[NMrider]

Hello all - I'm fairly new to this forum and bought my first FJR May 2013. Its an 03, silver, two-bros pipes and larger aftermarket windscreen with 27K miles, for $4300. I'm a "moderately experienced" rider, owning a variety of bikes, and riding regularly 8-9 years over the last 30 years and raced AMA middleweight superbike for 3 years (92-94) on a Yamaha FZ 600, yes, pre-genesis 600, and running 2:20s at Daytona ROC.

Anyways, it took me about 1000+ miles to get used to the FJRs length, weight, shaft-drive, handling, braking, etc...I ride primarily as a commuter, 70 miles RT to work each day on a fast four-lane stretch in southern New Mexico. After 3000+ miles, I really love this bike. The power, stability, comfort and handling is amazing. At 70-80mph this bike is the most smooth, stable bike I've ever ridden. I've made a few speed runs up to 145-155mph, and over 130 felt a slight side-to-side, slow wobble, which I suspect is a result of the hard packs. During my "winter break" I will put on a new set of Pilot 3s, throttlemeister and bar risers.

Two questions I have are: Has anyone installed a programmer on their FJR, and if so what kind, and what was your experience using it? Has anyone installed a nitrous oxide system on an FJR or other sport touring bike, and what is your experience in doing so? I'm not planning on doing this anytime soon, just curious to see if anyone has any first-hand experience with either or a combination of both. Although, an FJR with 200 rear-wheel hp might be interesting!

 

[bounce]

Pretty much the wrong venue for such. Most are getting it for distance not sprinting.

Better to get a lighter bike for playing silly things with. The 650 lb bike is a handicap starting off if you want to do NO2 and other quarter miler stuff.

The trick is thinking about where its strong points are. Try taking a NO2-enhanced 600cc bike on a 1000 mile day ride. Then you start to see where the FJR strengths lie. Modding the FjR with things that can't be properly deployed on public roads seems to be throwing money into a black hole.

 

[Liquidsilver]

Yeah. Sounds a little like putting an alcohol-burning, double-blower engine in a Volvo wagon.

IMO, NOS would compromise the bikes reliability and be a nuisance. Fuel injection modules like the Dynojet Powercommander can enhance the bike's mapping for throttle response and various exhaust configurations, but they don't give the bike more horsepower.

Have you considered a Suzuki Hyabusa?

 

[Glock45fan]

Might try looking at the 1200S or 1200 Bandits... Sounds like you're wanting a drag bike with sport touring ergos and those pretty much fit the bill. I had a 2002 1200S that had a big bore kit, was ported and polished, with carb, exhaust, and airbox mods. It was a fire breathing dragon. Check out the maximum suzuki forum for further.

 

[NMrider]

Pretty much the wrong venue for such. Most are getting it for distance not sprinting.

Better to get a lighter bike for playing silly things with. The 650 lb bike is a handicap starting off if you want to do NO2 and other quarter miler stuff.

The trick is thinking about where its strong points are. Try taking a NO2-enhanced 600cc bike on a 1000 mile day ride. Then you start to see where the FJR strengths lie. Modding the FjR with things that can't be properly deployed on public roads seems to be throwing money into a black hole.

bounce - Hmmm, I thought this was under "Sport & Racing" in the FJR forum...silly me. I see the strength of the FJR as a very stable platform, with better than average performance, that's why I bought it. As I said, I was simply curious about anyone's experience with either.

Liquidsilver - That's kinda what I figured on the programmers, just moves the power around. The Hayabusa has impressive specs out of the box, but I would buy an R-1 if going that direction.

Glock - I have always liked the big, stripped down look of the bandits and other similar bikes. Suzuki seems to be the go-to bikes for big, raw power. I'll check out the forum, thx.

 

[Glock45fan]

Oh and forgot to mention, I stopped in to say howdy on the maxzuk forum the other day and there's a legendary turbo bandit on there for sale. It's been owned by a few different members but it's been taken care of very well.

 

[Amski]

Wow, sometimes I really don't get the mind frame of today's bike owners. Sometimes, some stuff just comes across as kind of prissy to me. The sport definitely isn't what it used to be.

Most of the guys that I have ever known would think it was worth it to work up ANY bike to try to increase it's performance.

****, the iconic "muscle bike," the mighty Vmax, came about because someone at Yamaha took an 83' Venture Royal touring bike engine and decided to see what they could do to turn it into a beast.

