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2003 FJR1300R / 2007 Husq SMR 510
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Oh it’s not that bad…it doesn’t even come over the dust seal rim after a couple hundred miles. I only noticed it because i had never seen it/wiped it before and there was evidence of oil, but looked faint and old/dirty .. not fresh/clear. Hopefully its a very slow one.
I wouldn't even touch it till it forms at least a single drip.
 

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Discussion Starter · #123 · (Edited)
Perfectly safe and easy peasy. 😁
I’m attempting now actually. What’s the trick of popping up the Dust seal whilst keeping those big plastic debris guards in place. I’ve read it’s better to leave those alone, but I’m having trouble getting a flat head under the dust seal. Seems recessed a bit.

EDIT: I’m under there now….. This is mildly scary but I’m being cautious😆

EDIT2: Done and seemed to work? Time will tell! A little sketchy 19hrs before a tour, but something tells planning only makes sure most major events won’t happen…but it can’t eliminate all events😆
 

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2009 FJR 1300AE
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You can push down on the front and bounce it a couple of times to make sure everything is re seated properly then wipe everything and you'll be able to tell if it stays dry. 😁
 

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I’m attempting now actually. What’s the trick of popping up the Dust seal whilst keeping those big plastic debris guards in place. I’ve read it’s better to leave those alone, but I’m having trouble getting a flat head under the dust seal. Seems recessed a bit.

EDIT: I’m under there now….. This is mildly scary but I’m being cautious😆

EDIT2: Done and seemed to work? Time will tell! A little sketchy 19hrs before a tour, but something tells planning only makes sure most major events won’t happen…but it can’t eliminate all events😆
A FLATHEAD?!?!??!!? SCREWDRIVER?!??!?! God bless you my friend.

Be safe out there and enjoy all you can. I'm doing about 500 tomorrow with a pillion so lets both screw our heads on straight and keep our eyes on the cagers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #126 ·
A FLATHEAD?!?!??!!? SCREWDRIVER?!??!?! God bless you my friend.

Be safe out there and enjoy all you can. I'm doing about 500 tomorrow with a pillion so lets both screw our heads on straight and keep our eyes on the cagers.
Just what the YouTube instructional video said to use. Was guys in an actual bike shop too🤷🏻‍♂️. I ended up using the edge of a little wood handled crafts knife i have to get it started.. then used the backside. We’ll see if the cleaning helped. I would not be surprised if it still weeps….. like i will…every day when i see it😆.
Be safe…
 
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Just what the YouTube instructional video said to use. Was guys in an actual bike shop too🤷🏻‍♂️. I ended up using the edge of a little wood handled crafts knife i have to get it started.. then used the backside. We’ll see if the cleaning helped. I would not be surprised if it still weeps….. like i will…every day when i see it😆.
Be safe…
I've actually done it without removing the dust seal. You just need to make sure you're deep enough to get into the oil seal. It actually cleans both that way.
I also keep the sealmate with me in my top box incase I or someone else needs it on the road. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #128 ·
I've actually done it without removing the dust seal. You just need to make sure you're deep enough to get into the oil seal. It actually cleans both that way. ;)
I’m bringing the tool with me. Is it possible that riding the bike alot after doing the cleaning will actually seat the seal better than the test bounces?
 

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I’m bringing the tool with me. Is it possible that riding the bike alot after doing the cleaning will actually seat the seal better than the test bounces?
It all re seats pretty easily but yes riding puts everything back as it should be. And if you see some seepage just repeat the process. Sometimes takes more than once till you get the hang of it. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #130 ·
It all re seats pretty easily but yes riding puts everything back as it should be. And if you see some seepage just repeat the process. Sometimes takes more than once till you get the hang of it. ;)
So after 150ish miles i saw a little bit of oil and i was super bummed. I wiped the stanchion and the little bit i saw and I got used to the idea that I’d have to wipe it every so often. Then after that i never saw any more oil, and the stanchion seemed to be coming out pretty much clean after that. I was very pleased. On the flip side, I definitely have the no-hands 45mph steering wobble, so I guess that means I need new steering bearings. Odd, because they don’t feel loose at all.
 

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If you still think you have weepage, wrap a rag around the fork tube below the protectors and put a big zip tie on it..... will keep oil from running down onto the brake rotors.
 

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Discussion Starter · #132 ·
If you still think you have weepage, wrap a rag around the fork tube below the protectors and put a big zip tie on it..... will keep oil from running down onto the brake rotors.
Seems to be gone now! Even when it was weeping it wasn’t a strong enough weep to get near the brakes. Only time it had residue near the brakes was when i first discovered it. It looked very thin/old/dirty.

