Pick a small finger. Getting your finger stuck in a roller bearing is really embarrassing
Epic Eastern Tour #2 prep…
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Okay guys, here's the thing about the ABS sensor plate.
From 2004 thru 2012 the bearing spacer is part of the ABS sensor plate as one piece (26 on the fiche up to 2012). That's why it isn't listed separately in the parts fiche. Same thing on the front.
Starting in 2013, Mamaha in her infinite wisdom, decided to make the ABS sensor plate (27) and the spacer (collar)(28) as two separate pieces. Probably a cost thing. That makes it harder to be sure all the pieces get installed and in the correct order. Same thing on the front.
To make life easier, pick up an ABS sensor plate from E-Bay with the one piece spacer attached from the 2008 -- 2012 model years to replace the two piece affair on the 2013 -- present model.
If the ABS sensor plate is installed without the spacer (collar-28), tightening the axel nut will suck the axel up against the brake carrier and the sensor plate and cause it to bow inward against the wheel instead of against the spacer. That's probably where the extra threads on the nut side came from. That will cause the wheel to be tight and difficult to turn. DAMHIK!!
Dan
There's never enough time to do it right.
But there's plenty of time to do it over. -- Unknown
From 2004 thru 2012 the bearing spacer is part of the ABS sensor plate as one piece (26 on the fiche up to 2012). That's why it isn't listed separately in the parts fiche. Same thing on the front.
Starting in 2013, Mamaha in her infinite wisdom, decided to make the ABS sensor plate (27) and the spacer (collar)(28) as two separate pieces. Probably a cost thing. That makes it harder to be sure all the pieces get installed and in the correct order. Same thing on the front.
To make life easier, pick up an ABS sensor plate from E-Bay with the one piece spacer attached from the 2008 -- 2012 model years to replace the two piece affair on the 2013 -- present model.
If the ABS sensor plate is installed without the spacer (collar-28), tightening the axel nut will suck the axel up against the brake carrier and the sensor plate and cause it to bow inward against the wheel instead of against the spacer. That's probably where the extra threads on the nut side came from. That will cause the wheel to be tight and difficult to turn. DAMHIK!!
Dan
There's never enough time to do it right.
But there's plenty of time to do it over. -- Unknown
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So inside the differential, from the locknut side, feels like a section of plastic first, then metal towards the inside that you can see. Neither “spin” with my finger, but they don’t apear to be ready to fall out either.. both snug.Pick a small finger. Getting your finger stuck in a roller bearing is really embarrassing
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I thought old Dan there was off topic a bit, but now that i think about it..i could have been hearing the ABS protector plate stressing which made me back the nut off after i heard something. It’s not cracked or bent though. Everybody pray for my steed tonight. 🤦🏻♂️🤦🏻♂️
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Yes the washer was there keeping the axle from driving inward past the ABS protector plate and brake assembly.
That brings us back to part 28 that I asked you about a page or 2 back. Do you have it?
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I’m not sure i could tell what it looks like on the wheel. If it’s not there, it means they also lost a part at the shop too …Jesus
32 on the drive shaft fiche, is 32 on the drive shaft fiche for all Gen FJRs. 32 is loosely fit in from the spline side of the gear case assy. as a spacer that the axel passes through when assembling the rear wheel to the gear case. It can be removed by hand or, can fall out when the gear case is removed to service the drive shaft spline, if the gear case is turned spline side down. Without that spacer, tightening the axel will bind the rear wheel from turning.
Edit #2:
32 looks a little like a smooth deep socket with a little flange on the outside of one end.
5 on the rear wheel fiche is the bearing spacer between the wheel bearings on the left and right sides of the wheel. 5 will not come out without removing a wheel bearing.
Edit:
If any of the spacers and bearings from one side of the rear wheel and gear case assembly to the other side are missing, the assembly will bind up and not turn or damage bearings.
dan
| Things are never so bad they can’t be made worse. – Humphrey Bogart (as Charlie Allnut) from The African Queen. |
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Affirmative. It was right there on the floor, so it popped out before I was taking those pictures…that a good thing in preventing possible bearing damage? I sure hope..lol
Yall right I was looking at the rear wheel diagram and not the drive shaft diagram. Glad we got where we did though. ::whoopsies::
28 looks similar to the bearing spacers on the front wheel. It rides inside that seal that you can see in the picture of the brake side of your wheel. It is a spacer with a step in it.
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Looks like only thing I’m missing then is the spacer tube for the differential. Which of course would have remained in the bike if i hadn’t flopped it down on the garage floor like a porpoise.
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The tech would have to be a reeeeal deeick to pretend he doesn’t have it anymore. I’ll probably have to call him out if he does..lol. I’m just gonna ask for it and not mention how he acted like he installed it in something. Count my blessings. Thanks, you and Streamrider for the assistance.
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Same here. The gap between the swing arm and the hanger looks too big. My axle is flush and my gap looks only about 1/4 - 3/8 inches.
EDIT: Never mind. I didn't realize I had 2 more pages to read before adding this post. Glad you got it figured out ATL.
Eagerly waiting to see if you get it back.
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Going to get it in about 30
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