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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
We’ll, it’s time for v2.0 of my epic eastern tour! It’s 4 weeks beforehand, and i plan to really stick to the “Do nothing more to the bike for 2 weeks before a trip rule”😆. I’ve got a new rear tire already in the garage and even though my Angel GT front has 2.5mm left on the treads (of the 3.5 when new), I’m likely gonna swap it for a new one and finish it off later. I’m gonna do the oil/filter for sure…maybe clean the air filter if needed, and do the diff oil just to be nice. If brakes are needed I’ll do them too. My question is, should i bother with trying to grease the u-joint, if I’ve never attempted that before, while I’m dealing with the rear end, or could things potentially go awry with that job? Same with brake fluids, which I’ve never done the FULL way. I’m going to wait till after to check valves for sure…around 40k. It’s been running amazing.
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Be sure to note-- the drive shaft clean-n-lube and the U-joint clean-n-lube are listed as 2 different procedures at MJ's site.
Is this even a thing in the manual that Grandfather Yamaha (as we call him in the piano store) recommends to be done? If so, what’s the recommended mileage?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
@AtlRiderrr If you are interested I took some pictures of mine and expressed some thought's when I did mine at about 58k IIRC. Relatively sure it had either never been done or only done early on after the break in period. After seeing what I saw, I will be taking Mark's standpoint and at lease checking the moly every rear tire change. Considering I run darkside I may have to just resort to 5-8k and making sure it is where it needs to be and slap the wheel back on. It is easily done in one afternoon and is the main power delivery system so why not take the time.

Given my luck so far this weekend, I’m not sure if I’m gonna attempt to break it open before the trip.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I mean it isn't going to kill the thing. You saw the pics in that thread so you can guess how far gone it can be and still work. Mine does run like a top though after doing it.
I noticed in the article that he mentions the rear splines are actually lubricated by the gear oil, so i feel like i can just leave that one alone. When you remove the acorn bolts can you keep the pumpkin attached to the shaft in the back without pulling it out. The front one scares me a little..lol. I feel like something is gonna happen 2 weeks before the trip…lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
My advise. Before a road trip, watch a few episodes of RoadKill, take a few spare parts and just embrace the adventure.
I know right? Oil and filter is gonna happen…and new gear oil, and air filter check…perhaps new brake pads. Drive shaft just feels like it could go wrong at the wrong time..lol. But i did ride through a hurricane with it a year ago, so i bet it’s a little dry.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Also you are rocking a GEN 2 and I think the U-Joint is easer to finagle out of its "spot" on the engine splines. I had to make a couple of my fingers bend in ways they didn't like even with both dust covers off but in all seriousness it's as easy as pulling Lego's apart, spreading some moly and then putting them back. It's super simple.
I have a Gen III. Pretty sure the 15’ is a Gen III but i could be wrong.

So once you remove that footpeg cover thing with 5 or so bolts…and the dust covers. The shaft with the u joint just kinda pops right out when you remove the acorn and shaft? Or the acorn and shaft come out of the ujoint, then the point comes out on its own?
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I am pretty sure you are right. Look at it this way, if you do it it will be good for the bike and I assure you it isn't hard or complicated. If you don't your bike cam off the showroom floor only 6 years ago and obviously had dealership service since then. Mine is 19-20 years old and I don't think when I did it (a month ago? maybe?) it had been done in over a decade at least. The metal they made these things with (again going off the GEN 1 I am not sure about gen 2 or 3) is extremely hard. Japan is renound for it's metal creation and perfection. I buy and sell the finest Japanese golf clubs and while the point is not to make them that solid the tolerances that they set on a batch of metal for creating anything rivals even the Swiss. This is not Chinese pot-metal it's Japanese hardened STEEL. Even if yours is dry and covered in rust dust it won't hurt it for a long while of abuse. #justsayin
I feel ya. Just belly flopping my bike today really took the gusto out of me for the weekend😆
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Dropped it or what's a "belly flop"?

More importantly is your human squishy form okay?
Fuck a bike you can have a story, your body on the other hand only gets one shot and parts are stupid expensive.
Came off the track stand and the center stand at the same time in my garage…the one time i wasn’t usinga block under the headers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
I couldn’t resist, so i did the shaft and u-joint service today as well as new gear oil.😆

Also did brake pad swap in the front. I took everybody’s suggestions and made my own choice as far as pads. I did a “mirrored” swap. Basically mirrored one caliper for the other. If i go flying off a ravine, my last post will be to tell everybody not to do that with their pads😊. I got new Galfer double HH’s for the rear.
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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
That U-Joint looking hella sexy after a WD-40 wash!!! You must be glad you got moly in there and cleaned it up! While it wasn't near as bad as mine she does look a little dry.

Wasn't too hard right?!?!?!?
Nope…a little time consuming, but the job itself was pretty straightforward. Nothing like taking my whole fairing stay off after the accident😶. That was a whooor’
 
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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
I dunno boys . This, to me looks like my rears are at 45-50% still..lol. And that’s after 31,500 miles. I feel like they have another 3.5k in em! Plus rear brakes look annoying compared to the fronts. You gotta take the caliper apart?
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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
Looks like plenty left. Prepping for surgery? Don't recall doing anything special to replace pads, what do you mean by taking caliper apart?
I don’t see any pad pins like the fronts. Looks like you have two take the entire caliper apart with the large fore and aft bolts on the caliper?

Also this rear axle always has me shook. Everything is “right” but when i torque (using an actual torque wrench) this up to EVEN 80ft/lbs, it sucks this Allen side in 1/8 - 1/4 inch and it just makes the wheel “feel” way too stiff. Plus it makes sketchy noises as you torque, like you’re gonna break something. I don’t like that at all.
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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Comes apart like 99% of cars. Remove caliper from carrier (2 slider pins), pads are held by carrier - that thing with the torque bar to the swingarm. Pads just pop out of it. Much easier than fronts.

As for your axle - dunno. Shouldn't be noisy . Don't understand what you mean by suck in - is your pinch bolt loose?
Don’t you tighten the pinch bolt last after the axle?
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
Yup. That is why I am curious what is sucking in.
It’ll do this, but even further in. And at 80lb/ft it will feel stiff…like turning the wheel feels odd. Right now it’s no torque cause i got scared how that felt and looked. I swear every time i B deal with this axle it scares me😆
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Discussion Starter · #42 ·

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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
The wheel feels a little stiff to turn, is that normal? I feel like it should be real easy
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
I'm looking at mine. Something looks off in that picture to me
Lol take a photo of yours…i have this much thread through the nut too which feels like too much…
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Discussion Starter · #48 ·

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Discussion Starter · #51 ·
Are you 100% sure the bearing spacer (Part 5) is in correctly?
Actually no. That thing came out during the craziness and i had the dealership put it back in for me. How would they have put it in wrong?
 

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Discussion Starter · #55 ·
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