[RaYzerman]

Request for Sticky......

For all ES owners who may one day need it, I'm passing this along some info from a member here and where to get service.........

1. Weepage at the damping stepper motor - There's a good possibility, this is simply an O-ring leak. The FSM says a new O-ring should be used if the stepper motor is removed, however, they don't list the O-ring as a service part.... shouldn't be hard to find a suitable one at your usual O-ring store.

2. Leakage at the main shaft seal - Requires a rebuild, you'll know if you see leakage there and have lost the ability to adjust damping (pogo effect).

3. Spring upgrade - OEM is a 685 lb. in spring rate, a 200 lb. rider needs 800-850 lb. in. I believe this is a 7" long spring, which should be commonly available, my local suspension folks offered me one yesterday from their inventory.

Where to get service... (referral by Cogent Dynamics)..... EPM Performance Imports in New Jersey. They rebuild any OEM shock and state they do ES type shocks. As of this writing, one quote is $289 for a rebuild, $189 for a spring upgrade, plus shipping. Turnaround in 10 days or so.

Home | EPM Performance

 

[Deets55]

Thanks Ray, that's real good information.
Pete

 

[Bill Lumberg]

Good news. With over 95k on my 2018ES suspension, it still rides and performs like new (as did my 2014A suspension did when I traded it at around 85k). But I’ve always looked forward to seeing someone stateside start offering rebuilds on these-cause you never know.

 

[RaYzerman]

Although I have been prompting a handful of ES owners to contact Cogent, etc., no one seemed willing to dig into it...... so, we should give the credit to major domo for being the pioneer since his shock may require a rebuild.... I'm just passing along the information from his initiative..... he deserves the kudos.

 

[Mopheadama]

Thanks for the info!!

 

[jjscsix]

Good news. With over 95k on my 2018ES suspension, it still rides and performs like new (as did my 2014A suspension did when I traded it at around 85k). But I’ve always looked forward to seeing someone stateside start offering rebuilds on these-cause you never know.

Many people don’t know whether their shock performs like new because the change is so gradual over time. It’s not like these bikes shocks performed like a true sport bike with Ohlins when they are new.

I’m now implying you are wrong. This is a general comment about the typical rider. Truthfully I’d have to ride a new one on the same roads I frequent to see what, if any difference there is compared to new. I have a CBR 1000RR and a Ninja 1000 and no doubt they are noticeably better handling than my FJR, but they are supposed to be.

 

[Bill Lumberg]

I have a 97,000 mile 2018 ES and a 1,500 mile 2022 ES in the garage now. Riding them back to back, the difference is almost imperceptible.
The same was true when I switched from my 2014A at around 85,000 miles to the 2018.
I know everyone doesn’t enjoy the longevity or consistent, long distance performance, that I have. The only factors I can guess at are the fact that my bikes get ridden long miles year round, never sitting for long, and that, despite significant hard mountainous use and long high speed interstate use, they don’t generally see many harsh or poorly maintained roads. Who knows.

Many people don’t know whether their shock performs like new because the change is so gradual over time. It’s not like these bikes shocks performed like a true sport bike with Ohlins when they are new.

I’m now implying you are wrong. This is a general comment about the typical rider. Truthfully I’d have to ride a new one on the same roads I frequent to see what, if any difference there is compared to new. I have a CBR 1000RR and a Ninja 1000 and no doubt they are noticeably better handling than my FJR, but they are supposed to be.

 

[major domo]

Thanks for the kind words, RaYzerman! I am still in the process of getting the ES shock off, and have run into a snag: The reservoir on the left-hand side of the bike seems to be mounted in a rubber sleeve (see photo)

, which is part of a larger assembly. Question: does the resevoir just pull out of that sleeve (it's a really tight fit), or does that whole assembly have to be removed as well? I hope someone in the community has had experience removing an ES shock.

 

[RaYzerman]

There are two screws holding the metal sleeve on, which clamps it. At minimum loosen the screws, at worst, remove the whole whole thing and separate them later.
Pic from page 4-100 of the FSM.

 

[major domo]

There are two screws holding the metal sleeve on, which clamps it. At minimum loosen the screws, at worst, remove the whole whole thing and separate them later.
Pic from page 4-100 of the FSM.


View attachment 85533

There are two screws holding the metal sleeve on, which clamps it. At minimum loosen the screws, at worst, remove the whole whole thing and separate them later.
Pic from page 4-100 of the FSM.


View attachment 85533

RaYzerman: Thanks, but the diagram in your reply seems to show the RH reservoir (as one is sitting on the bike), and not the LH one. Photo attached shows the LH reservior from the rear of the bike. As you can see, there is no mounting bracket like fitted to the RH reservior.

 

[RaYzerman]

The service manual mentions removing the rear fender, although you'll have to see if that is truly necessary... Your part is part of the DC motor assembly, so have to remove the whole assembly it appears.
BTW, just noticed you should reset the preload to zero before you unplug anything.

 

[major domo]

Thanks again, RaYzerman. I somehow overlooked the manual section (didn't scroll down far enough) covering removal of the ES version. This should be a big help!