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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
When I cold start my 2013, and if it is in gear with the clutch all the way pulled in, the bike lurches forward. If I start in neutral (usually do), and back out of the garage to then coast forward down the driveway into the road, and then put it in 1st gear, even with the clutch pulled in tight to the bar, the bike starts moving. As I drive it for a minute or so, this disappears and the clutch acts normal. Did I explain this clearly enough to be understood? And any thoughts as to what is happening?
 

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- change the clutch fluid as mentioned,
- investigate a clutch soak. This is more of a "clean the sticky goo" thing. Not hard to do;
- do you have aftermarket levers?
- what's the condition of the little brass bushing in the clutch lever? As it wears it feels like the clutch doesn't disengage as you describe. Pics below.
 

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What engine oil are you using, and on the clutch leaver, there is an adjustment dial, what number is yours on, the setting of 5 gives you max adjustment
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Original levers and does anyone have a video on youtube for the soak? Or step by step instructions?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Put in Valvoline 20w-50 around October of last year...approximately 1400 miles ago
 

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Put on your internet fire suit.

Try a different motor oil. Clutch drags when cold with many motor oils, not so much with others. Its not such a bad option to Just Live With It. Point the motorcycle in a safe direction and hold on before putting it in 1st gear.
 
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What Russ said....a few factors, the brass bushing, the levers and flush/leed annually. But, also sounds like a clutch soak wouldn't hurt. BTW, Gen3 has extra holes in the clutch basket to allow more oil than prior Gens... you'll notice more drag with a heavier viscosity oil than a lighter one....
 
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As several have said above, bleed the clutch hydraulics well, check the pivot and bushing very closely and maybe a clutch plate soak & clean. Take a look when you shift to see that the rpm’s drop immediately when you pull the clutch in, it should.

I think the fjr has a propensity to drag the clutch some regardless, on my 14a when it was new it would drag badly so the bike was very hard to shift, it started right after the 600mi service so I had thoughts of it being oil as did the dealer so I changed to a different oil brand on the recommendations made here, it had zero effect on the clutch. It was still under warranty so the dealer did the work and I got to see 2 of the removed clutch packs first hand and they were welded together with the black goo Russ mentioned above, it took a hammer and screwdriver to break them apart.

On mine, the cause manufacturing debris in the clutch hydraulic slave system that caused my clutch to drag, it apparently wouldn’t allow it to disengage and after Yamaha got involved and they disassembled the entire actuation system and cleaned it, it’s been pretty much perfect since but I will add that if the bike sits for longer than a week When i start it, When i pull the clutch in I blip the throttle to I believe separate the clutch plates, this provides a nice quiet “snip” into 1st gear instead of a “clunk” , i’ll add that the “clunk” isn’t all that bad but the “snip” is so much quieter and it has to be easier on things.

By the way i’m On the 4th clutch pack in my bike but i’ll add that since the dealer got things right that my fjr is one of the very best shifting tranny’s i’ve ever experienced, But I do believe that the fjr clutch is susceptible to being dry & dragging. It is not pressure fed oil like most.

Lots of good suggestions above and if you use the search function here you will find lots of info on the fjr clutch issues, but in my opinion the only things that really affect it are either air or debris in the slave system, worn bushings or pivots or if it’s dragged enough to create the infamous black goo then you're going to Need to do a clutch soak/clean. Get a shop manual if you don’t have one, the Yamaha manual is very thorough but a bit difficult to follow but the Haynes or other aftermarket one’s are simpler to follow but not quite as thorough. Let us know what you find.
 
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Put in Valvoline 20w-50 around October of last year...approximately 1400 miles ago
Put on your internet fire suit.

Try a different motor oil. Clutch drags when cold with many motor oils, not so much with others. Its not such a bad option to Just Live With It. Point the motorcycle in a safe direction and hold on before putting it in 1st gear.
True dat! I've used Valvoline in my FJR for yrs and yrs, it works fine. But even I won't use 20w-50 except in the hottest of summers down here. Switch to Valvoline 10w-40 4-stroke motorcycle oil and see what happens.
 

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Sounds like pretty normal behaviour to me. Every motorcycle i’ve ever owned has had cold clutch drag to a greater or lesser degree
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Interestingly, today, I put it in neutral, rolled it back and front about three feet, started it from cold, and put it in 1st gear, and it slipped in with no crunch, and no forward lurch...
 

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True dat! I've used Valvoline in my FJR for yrs and yrs, it works fine. But even I won't use 20w-50 except in the hottest of summers down here. Switch to Valvoline 10w-40 4-stroke motorcycle oil and see what happens.
I've been using almost nothing but 20W-50, but there may be a difference with 2016+ clutch.

Come to think of it the sweetest oil I have used in FJR is a Valvoline 20W-50 "4T" oil I found at Walmart.
 

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Ptackly, try starting it in neutral, pull the clutch in, blip the throttle and then put it in 1st, I bet it just goes “snip” ,, give it a try and see..

How does it shift after the initial start & drop into gear ?
 
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Ptackly, try starting it in neutral, pull the clutch in, blip the throttle and then put it in 1st, I bet it just goes "snip" ,, give it a try and see..

How does it shift after the initial start & drop into gear ?
Thanks for the suggestion! Started it like you said and it worked perfectly. Is that an indication of anything??
 
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