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A few fellow riders have told me i should use a diesel oil such as shell rotella 15w40 synthetic. Said it would help wear better than other types. Anyone heard of this? :?
 

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badfjr said:
A few fellow riders have told me i should use a diesel oil such as shell rotella 15w40 synthetic. Said it would help wear better than other types. Anyone heard of this? :?
Have used Shell Rotella T synthetic 5w 40 in all my bikes. It gets pretty dark because of the additional detergency and has a higher ash content than car oils. This does not affect the bike as we change oil at much lower mileage intervals than trucks. They keep oil up to 15000 miles or more and most sumps have 15 gallons plus of oil!
This oil is designed to be run for extended oil change periods so for me that makes sense as it is a very high quality oil.
 

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Don't for heavens sake switch to a diesel lube oil after a few thousand miles on gasoline crankcase oil. The high detergency strips the accumulated crud left by a gasoline crankcase oil and the smaller oil lube holes/sprays block very quickly causing starvation.
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fjrichard said:
Don't for heavens sake switch to a diesel lube oil after a few thousand miles on gasoline crankcase oil. The high detergency strips the accumulated crud left by a gasoline crankcase oil and the smaller oil lube holes/sprays block very quickly causing starvation.
I doubt very much this will happen in a newer engine, even regular car and motorcycle oils have a certain amount of detergency. Then again I have not checked with Shell on this. The tech i talked to before I started using it said it would be fine for use in motorcycles.
 

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There are a lot of opinions on this, based primarily on anecdotal evidence which is highly suspect. In my experience (again anecdotal evidence) if you use a good quality oil in the correct weight range and change it within the parameters that Yamaha recommends you'll be fine. I've got a buddy with an ST1100 that has 145k using the Rotella oil with no problems. I personally use Motul synthetic and change it at 3k intervals.
 

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This may shed some light on the dark art of motorcycle oil.

http://www.yft.org/tex_vfr/tech/oil.htm

I personally don't understand the mystery.

Read and use the information gained as you see fit. I use Shell Rotella T Full Synthetic 5w-40 in all my bikes. Track bikes, dirt bikes and sport-touring bikes alike. I have for years. Never had an oil related failure and have never had to replace a clutch. I ride about 35,000 miles a year. It is inexpensive compared to other advertised products. I buy it at Wal-Mart for $12.95 a GALLON. Compare that to some, so called motorcycle oils that are $6 to $8 dollars a quart. You do the math.
 

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I have used and would recommend the Rotella, in any flavor. Leebunyard has used it for years in a variety of bikes including the Feej, with some blue bottle STP added, with excellent results. You'll find the STP aids smooth shifting as well as bumping the viscosity a bit.
 

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radman said:
I have used and would recommend the Rotella, in any flavor. Leebunyard has used it for years in a variety of bikes including the Feej, with some blue bottle STP added, with excellent results. You'll find the STP aids smooth shifting as well as bumping the viscosity a bit.
Andy Granitelli thanks you with a wink and a nudge... :wink: BWAHAHAHA!
 

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Does diesel oil have the same additives that car oil has? Which can make the clutch slip on motorcycles!
 

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woody said:
Does diesel oil have the same additives that car oil has? Which can make the clutch slip on motorcycles!
No it has no added friction reducers, that is why it is OK for bikes.
 

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fjrichard said:
Don't for heavens sake switch to a diesel lube oil after a few thousand miles on gasoline crankcase oil. The high detergency strips the accumulated crud left by a gasoline crankcase oil and the smaller oil lube holes/sprays block very quickly causing starvation.
:roll: ahem, fjrick...I don`t know where ya got this one from man...ya better bone up on yer research there, otherwise your gonna be eating alot of crow around here :!: :shock:
 

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Yes diesel oils are great for motorcycles. They have higher levels of lubricants than regular motor oils. They have properties that suspend particles in the oil better so that your filter can pick them up too. Rotella, Delo 400, Delvac 1300 are great oils to run. They are next best to synthetic oil.
 

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Don't really like crow. It was well meant advice that if you have worked in a tribology lab is common knowledge. I repeat don't put it in an engine that has significant mileage on gasoline crankcase oils.
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fjrichard said:
Don't really like crow. It was well meant advice that if you have worked in a tribology lab is common knowledge. I repeat don't put it in an engine that has significant mileage on gasoline crankcase oils.
So if the motor was flushed first would that be OK?
 

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IMHO a flush where you bring the engine to running temp and then drop the oil would achieve next to nothing from the point of view of dislodging accumulated debris. If you really wanted to swap to a high detergent lube on a high mileage motor a shorter period of residence and more frequent oil filter changes using the high detergent product would do the trick. But estimating those periods over diverse speed and load ranges is the difficult bit! All of the oil companies sludge formation tests are run with as you probably appreciate closely controlled thermal conditions over set cycles and with reference fuels etc. If you are really interested visit some of the myth and fact sites of the oil companies. They answer a lot of the FAQ's on this site concerning not only the detergent issue but mixing of synthetic with mineral, break in on synthetic or not, viscosity etc etc.
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This discussion doesn't go anywhere. It is not diesel oil that is the problem with crud, it is all synthetic oils that pose a risk for older engines that always ran dyno oil. And particularly this is true for the more expense and rare true synthetic oils that are ester based. Synthetic oils all have a cleaning and solving nature due to their composition.

Good article on the matter of oils is found here:
http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Oils1.html
 

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Jeez but oil threads are a hoot. Para 5 refers to a very poorly kept engine, or an ancient one. Detergent oils have been the rule for at least 30+ years in all but some small engine use (ie lawnmowers). If a motorcycle engine is sludged to the point of visible crud, who'd buy it? Not this writer. I have never seen a case of oil changes done in rapid succession in an attempt to clean up an engine fail to do just that-it's just that the engine usually has problems related to poor care that have sealed it's fate already. Actually, replacing 1 quart of the oil with a quart of ATF, then running the engine gently for a few hundered miles will do a pretty good job of cleaning things up, as ATF has a very high detergent content. But, as I stated, if an engine is that crusty, you already have stuck rings, bad cam lobes, and bearing/crank wear that demands a teardown anyway.
 

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diesel oils

hey fellas(and gals!)
Long time no see, hope everyone had a safe and enjoyable holiday season...couldn't help but notice the thread with respect to motor oils was for vintage tractors! Sorry if I don't catch the significance to our bikes but I have run Shell Rotella in many bikes with no problems including my admittedly low mileage 03 FJR and a 96 R1100RS with over 100K on her, to each their own but you cant beat the price at Walmart(when they dont run out of it!)
dirk
 
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