I really don't think that, or understand how, anyone that used to ride in the 80's and through part of 90's would think that sporting up a FJR would be an unreasonable idea.

NMrider, I personally love your question, as well as your old school way of thinking. To me it's kind of refreshing to read, instead of the usual stuff like people complaining about their problem of buffeting when they have their windshield in full upright position.

I mean seriously, with the FJR1300, you are starting with a beast of an engine and a bike that if you throw on a 4 into 1 and take off the saddlebags, will probably be close to the dry weight range of some older FZR1000's.

Want to drop another 24 pounds off of the bikes total weight? Only fill up the monstrous 6.6 gallon fuel tank with 3 gallons of gas.

Besides, if you're going to throw NOS on a bike, it's best to have a longer wheel base and a bit of weight behind the bike.


NMRider, your question makes total sense to me... But then again, I still have a girthy '93 GSX1100G sitting in my garage with a set of racing Mikuni RS36 smoothbores on her.

 

[Liquidsilver]

Okay, but in my opinion, R1s and Hayabusas are nothing like the same thing at all. If I build a hot rod bike, I wouldn't start with an FJR.

 

[NMrider]

Thanks Amski - I'm 46 going on 47 soon and grew up replacing V-6s for V-8s and small blocks for big blocks in the late 70s early 80s. I teach high school auto tech and regularly have kids that want to put the big block in a Pinto thing, or build the 650hp Honda civic tuner car. Of course the question is "why", and the answer is "cause we can/could"? Usually the $$$ is the limiting factor, then time, then desire/interest. We are currently doing a frame up restoration on a 78 Chevy short box 4x4 and building a frame up rat rod with 41 Ford pick-up cab. We have a well equipped shop, 3 lifts, a full welding shop (mig,tig, stick, plasma cutter) with fab equipment, and a decent budget, so we can build and modify a lot of cool stuff. Every bad ass vehicle started with an idea or crazy notion, then usually lots of time and money followed. Hence the question that started this thread. Will I do it, maybe, maybe-not; but anything is possible. A $3000 race rebuild, custom exhaust, programmer and 50-100hp shot of NO2 would produce a 250hp non-turbo FJR...Why? Cause I can if I want to.

BTW - Nice bike, the first big street bike I ever rode on was an 83' GS1100.

 

[bounce]

Yep. That was my point. There can be a lot of cash wasted getting a 650+ lb bike just to the point where another bike would be starting out at. If you start out with a more appropriate platform you can hit your target easier and with less cash.

You can put nobbies on an FJR but that won't make it a good dirt bike either.

No one's saying don't do what you want. Many people will oo and ah if you succeed. Just don't expect a lot of info floating around in the ether for a niche project. If you decide to break new ground, post up (with photos).

 

[4or2wheels]

I figured an exhaust and a tune was pretty much the limit to what you could do to the FJR for some additional horse's. There doesn't seem to be much if any performance upgrades available through the aftermarket. THat's probably because of a lack of demand.

 

[Amski]

Thanks Amski - I'm 46 going on 47 soon and grew up replacing V-6s for V-8s and small blocks for big blocks in the late 70s early 80s. I teach high school auto tech and regularly have kids that want to put the big block in a Pinto thing, or build the 650hp Honda civic tuner car. Of course the question is "why", and the answer is "cause we can/could"? Usually the $$$ is the limiting factor, then time, then desire/interest. We are currently doing a frame up restoration on a 78 Chevy short box 4x4 and building a frame up rat rod with 41 Ford pick-up cab. We have a well equipped shop, 3 lifts, a full welding shop (mig,tig, stick, plasma cutter) with fab equipment, and a decent budget, so we can build and modify a lot of cool stuff. Every bad ass vehicle started with an idea or crazy notion, then usually lots of time and money followed. Hence the question that started this thread. Will I do it, maybe, maybe-not; but anything is possible. A $3000 race rebuild, custom exhaust, programmer and 50-100hp shot of NO2 would produce a 250hp non-turbo FJR...Why? Cause I can if I want to.

NMRider... The only thing I can say to your post is "freakin' awesome. That's what hot rods, motorcyclin', Bruce Springsteen songs, and a manly man life are all about! The only thing missing are the parts store yearly scantily clad vixen calendars on the wall....

 

[Mcbridedl]

Pretty much the wrong venue for such. Most are getting it for distance not sprinting.