What I’m not looking forward to is taking the side fairings off again and doing tab repairs on my brand new right side panel. The little triangular header panel on the bottom needs a tiny adjustment every day because those inside mounting tabs broke during the “garage incident”😑
 

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So after 150ish miles i saw a little bit of oil and i was super bummed. I wiped the stanchion and the little bit i saw and I got used to the idea that I’d have to wipe it every so often. Then after that i never saw any more oil, and the stanchion seemed to be coming out pretty much clean after that. I was very pleased. On the flip side, I definitely have the no-hands 45mph steering wobble, so I guess that means I need new steering bearings. Odd, because they don’t feel loose at all.
So as I said you can always repeat the procedure if necessary. As for the wobble I would start with the easy things first and eliminate them before I jump to the steering bearings. Is the tire good, properly balanced, correct air pressure, suspension settings the same on both forks, forks properly aligned, wheel bearings ok? I just think it's better to eliminate one thing at a time to rule out each thing that could be having an affect before hand. Just my 2cents. :unsure:
 

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Discussion Starter · #134 ·
So as I said you can always repeat the procedure if necessary. As for the wobble I would start with the easy things first and eliminate them before I jump to the steering bearings. Is the tire good, properly balanced, correct air pressure, suspension settings the same on both forks, forks properly aligned, wheel bearings ok? I just think it's better to eliminate one thing at a time to rule out each thing that could be having an affect before hand. Just my 2cents. :unsure:
I know tire is good, proper air pressure, suspension is fine. Forks were fine…unless the fall in the garage could have misaligned them? I am running a 190 which slightly decreases rake and trail…. can’t imagine bearings would be bad. I could try to tighten the steering stem bolt when i get access to a properly sized tool…
 

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I know tire is good, proper air pressure, suspension is fine. Forks were fine…unless the fall in the garage could have misaligned them? I am running a 190 which slightly decreases rake and trail…. can’t imagine bearings would be bad. I could try to tighten the steering stem bolt when i get access to a properly sized tool…
In a pinch you can put the bike on the center stand, put some weight or have someone sit on the back to raise the front wheel off the ground. Grab the forks and move them back and forth to check for any play,movement, noise etc. If you discover excess play and you haven't gotten the proper tool yet you can use a flat screwdriver and a hammer to lightly tap the castelated nut tighter to remove the play until you get the proper tool to set the torque where it should be. Yammi shows a spanner type tool but I bought a castelated socket on the net which makes it much easier. Yammi says torque it to 37ftlbs back off then torque to 13ftlbs which most agree is too light and 15 to 18ftlbs is recommended. As always YMMV. ;)
 

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I have also heard of instances where even a seemingly good tire, brand new or what have you was causing wobbling, vibration etc. Front or rear and had to be replaced. :unsure:
 

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I know tire is good, proper air pressure, suspension is fine. Forks were fine…unless the fall in the garage could have misaligned them? I am running a 190 which slightly decreases rake and trail…. can’t imagine bearings would be bad. I could try to tighten the steering stem bolt when i get access to a properly sized tool…
Mine does the same thing about 5k miles into the Pirelli I put on and just noticed it a couple days ago. I can't feel it or tell it's there and it's only when I let go of the bars 45+. I also didn't balance the wheel at all so I am pretty sure it's from it wearing in unbalanced. I may take it off and balance it and then run it a few hundred and test again. My steering feels fine, preload and rebound are as even as can be and the bike handles 100% so I really don't want to even get into the bearings.
 

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I have also heard of instances where even a seemingly good tire, brand new or what have you was causing wobbling, vibration etc. Front or rear and had to be replaced. :unsure:
Happened to me on a ZRX that had Race Tech forks and Works Pro shocks on the rear. Bike never had the slightest hint of a shimmy until I put on Avon tires. Bad shimmy everywhere. Spent 200 miles playing with suspension settings to no avail. Took them off and shimmy gone.
 

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Discussion Starter · #139 ·
I have also heard of instances where even a seemingly good tire, brand new or what have you was causing wobbling, vibration etc. Front or rear and had to be replaced. :unsure:
Two things…. One, I’m gonna try to stop by the guys in Bennington Vt that helped within the tire last year. Ronnies Cycles i think. See if they have time time check the fork alignment and stem tightness etc. If not I’ll make it. Front tire was put on backwards. I had to take it back before the trip to have it flipped. Could it be that the guy was lazy and didn’t re balance the tire when he flipped it? Would that cause it? As to your posts above it only occurs between 40-45mph. And even if i put some fingers of one hand on a bar..i can still feel it very slightly wanting to shake.
 
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Lazy tech, and I use the word "tech" loosely, would be my guess. If he didn't care enough to put the tire on right, he probably didn't care to balance it.
 
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