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I have been working on electronics for almost 50 years....60 milliamps is 6 hundredths .060A(scale is tenths .x00, hundredths .0x0, thousandths(milli) .00x. 60mA is a high draw. Typically static draw is lower on most bikes, to run clock ONE- TWO mA .001mA plus any memory devices an additional~10mA(ECU). Yuasa says use a constant charger, aka not one that changes voltage as it gets to peak charge, charging at a fixed ~14v to 14.5v and just reducing current as it hits full charge. I have a home made charger. More reliable than anything you can purchase. Lastly the Regulator has sealed connections , water tight down under, near swing arm and they are not know to fail....much.
 

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2009 FJR1300, 2000 VFR800, 2004 V-Strom 650, 2003 VFR800, etc.
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270 Posts
Discussion Starter · #22 ·
An update of minimal value.
Since changing to the new battery, there's been little opportunity to ride the bike. Not just the weather caving in- we were almost 25 degrees F below normal last weekend- but other distractions have intruded.
Still, what riding did get done showed no deterioration of the system voltage and even leaving the bike sit for several days, the voltage at the terminals remains in the 13.1-13.2 range.
I am somewhat more convinced that the previous battery was improperly conditioned when I bought and installed it, and wound up being an eighty-percenter with a short life.
Still wish the dashboard voltmeter was indicating more than 12.6-12.9 when running on the road with the Oxford grips and Gerbing liner turned on. The lowest running reading of any of my bikes that had a voltmeter (which is most in recent times).
I did get the Roadstercycle fat-wire harness that connects the R/R directly to the battery. It appeals to the old electrician in me, but I haven't been able to give it a running test yet.
 
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Versys 1000, VFR800
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With the heaters on, I don't think that's too awful, maybe a little tad low, but not bad..... wish you were closer, I have a series regulator I'd like to try, so see how it manages the power. On my Versys, doesn't seem to matter what I have on, the voltages stay right up there (and I have 20% less stator power than you have)....... series regulators (SH as opposed to FH) manage power differently and are more efficient.

I would start by again verifying your voltmeter(s), and ensuring all the connections are good. When you start the bike, let us know what you're seeing as the charging voltage at idle and at 2500 rpm.. If your battery was ~13 (fully charged), you should see 14+ with engine running. No reason you shouldn't......
 

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2009 FJR1300, 2000 VFR800, 2004 V-Strom 650, 2003 VFR800, etc.
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270 Posts
Discussion Starter · #24 ·
The various voltmeters I have, hand and panel, all agree to the tenth. Strange but true.
I do see about 14.2 or so once things get going. Another odd habit this bike has is that it takes a minute or so (haven't timed it) to get up to that "running" voltage. The VFR parked next to it, which has a Compu-Fire rectifier/regulator (thank you, past owner!) zips right up to 14.2-14.4v. Same goes for the beater V-Strom 650 over there, and it has stock stuff as far as I know (which may not be far- I got it with 45,000 miles).
The FJR is pokey at that.
That said, the only electrical trouble I've ever had with the bike was killing batteries. Not parasite drain stuff, just plain batteries failing. Before I installed the voltmeter, mostly on account of wanting a USB charging port for my Sena when the Missus and I have been talking too much, I was blissfully ignorant of what was going on down there.
Maybe I should just tape it up.
 
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