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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Having "centre punched" a cyclist last night :evil: I now have a small crack in the fairing between the headlights. :cry: As these mouldings are quite highly stressed I'm sure it only going to be a matter of time before the crack spreads. I don't won't to go drilling holes in it which is one of the tricks I've used in the past to stop propogation. Does anyone have any neat ideas as to how to stop it spreading considering its where everybody can see it?
 

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Ahem .... how's the cyclist? (As a keen cyclist myself I worry about these things).

I'd suggest you'd best get that the crack plastic welded, then sprayed in. Bit of a specialist job, but much cheaper than a new panel.

There's a guy in Walsall called Andy Bonner (Google his name or search on Superbikemedic for his contact details). His work is very good and very reasonably priced.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hiya richfjr good to hear from you again,I noticed you were a keen cyclist when Ian and I popped in to drop off the GPS bracket !
The cyclist in question is better than he has any right to be. We made eye contact and he still pulled out in front of me. FJR at about 15MPH hitting cylist amidships = cyclist a little further down the road than he expected to be (dressed entirely in black, with black wooly hat, perhaps in training for the SAS?) and, as he picked up his cycle and walked to the side of the road and lifted his knee repeatedly, he looked at me and said he wasn't sure if he'd broken his leg. I thought back to my St John training and said "it doesn't look to bl**dy broken to me"
Anyway thanks for the info I'll give him a look, happy Christmas to you and your family.
 

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Hi Stuart - I wondered if it was you.

If he were SAS then you can expect a visit from one of their helichoppers and some rather well-armed chaps making an interesting entrance via the windows. Best keep the cat locked up for a day or two.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
As far as I'm concerned they can take the cat, as long as thier carefull with the windows (and wipe their boots of course, 'er indoors hates getting mud on the carpet!) I've had a look at the superbikemedic website, it looks very impressive. I also phoned a local bike shop who have said that the panel I need (will need?) is going to put me back about £140 :( so I will have to see what is the cheaper option, thanks again for the advice
 

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fairing repair

Stuart,
This past summer I hit a deer. I had managed to slow from 70 mph sufficiently that I only broke off the fairing mounting lugs, had a few cracks and destroyed the headlight protectors.
I found that a lot of patience & a liberal use of J&B Weld (a two part epoxy) and layers of clothes dryer softener tissues took care of the damage. The cracks aren't even noticeable from the outside. All repairs are on the inside surfaces. Scuff up the areas first.
Give it a try, you'll be surprised how strong the repairs are.

dobias
 

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I had some (ehmm, ok, severe) damage to the fairing of my Dullsville.

I bought a fibreglass resin based repairkit from Halfords (can't remember the brand name, sorry). A bike repairshop told me that it wouldn't last, that it would fall off when it got hot.
I rubbed the inside of the fairing panels down with a coarse sandpaper and applied several layers and it worked fine, I even spent a fourtnight in southern spain riding the bike with that repair (and it never fell off).

But then again, why should you pay £100 + for a repair shop to do it if the material to do it yourself only cost you a tenner???
(it's all in the advertising)
 

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There was one on EBay recently - new IIRC.

Plastic welding:

Take a soldering iron

Trace along the crack on the inside of the panel to "weld" it together, don't go too deep or you come thru the good side.

Take some spare plastic (obviously a lighter colour if you can - coat hanger...), melt a bit off with your iron, melt it onto the crack, effectively joing both sides together.

Repeat and repeat until you have gone the full length of the crack.

It's not a perfect solution but I have welded plastic things together in the past with good effect - it don't always work though.

Got this tip/demonstration from a motorcycle programme on Sky some time back and that's how they repaired the fairing panel in question.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks for all the info Fellas, I've now gota few more ideas than i had to start with. The Crack appears to have been pushed out from the back. I guess that was caused by the cyclist pushing the majority of the fairing back and the the support bracket behind it not moving a great deal!.
Dobias, after reading your deer encounter I'm wondering if my internal brackets have gone as well (guess where I'm going to be spending the christmas break!)
Rabbit thanks for the ebay link it looks as though it's the right year as well, I think I'll give him a call and see if his still got it. thanks again everyone for all the help.
Happy Christmas
 

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The aluminium front subframe has proved to be a bit liable to bending in side impacts, but don't know how it fares under frontal assault. While you've got the front fairing in bits it might be a good idea to check that out, as any misalignment would put extra stresses on the plastic and make any cracks more likely to spread.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
thanks Marshman it's going to be a voyage of discovery as I have no workshop manual or the like, does anyone do one for the FJR? I've been looking but not seeing.
 

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The Yamaha workshop manual for the 2000-2002 models was about £33 and available by mail order from Speedaway Motorcycles (I think they are in Birmingham). I assume that the ones for later models are out there as well.
There are electronic copies on the web somewhere as well. No doubt a link will be posted soon.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Marshman Your assumption was indeed correct, It is the panel i'm looking for but my one's a red one and that blue one did seem a bit pricey for a second hand part as (I've been told) a new one would be in the region of £140 painted. But thank you for taking the time to look, good on ya
 

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Ha! Knew it was out there somewhere. 8)

Try this link to download the 2001 manual in PDF form.
Its 15.3meg so broadbean is best, unless you want to have your feet up for awhile.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Marshman your a bloody hero, :D thank you too much now all I need to do is network this compooter to that printy thing and find six hundred sheets of paper
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Marshman, thanks again the manual has now been dowloaded, printed and bound and, if I ever get of christmas decoration duty I'll get to reading the relevant parts. :lol:
 
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