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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This should be an easy one.

On my last oil change I also replaced the final drive gear oil. When I removed the top nut I did not see a washer. I drained the old gear oil and filled it according to the SM. Everything has been ok for the last 1,500 miles except almost every 3 or 4 weeks I noticed seepage around the nut on the FD. I usually clean it up with a cloth but in 3 or 4 weeks it comes back. I ride the bike 250 miles / week as a daily commuter, occasionally I hit the twisties on weekends .
Is there supposed to be a washer to keep this from happening?

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2003 FJR1300R / 2007 Husq SMR 510
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This should be an easy one.

On my last oil change I also replaced the final drive gear oil. When I removed the top nut I did not see a washer. I drained the old gear oil and filled it according to the SM. Everything has been ok for the last 1,500 miles except almost every 3 or 4 weeks I noticed seepage around the nut on the FD. I usually clean it up with a cloth but in 3 or 4 weeks it comes back. I ride the bike 250 miles / week as a daily commuter, occasionally I hit the twisties on weekends .
Is there supposed to be a washer to keep this from happening?

View attachment 87288
There is one on mine but it's a 2003. I would check the fiche"


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2013 FJR1300A
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Alot of us have switched to the Honda drain plug gaskets. Multiple uses and way cheaper than OEM.
94109-14000

Picked up a 10 pack from local Honda CAR store for like $6.00.
M/C dealership wanted $3.00 each for exact same part number.... UGH
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Alot of us have switched to the Honda drain plug gaskets. Multiple uses and way cheaper than OEM.
94109-14000

Picked up a 10 pack from local Honda CAR store for like $6.00.
M/C dealership wanted $3.00 each for exact same part number.... UGH
will I be able to use the same plug gaskets for the engine oil drain plug?.
 

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Yup, same size plug. Just the FD bolt is magnetic.
 
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This should be an easy one.

On my last oil change I also replaced the final drive gear oil. When I removed the top nut I did not see a washer. I drained the old gear oil and filled it according to the SM. Everything has been ok for the last 1,500 miles except almost every 3 or 4 weeks I noticed seepage around the nut on the FD. I usually clean it up with a cloth but in 3 or 4 weeks it comes back. I ride the bike 250 miles / week as a daily commuter, occasionally I hit the twisties on weekends .
Is there supposed to be a washer to keep this from happening?

View attachment 87288
Look closely at your plug. The crush washer can be almost grafted onto the plug/bolt and can be very hard to see.

Haynes
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Look closely at your plug. The crush washer can be almost grafted onto the plug/bolt and can be very hard to see.

Haynes
If that's the case, I may not be able to remove the washer from the nut. I will take a look ..
 

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If that's the case, I may not be able to remove the washer from the nut. I will take a look ..
Is why I switched years ago on my other Yamaha bikes.
That and all the Honda car stock we have here.
Pic is from MT-09 drain plug and can see the washer smashed on there. Just took a small flat head screwdriver and pried it loose. Then held with a pair of pliers and "wound" it off.
Replaced with said Honda washer obviously.

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I have a Honda car dealership literally 3 miles from work. During my lunch hour I went there to parts department. Showed them the part number listed above, the guy at the counter looked it up in the computer, it shows .99 cents per unit. I purchased 4.
 

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Sure, buy the Honda crush washers from the dealership for $1 each if you are in a hurry.
Or, plan ahead and buy a lifetime supply for you and your friends for $.09 each delivered.

100x 14MM TRANSMISSION OIL DRAIN PLUG CRUSH WASHERS 94109-14000 FOR HONDA/ACURA | eBay
or any of a dozen other vendors.

The Yamaha OEM crush washers went from $.40 each when I first started buying them, to $2.75 -- $5.90 each today.
Guess what I use today.

By the way, I used to remove the Yamaha OEM crush washers from the drain plug by placing a razor knife blade between the washer and drain plug face and apply a little downward pressure........presto, pops right loose.

dan

YMMV, No lifeguard on duty, contents may settle................etc.
 

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I'm a big fan of the Honda aluminum washers too... last a long time.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
By the way, I used to remove the Yamaha OEM crush washers from the drain plug by placing a razor knife blade between the washer and drain plug face and apply a little downward pressure........presto, pops right loose.
dan
YMMV, No lifeguard on duty, contents may settle................etc.
Last Saturday morning I removed the top FD nut. Following the aforementioned procedure worked like a charm. Remove the old crushed washer, by the way was pretty thin. Replaced it with the Honda washer. And no, I didn't torque the nut to factory spec.

All is well.
 

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Engine oil drain, final drive fill, and drain bolts should all have some sort of crush washer (OEM, Honda, Dowty, or copper). And while we are talking about drain bolts, the torque setting for engine drain bolts is wrong. 31 lb.-ft. is too much. You run the danger of stripping the threads in the crankcase. Final drive setting is 17 lb.-ft., a much more reasonable spec. They are both the same sized bolt in the same kind of aluminum casting. The only difference is that the FD is magnetic. So if you are paranoid and you want a magnetic bolt for the engine, you know where to get one.
 
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