Better to get a lighter bike for playing silly things with. The 650 lb bike is a handicap starting off if you want to do NO2 and other quarter miler stuff.

The trick is thinking about where its strong points are. Try taking a NO2-enhanced 600cc bike on a 1000 mile day ride. Then you start to see where the FJR strengths lie. Modding the FjR with things that can't be properly deployed on public roads seems to be throwing money into a black hole.

I couldn;t have said it better my self

 

[20valves]

...with the FJR1300, you are starting with a beast of an engine and a bike that if you throw on a 4 into 1 and take off the saddlebags, will probably be close to the dry weight range of some older FZR1000's.

Yes, the FJR has a stout engine. Same weight as an older FZR? Um, no.

An '89 FZR 1000 with no gas was about 490lbs., about 520lbs with a full tank. An FJR with no gas, bags and 1 muffler would be about 610lbs.+. And an FZR made about the same rear wheel horsepower as an FJR.

 

[Amski]

20Valves...

When I looked up the dry weight of the 2003 FJR1300, the information stated that the bike had a dry weight of 522 pounds. NADA has it as 521lbs dry. The first is the number I originally used.

http://www.fjr1300.info/specs.html
http://www.nadaguides.com/Motorcycles/2003/Yamaha/FJR1300R-C-1298cc/Specs

Information I found stated that the early FZR1000's where in the 470lbs dry weight class. 522 minus 40 for the exhaust and bags would put the dry weight of the bike within approximately 10 pounds of the earlier FZR1000.

That is the info I based my comments on. If my statement is incorrect, that is the reason why and I apologize. I simply went by what I found when looking up the statistics up.

After looking further into it, a few other sites have it as 537 lbs dry weight...

http://www.motorcycle-usa.com/21120/Buyers-Guide-Specifications/2003-Yamaha-FJR1300.aspx

http://www.totalmotorcycle.com/photos/2005models/2005models-Yamaha-FJR1300.htm

Conservatively, I put the weight of the side bags at a minimum of 10lbs each. I don't know the exact weight of them, but to me personally they feel north of 10lbs. I don't have a scale. A Givi 21 liter side bag is 9.9 pounds and a 34 liter bag is just over 17 pounds. So I guessed that the FJR bags would probably fall some where in that range.

It's also not uncommon to get a weight savings going from 4 into 2, to 4 into 1 of 23 -25 pounds. So I don't think 20 pounds is a stretch.

Take off the center stand, and there would be a few more pounds dropped.

Again, as I stated, I simply used the dry weight figures I found online. If wrong and the bike is heavier, that of course would change the claim. But it would not change the fact that the FJR has a lot to work with when it comes to working it up.

To me personally, and to most people I have ever known over the years both in the industry and that ride, the FJR's gearing, it's 1300cc engine, as well as the bike's chassis, give you a lot of bike to work with if you want to blow out the motor and make a muscle-bike beast. There have been a lot of heavier, less powerful, far worse handling bikes that many people I have known over the years have worked into beastly works of art.

 

[Pterodactyl]

Several sources, including the Yamaha website and owners manual, put the wet weight for the 2013 FJR at 637 pounds; 639 in California trim.

 

[Immelman]

I think the original poster had a great question. A faster FJR is something I would and may spend money to do in the future as well. As for those that have the opinion that you should modify another bike instead of the FJR?? To each is own. I think a FAST sport touring bike with a comfortable seating position, room for two and good wind protection is right up my alley. I have modified my four door Mercedes C63 for the same reason. It's practical, I can carry passengers and have a hotrod at the same time. Yes, I could have modified a Porsche, Nissan GTR, Mustang etc... but I modified the Mercedes.... And yes, its an every day car that run's mid high 11's on radials at nearly 120mph. It's fast and fun! Soooo, for all those that would not cut a rear fender or modify the engine on an FJR.... Well maybe you should of bought a Goldwing...

 

[Cheltenham Scotty]

:lol:

Wow, sometimes I really don't get the mind frame of today's bike owners. Sometimes, some stuff just comes across as kind of prissy to me. The sport definitely isn't what it used to be.

Most of the guys that I have ever known would think it was worth it to work up ANY bike to try to increase it's performance.

****, the iconic "muscle bike," the mighty Vmax, came about because someone at Yamaha took an 83' Venture Royal touring bike engine and decided to see what they could do to turn it into a beast.

