Johnno,
Follow the shop manual, when bleeding the brakes. One front caliper gets bled first, then the rear. It helps to let the rear brake pedal snap upward by side-stepping the brake pedal after each press (because you will move more brake fluid that way). Then hang a heavy weight on the brake pedal overnight, to get the most air he system. Make sure that the weight does not make the brake light come on; otherwise it could drain the battery.

 

thanks again red, an obvious learning curve.

 

It is not uncommon for the Gen 2+ FJRs with the integrated brakes to have a recurring 'soft rear brake pedal' issue. Some do it. Some don't. If the brakes haven't been bled in a while then by all means do the complete bleed. But if your brake fluid is less than 2 years old or so I have found you can fix the soft pedal issue by just bleeding the rear brake circuit on the right front caliper.

 

Flush and bleed your brakes and clutch annually, people..... you'll prevent the vast majority of issues. Once you've done that first big bleed, subsequent bleeds are just a matter of a few squirts out the bleeder to get fresh fluid into the system. Speedbleeders are great to have also for DIY bleeding.

 

I have found, on the recommendation of IGOFAR (from ST-OWNERS.COM), that using a veterinary syringe or a child's aspirator (or a turkey baster, but don't tell anyone) to remove the fluid from whichever master cylinder you are bleeding and then filling with fresh fluid before beginning the process allows fresh fluid to appear at the bleeder much faster than pumping a master cylinder of old fluid through the bleeder.

 

Second all of the above. I'll also add, being it's a new to you bike, to remove the brake pedal and mechanisms and clean & lube; pretty simple to do. They have a tendency to gum up with all the road debris and not move freely which can lead to other issues. Of course that doesn't help with your excessive play.

Aw hell, while we're talking brakes and bleeds, do the same with the front brake and clutch levers. Pull and look at the cylindrical brass bushing in the clutch side for any wear. Replace if deformed (fairly inexpensive) and lube well. This will effect clutch feel.

 

Honestly I wouldnt mind going bigger bore on mine. Anyone know of a bike with the same style rear master but larger than 15mm?

 

I have thoughts on the FJR rear brakes.... first, had the '07 and the rear ABS was inop due to hydraulic unit with internal blockage in the ABS fluid circuit. The non-ABS circuit is always operative, however, I always thought the rear brake rather weak, never did much when I was trying to scrub off a little speed or trail brake. Two notable times, I skidded the rear wheel unexpectedly when only using rear brake, pucker moments. On the '14 the ABS worked, and with a car tire on (one would think more surface area less likely to skid), hit the rear brake to scrub off speed and skidded, almost a pucker moment. Of course, the real problem was not using any or enough front brake. Had a crash on another bike where rear skidded, ABS did not kick in.
Bottom line, just saying the rear brake is more powerful than you think and I wouldn't "upgrade" the rear master at all. One feature is there is a proportioning valve and a metering valve which limits how much of that front linked is activated, unless of course you stomp on it, then you got it all. I'll also say I like Honda linked brakes (they go both directions no matter you hit front or rear), and the FJR linked system is not my fave. The Honda systems likely trained me that you could get away with not using front brakes as much..... on the FJR, highly recommend using both at once, you'll be just fine.

 

Bottom line, just saying the rear brake is more powerful than you think and I wouldn't "upgrade" the rear master at all.

Going bigger on the rear brake mastercylinder bore diameter, if one is available, is going to reduce pedal travel and increase pedal effort though, making the rear brake harder to lock up or skid. I wouldnt call this so much as an "upgrade" as much as just tuning for my preferences.

 

If you would do it annually, you could keep your turkey baster in the kitchen and save on paper towels........

 

Flushing brakes annually is not something I am ever going to do. Hell, my 2009 ram still had the original stuff at 175000 miles. I flush brakes when they stop performing or the fluid gets dark.

 

Johnno,
Follow the shop manual, when bleeding the brakes. One front caliper gets bled first, then the rear. It helps to let the rear brake pedal snap upward by side-stepping the brake pedal after each press (because you will move more brake fluid that way). Then hang a heavy weight on the brake pedal overnight, to get the most air he system. Make sure that the weight does not make the brake light come on; otherwise it could drain the battery.

thanks again red, an obvious learning curve.

I can confirm Red is correct. I had a soft rear pedal until I used the overnight weight trick.