[Knocker1980]

After wanting an FJR for years I finally picked one up about 4 weeks ago. It's a 2007 model with 42k miles and has the auto clutch.

All was well for the first two weeks and then out of the blue the bike cut out on me at a junction. I had a few other issues show up on this journey which resulted in the warning light flashing and the ABS light flashing. I later found out this was due to the rear foot brake lever pivot sticking and holding the back brake on. The pivit was cleaned and regreased and all was well.

About a week later the bike cut out on me at a junction again, it did this several times on that journey but would always start straight back up when put into neutral, it would sometimes cut out as soon as 1st gear was enaged though. It also coughed a few times while I was riding at 70mph on the motorway but didn't cut out. I managed to get it home convinced the issues was the side stand switch and sure enough I found if I wiggled the blue connector for the side stand switch (it's behind the fairing on the L/H side of the bike) I could make the bike cut out when it was in gear. I cut this connector off and attached new spade terminals and some heat shrink and the issue seemed to go away, I can pull and twist this connection and the bike stays running.

Cut to today and I took the bike out and all was well for the first 5 miles or so but after it had properly warmed up the bike coughed again while doing around 30mph and whilst pulling upto a stop in traffic the engine cut out. The engine started straight away again but there were several occasions where it was coughing and stutterting at low speed and it did manage to cut out a few more times when coming to a stop but as soon as it is restarted it idles perfectly.

With the bike having an auto clutch i'm not able to pull the clutch in and rev the engine to keep it going when it stutters so this issue for me is fairly dangerous as I just end up stranded in the middle of junctions while I try and get going again.

The bike always starts, the idle speed is rock solid, the bike has had all the recall work completed and has been well looked after.

I'm really rearing my hair out with this. The guy I bought it off did say he'd had issues with the side stand switch which casued the engine to cut while it was being ridden but that this had been sorted by his Yamaha dealer and he'd had no issues since it was fixed.

I plan to bypass the side stand switch altogether and see if the issue persists but if this doesnt work can people suggest what else I could look at? I'm thinking possibly the Throttle Position sensor as I know these can cause intermittent cutting out and the fact that it only seems to happen when the bike is hot could also point to that. I've currently got all the panels off the bike and am going over all the wiring and connectors but so far they all look OK.

Any suggestions are very greatfully received.

 

[fjrlee]

I agree, looks like the TPS - there was a recall on them, double check that it was completed

 

[fjroddy]

ignition switch and wiring harness had recalls, make sure they were done. Autos like a good battery make sure it's good. check idle rpm. And here is some reading The Ground Spider Comes Home to Roost ........ Need YCCS electric clutch troubleshooting help ...... Auto clutch fluid change procedure .......and a video that sounds similar, read comments he says changed clutch

 

[RaYzerman]

I get your first batch of issues, bike running OK but cutting out immediately. Now you have running issues with the sputtering.....

First thing I would do is inspect the MAP sensor (Intake Air Pressure sensor).... black thing on top of the throttle bodies, two screws. Has an electrical connector and a vacuum hose underneath. Pull the hose off, look for crud build-up on the vac nipple and check the hose is clean through.
Could be your TPS....... no good way to reliably test them. The setting is in DiAG screen, see where it is (will be between 12 and 21) and if you want to experiment a bit, move it off the worn area.... in other words, increase the low end reading up a bit but stay within the 21 that Yammy says is max. May give you relief..... until you get a new one.

 

[Knocker1980]

The bike is up to date on all recalls that apply to it.

MAP sensor looks ok, the contacts were clean and the vacuum hose was spotless inside. I’ve been through every bit of wiring and connector under the tank and fairing looking for anything obvious but it all looks good to me.

The TPS values on the diag screen are between 16 with throttle closed and 100 with throttle open. The resistance on the sensor when measured with a multi meter is within spec according to the values in my Haynes manual although I realise that a faulty TPS can still test Ok.

There are no stored fault codes on the diag screen either.

The previous owner did say he’d had issues with the side stand switch which caused it to cutout while riding and that his Yamaha dealer had cleaned the switch up but not replaced it. I replaced the connector on the side stand switch but not the switch itself. I’ve now bypassed the switch altogether so I’ll see if that makes any difference.

 

[RaYzerman]

What I was getting at was, if it cuts out suddenly as if ignition shut off, that's one thing.... it won't be the MAP or the TPS. You're on the right track with that, maybe clean up the kill switch too.

 

[Reserector]

Check voltage and battery connections. A loose or dirty connection, or a failing battery will often manifest itself as random electrical gremlins.
Easy and free to check.

 

[[email protected]]

Have you considered the Crank Position Sensor? Had intermittent power, start-up issues. If it is the CPS, it's easy to get at. The only glitch is the connection to the bikes wiring harness. I had to remove the throttle bodies to unplug/plug in the new sensor on a Gen 1.