I really don't think that, or understand how, anyone that used to ride in the 80's and through part of 90's would think that sporting up a FJR would be an unreasonable idea.

NMrider, I personally love your question, as well as your old school way of thinking. To me it's kind of refreshing to read, instead of the usual stuff like people complaining about their problem of buffeting when they have their windshield in full upright position.

I mean seriously, with the FJR1300, you are starting with a beast of an engine and a bike that if you throw on a 4 into 1 and take off the saddlebags, will probably be close to the dry weight range of some older FZR1000's.

Want to drop another 24 pounds off of the bikes total weight? Only fill up the monstrous 6.6 gallon fuel tank with 3 gallons of gas.

Besides, if you're going to throw NOS on a bike, it's best to have a longer wheel base and a bit of weight behind the bike.

NMRider, your question makes total sense to me... But then again, I still have a girthy '93 GSX1100G sitting in my garage with a set of racing Mikuni RS36 smoothbores on her.

+ 1 - I agree, where would the human race be without evolution!!!!:lol::lol:

 

[philharmonic]

20Valves...

When I looked up the dry weight of the 2003 FJR1300, the information stated that the bike had a dry weight of 522 pounds. NADA has it as 521lbs dry. The first is the number I originally used.

http://www.fjr1300.info/specs.html
http://www.nadaguides.com/Motorcycles/2003/Yamaha/FJR1300R-C-1298cc/Specs

Information I found stated that the early FZR1000's where in the 470lbs dry weight class. 522 minus 40 for the exhaust and bags would put the dry weight of the bike within approximately 10 pounds of the earlier FZR1000.

That is the info I based my comments on. If my statement is incorrect, that is the reason why and I apologize. I simply went by what I found when looking up the statistics up.

After looking further into it, a few other sites have it as 537 lbs dry weight...

http://www.motorcycle-usa.com/21120/Buyers-Guide-Specifications/2003-Yamaha-FJR1300.aspx

http://www.totalmotorcycle.com/photos/2005models/2005models-Yamaha-FJR1300.htm

Conservatively, I put the weight of the side bags at a minimum of 10lbs each. I don't know the exact weight of them, but to me personally they feel north of 10lbs. I don't have a scale. A Givi 21 liter side bag is 9.9 pounds and a 34 liter bag is just over 17 pounds. So I guessed that the FJR bags would probably fall some where in that range.

It's also not uncommon to get a weight savings going from 4 into 2, to 4 into 1 of 23 -25 pounds. So I don't think 20 pounds is a stretch.

Take off the center stand, and there would be a few more pounds dropped.

Again, as I stated, I simply used the dry weight figures I found online. If wrong and the bike is heavier, that of course would change the claim. But it would not change the fact that the FJR has a lot to work with when it comes to working it up.

To me personally, and to most people I have ever known over the years both in the industry and that ride, the FJR's gearing, it's 1300cc engine, as well as the bike's chassis, give you a lot of bike to work with if you want to blow out the motor and make a muscle-bike beast. There have been a lot of heavier, less powerful, far worse handling bikes that many people I have known over the years have worked into beastly works of art.

This is an interesting question, http://www.motorcyclistonline.com/roadtests/2002_yamaha_fjr1300/

the above link states the 02 is a heavyweight

http://www.fjrforum.com/files/fjrcomparo.pdf

This semi-official fjr site says it's a lightweight.

 

[JohnC]

****, the iconic "muscle bike," the mighty Vmax, came about because someone at Yamaha took an 83' Venture Royal touring bike engine and decided to see what they could do to turn it into a beast.

Yes, and when you buy a V-Max, that, and only that, is exactly what you are getting.

Yep. That was my point. There can be a lot of cash wasted getting a 650+ lb bike just to the point where another bike would be starting out at.

Years ago, I had a friend in Florida who spent a basket of money hotrodding a Harley Sportster. One day, late 1972, he came across a stock Z-1 (or perhaps it came across him). The Z-1 ate his lunch and ran away and hid.

Early '73, my friend took up dirt bikes.

Me? I want something reliable (gas, oil, tires, and routine maintenance) with reasonable performance (145 mph top end, 120 mph 1/4 mile, 50 mpg at "reasonable" highway speeds with shaft drive) that I can do a 4 Corners run (minimum of 10,000 miles) when the urge hits.

I have an old GPz750 if the hotrod urge hits.