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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Changing Clutch and Brake Fluid.

Maybe I'm overlooking it.

But could someone tell me the capacities of each; so I know how much to purchase.:nerd:
 

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I just buy a quart of reasonably priced Dot 4 brake fluid each time. That leaves me plenty for my cars and friends cars that need their brakes bled. {I would never use any leftover brake fluid in my FJR, I pop a new quart every time. I suspect that as long as you put the cap back on carefully and tightly, there would be very little water get in the brake fluid, but having lost brakes on a mountain one time, and scaring the crap out of myself, I just don't take chances}.

Everyone has their preferred method of bleeding their brakes, but since I installed "speed bleeders" on my FJR and purchase the brake fluid safe bag and clear line that they sell also, bleeding the clutch and the brakes is a small job instead of a big one. Just sayin. I use a Mity-Vac on my cars, because I don't want to spend the money for 16 "speed bleeders" since I maintain all the family cars. LOL
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Was looking at Amisol brake fluid.

It come in 12 oz.

Will that do it all?

Clutch, Both Front Brakes, Rear, plus ABS?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Can you recommend part #s
 

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Did you go with the Steel or Stainless Speed Bleeders?

Thnaks
I truly don't remember, but I can't imagine me putting anything but SS on my trusty steed. LOL
 
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This has been one of my best buys at Harbor Freight. Currently $33 but 25% off coupons are easy this Labor day. Also buy an adapter for your air compressor hose.

The advantage of the above is once brake fluid starts moving out it never pauses. Air bubbles never get a chance to rise. Plus once this thing is running you can pump the levers to move fluid faster. Probably a good idea especially with brakes to make sure the piston moves the full travel to wipe the cylinder of whatever might accumulate. In ancient times pumping brakes to flush was frowned upon because the piston might travel over unused corroded cylinder and get destroyed. Then you would have to replace the master cylinder. However I think if that was the situation then "Heck yeah! Destroy it now in the driveway and not at a railroad crossing panic stop."

Also use caulking cord, rope caulk, whatever you want to call it. Non-hardening caulk weatherstripping. Consistency of chewing gum. Is useful to seal the threads when the above is sucking fluid out. Grease works too.

Its great for sucking the brake fluid out of the reservoir from the top. Lets you wipe the grime out of the bottom before adding new fluid. Have also used mine to suck old gas out of under seat gas tank of BMW F800S without removing the tank. Just removed the hose from fuel pump outlet and connected the HF brake bleeder.

https://www.harborfreight.com/brake-fluid-bleeder-92924.html?_br_psugg_q=brake+bleeder
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·

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So what are so different from these and stock?:nerd:
Speedbleeders have a built-in one-way valve. Still have to worry about sucking air in around the bleeder threads but they have some sort of sealant to minimize.

I prefer the HF tool. Must buy Speedbleeders for every vehicle, or just one HF bleeder serves all your vehicles and your friends too.
 
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I just did a complete front and rear brake + clutch fluid replacement and just used over about half of a one litre pack of Dot 4. (A litre of water is about a pint and three quarters)
I dunno about this ounces thing that you colonials use.

The dog's boll*cks of bleeder valves is supposed to be these, but boy are they pricey!

http://www.stahlbus.com/products/en/bleeding-system/index.php
 

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I'm a speedbleeder fan, have used vacuum bleeders, not a fan. For the rear, substitute SB7000 no suffix as the nipple is a bit longer so your hose doesn't slip off. If you flush annually, non-stainless is fine and $7 each.
You can use clear plastic tubing, but the best is the silicone hose Speedbleeder sells. It will stay on your bleeders. Speedbleeders come with a thread sealant on them, but after a couple of years they may not seal... on any bleeder, you can use grease or teflon tape. Keep some isopropanol around to wipe up if brake fluid gets on or paint or anywhere else you don't want it. Flush your silicone hose with it when you're done.
If you bleed annually, you will need very little fluid.. capacity of each circuit is around 2 oz. each... more than that for flushing but 8 oz. should be enough. Better to buy a couple small containers than one large one, you may not need the second one. You can store it if you keep it tightly sealed, but don't keep it for "years". One year. I keep saying flush annually......
The clutch is going to be the worst looking stuff if you don't flush annually. Don't forget to cycle the ABS systems.
 

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Have a look here.

http://www.speedbleeder.com/Motorcycle Sizes.htm#Yamaha

Front____Rear____Clutch
SB8125L_SB7100S_SB8125L

These are Steel, I think the Stainless would be SS, also make sure you get the correct suffix, L and not S or LL
I wanted to update this thread for those with 2003-2012 model years. The above is correct for the 2012 and up Gen3, except for the suffix of the rear part number. For Gen1 and Gen2, per the speedbleeder.com/bikechart.htm

2003-2012:
Front: SB8125 (need three of these for the front)
Rear: SB7100S
Clutch: SB8125 (same as front brake)

2013-2020 is listed as:
Front: SB8125L (need three of these for the front)
Rear: SB7100 (no "s" on the end)
Clutch: SB8125 (same as front brake)

I hope that helps! :grin2:
 
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Wow... no way to edit a previous post?

Well.... I messed up too.

The clutch on the 2012-2020 models should be SB8125L.

Corrected:

2003-2012:
Front: SB8125 (need three of these for the front)
Rear: SB7100S
Clutch: SB8125 (same as front brake)

2013-2020 is listed as:
Front: SB8125L (need three of these for the front)
Rear: SB7100 (no "s" on the end)
Clutch: SB8125L (same as front brake)
 

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Knowing what I know now I would not put an L on the clutch. Not enough room. Go with the S there.

For the front and rear brakes- any or no suffix will do fine.

And I've never ordered from the speedbleeder website. I use https://kirbysbrakebleeders.ecrater.com/. He's gone above and beyond for me figuring out various vehicle applications.
 

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The end result of suffixes on SpeedBleeders ends up affecting the nipple length.... definitely on the rear no suffix...... clutch as Russ says.... get yerself some nice silicone tubing, it will stay on bleeder nipplies more betterer.
 
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