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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm another waiter (waiting for the slower 06 blue model)
I'm sure there has been a break-in thread at some time or another but does anyone have any thoughts on this. Some say be gentle and keep under 4500 rpm as the manual says others say break it in hard just change the oil and filter after the first 30 miles or so. Every bike I have ever owned has been used so I've never had to break them in. There is a procedure here at this web site.
http://www.micapeak.com/bike/FJR1300/breakin.html
I was just wondering what some of you think.
 

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Just ride it. Don't let it sit and bake in a traffic jam, don't do a top end run on the way home from the dealer, don't lug it. Don't make its first miles a long drone at a set rpm.

I am pretty sure the Yam manual does not say to keep it below 4500 RPM. I think it probably says to avoid prolonged operation above 4500 RPM.

Now, let's move on to oil and tires again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
20 valves

Your are right it is prolonged operation above 4500 rpm, my mistake
thanks for the tips and sorry to start an old thread. I promise I won't ask about oil.

(24 valves )
 

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How did you break in your car? Same princable. Don't spend to much time worrying, it will be fine. Just use common sense.
 

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Motoman break-in

DonP,

I did the motoman break-in you referenced in your first post. Changed the oil and filter at the dealer and saw all the metal flakes suspended in the oil when they poured it out into a barrel outside. The second oil change I did at 600 miles was as clear as could be.

The only hard part about the break-in is accelerating that much when you're not used to that much power. I had a Kawasaki W650 before the FJR and doing the break-in scared the beejeebers out of me. And that was on a deserted highway outside Deming NM!

I've got 9.5k on the bike now and she hasn't needed any throttle body adjustments (which I've checked), doesn't burn any oil, and has lots of power. So I haven't seen any downside to doing the motoman breakin and it may've helped. The research they've done on this break-in suggests it helps though. I just can't remember the reference to it.
 

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Try the old site at http://www.fjrowners.ws/fjro4/aus.html and do some varied searches on "break in", "running in" etc.

The short form of running in is to use short periods of accelleration / load up to around 70% of max allowable revs followed by low load / cool down periods. Short hills or sloping freeway on ramps + accel then decell to suck up plenty of oil onto the bores then low load for enough time (~2 - 3mins ) to lose the localised heat in the bores then go again. Repeat 10 - 15 times then go home and change the oil and filter. If the rings and bores aren't run in by then they'll be close to it.

Piston rings are forced onto cyl bores more strongly when under load. Protracted periods of heavy load during runin can cause galling / pickup between rings and bores and tear small but significant amounts off the rings and bore with long term effects. Try up to 20 secs @ up to 70% then decell, low load and repeat the cycle.

There are a lot of people smarter than me around but thats the approx program I've generally used on my vehicles. Realistically a period of riding in a hilly built up area would be probably be just as good as long as the periods of sitting at idle are minimised.

Your bike -- your call
 

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Basically it's been told to me to just ride the bike like you gonna ride it. That was told to me knowing that I ride hard. The old school techniques don't mean as much now with high tech ( ceramic composite sleeves ) cyclinder heads.
 

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Just roll it up easy, keep your front wheel on the ground until you have become familiar with the weight. The amount of loft you can get is dependent on how much you want to abuse your front forks on the way down. This bike can stand straight up if you like, but not what I consider smart or talent by any means. Just run it in at all rev ranges, allow some full cycles of warm up and complete cool down initially as well. I would expect the mechanic does at least a few of these after putting it together.
Be careful with you new thrust machine, and have fun. :wink:
 

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pronomian said:
High throttle in second or third, how high does the front wheel come off the ground?Mike
Less than 1mm.

IOW, it won't come off the ground in second or third on throttle unless you're going over a rise in the road or something. First is the only gear in which a stock FJR will wheelie on throttle, and then it'll be because you tried to wheelie. This is a long, heavy bike. '06 is longer and heavier still.
 

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Less than 1 mm. wheelie in second gear? Oh, ya, I forgot about the detuned American models. :lol:
Up here in Canada, the colder denser air gives the beast a whole new dimension, seriously!! Rolling around a corner in second, straightened it out and wacked it, and....hello...she's up, and would stay up if I wanted it to. Running around 5,500 to 6,000 when she came up.
You southern boys should have a run up here and see what I am talking about with cooler moist air, she's a fire breathing dragon.
 

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Oh yah... cool Canadian air... mm hmm. ;)

I ride in winter and cool weather does make it a little snappier... but a heavy top box, a really soft rear suspension, a passenger, or just a heavy rider, will let the front come up in second... but it's more of a jerk wheelie, instead of the pure power wheelie in first.


:) - on bikini patrol in FL
 

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So it's just me that can't get it up........in second?
Very embarrassing.

I know I could catch second gear with the front end up on my '03. I never had it just power up in second gear on level ground though. Of course, I don't miss many meals either. As the '06 gets loosened up a bit, it does seem that it will wheelie on throttle in first with only a gentle tug on the bars, even with that longer swingarm.
 
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