't.
 

·
Premium Member
2003 FJR1300
Joined
·
85 Posts
Discussion Starter · #56 ·
Absolutely! You can take the relay arm, a loose bearing or both. I'd love to have new ones on hand.

I bought wheel bearings for my old GS locally years ago. Seems like it was some place off of Candelaria. I doubt Kaman industries would have them, but maybe.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
163 Posts
FYI, many of us in the past, when we didn't know any better ruined the plastic bearing cage. You can just re-install the bearings without the cage. It's a little bit of PITA but grease helps hold the bearings. I rode my first '04 FJR 200k miles like this.
 

·
Premium Member
2003 FJR1300
Joined
·
85 Posts
Discussion Starter · #58 ·
FYI, many of us in the past, when we didn't know any better ruined the plastic bearing cage. You can just re-install the bearings without the cage. It's a little bit of PITA but grease helps hold the bearings. I rode my first '04 FJR 200k miles like this.
You know, I wondered if they'd actually go anywhere without that cage.

200k miles? Impressive! Mine's just broken in then lol.
 

·
Premium Member
2003 FJR1300
Joined
·
85 Posts
Discussion Starter · #59 ·
Finally had time last night and earlier today to get everything put back together.
In all I lubed the swingarm, relay arm, side and center stands, shifter and brake pivot points. Lubed the U-joint, inspected and lubed the drive shaft and final drive splines with Honda M77 and changed gear oil in the pumpkin. Oh, and finally gave it a bath.

20220813_120011 by Roger, on Flickr
 
41 - 59 of 59 Posts
Top