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N4HHE ,I kept asking because it's out of my comfort zone . But if it's an hour for you to get apart I'll go for it even if it takes me all day. I have to figure out a way to secure the bike but not worried. I may as well try as losing faith in shops.
If you can take front wheel off then getting the rest of it apart is easy.

Driving the old races out of the chassis is pretty easy. Just don't bang on the aluminum lip backing the race. Each lip has 2 half moon notches to get at the race.

This is the view from underneath after bottom race has been removed.



Hardest thing is to get the bottom inner race off. Next hardest is to install new upper and lower races in the chassis. You might be able to do without but a race driver eliminates the possibility of a drift slipping to mar the race or your aluminum chassis.

Did a friend's 2018 with 4,000 miles a month or two ago. He had lots of doubt but no more.
 
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Retorqued the steering bearing but wobble is still there. So need new bearings at 3200 mi as it's getting worse as it's too annoying to ride at this point. I want to learn to work on my own bike but don't see much detail on removing lower tree in Haynes manual. They imply I should already know what I am doing. Or is it difficult enough if I need to ask I shouldn't try?
Can't find it searching forum and give up. Is there a thread that covers the removal? Thanks, Jim
Hello Beacon, I just ordered All Balls fork seals and tapered bearings today from Sport Bike Track Gear. Both of those kits work for the 2003-2013 FJR's

All Balls Seals $19.23
https://www.sportbiketrackgear.com/all-balls-yamaha-fjr1300-03-13-fork-and-dust-seal-kit/

All Balls Tapered Bearings $32.75
https://www.sportbiketrackgear.com/all-balls-yamaha-fjr-1300-03-13-steering-stem-bearing-kit/

I was originally going to go with SKF fork seals on the advice of a couple of members, but I couldn't locate them online

Good luck

David
 

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I have done head bearings in 4 FJR's so far since 2018. I used an air chisel the 1st time on the lower race on the stem and made a couple marks but light filing with a fine file made all good. I have a monster flat blade screwdriver that I used to hammer out the upper and lower races in the frame. Putting the new races in the frame was using a punch and hammer as was driving the lower bearing down the stem. Took me 5 hrs the 1st time.

2nd time was air chisel and a pc of .020 flat stock aluminum so not to mark up the lower tree or stem. This time I bought a bearing driver made to put the lower bearing on the stem and worked great. The frame races came out with the big screwdriver again. To put the races back in the frame I used punch and hammer to get them started then made a press with 2 sockets (1 1/4 in), 4 big thick washers, 2 ft of 1/2 in threaded rod and used the long nuts that is used to put 2 pcs of threaded rod together. The sockets fit the races and as I tighten up the nuts the races slid into place. Went down to 3 hrs

3d and 4th time the only change was buying a longer small flat tip for the air chisel to pop the old races out of the frame. Did not make much difference in time but made the job easier

5th will be my friends this winter.

All times were done on the center stand ............................... and a lift. :cool::cool::cool::cool::cool:
 

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I was originally going to go with SKF fork seals on the advice of a couple of members, but I couldn't locate them online
There is one vendor claiming to have SKF seals for FJR but his P/N is a 43mm seal. In other words he doesn't have it either.

The OE seal and shield kit from Rocky Mountain may cost less than the All-Balls.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Thanks,I will order bearings after work. The pictures help now that I see what's in there I'll look for the notches . Thank you everyone for the advice as it now I think I can do it myself. Just going to take my time with it. Jim
 

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Any motorcycle tyre will have an arrow indicating direction of rotation. If it's incorrect it's MOT test fail in the UK.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Since its December I decide to replace the bearings myself as no shop really showed any interest in doing the job . The wobble had gotten to the point I could feel it all the time even with a light grip on the bars in the 40-50 mph range. Getting things apart was not too bad but was out of my comfort zone . Had the lower bearing pressed on at local machine shop for a few $. I ordered a motion pro race driver which I am waiting on to install races and put it back together. I was not having any luck getting the races back in and did not want to bang them up. Unfortunately a noreaster is on the way same day the race driver tool arrives so no test ride for awhile . My Front axel was pretty dry and starting to look a little rough so that needed to be looked at anyway . That and my fork has a NY inspection sticker from PO on it, so with fork out I can get that off too. Hopefully no suprises on assembly .
 

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I used some threaded rod, some large washers, a piece or two from a seal installer set I had, and the old bearing race to press the new ones into my VFR. If the threaded rod was a fine thread all the better. Gotta get the new bearing started in straight and once started, Ray's yer uncle.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Dang. I did not even think of that at the time as I'm not much of a mechanic. Tempted to try but may as well wait as tool is on it's way.
 

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The tool is probably better than trying to keep a bunch of stuff in line and aligned as you go. It's all doable, but the tool will be worth it.
 

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Discussion Starter #31 (Edited)
I'm having issues getting the lower race in. Slightly high on one side and cannot seat it. Any suggestions as I'm frustrated at this point. Just keep hammering till it goes?
Thanks,Jim
 

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I have a bearing driving kit that I used to get the lower one in. Had to use a long rod to have enough room to put a hammer on it. I have also seen others that got a 14 in. or so rod/screw that you would tighten and squeeze the two races into each other. this approach did not work for me so I just used the long rod and hammer method taking care to drive evenly. You could maybe used an old race with larger side on the new race.


good luck - that was the hardest part of the job for me.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
I'm just slightly higher on one side . I did get ther race driver but managed to fail anyway. Wondering if I shoiuld tap otherr side out slightly to line it up. First time doing this and trying to learn so don't want to go from bad to worse.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
I was able to go for a ride to test out the bearings after initial torque down. I hit a few bumps and it got too loose .Pulled it back in the garage and torqued down some more as the nut would be barely hand tight after the ride . Did that about 3 times and they seemed to have settled in . I have them at 13 Ft/lbs but may back off slightly as it's a little heavy at low speed . The bike now tracks straight as before it pulled left even after resetting the axel and pinch bolts . No wobble and does not sound like a dump truck when I hit poor pavement as it used to . The old bearings looked good to me which is not saying much but it's done . I appreciate everyone's advice as it was unknown territory for me and the obvious is not always obvious to me. I hope I did not screw them up with too little torque or that they may not have been seated as they should ion the first ride. Need some more miles but ice on roads prevents leaving the immediate area.
Thanks,Jim
 

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Jim,

I generally torque fresh tapered head bearings to 15-18 ft/lbs and then ride it for. 100-150 mi & retorque them again to the 15-18 ft/lbs. I will add that I initially take them to 30 or so and then take them to zero before torquing them to the 15-18 ft/lbs. turn the forks lock to lock multiple times and then repeat the whole thing again. Once you’ve done this a couple of times set it to the 15-18 ft/lbs and put it all together and go ride for the 100-150mi.

I will add that be prepared because it will hunt a bit in the steering for a bit but I have found that it will loosen and steer fine. On mine it really made things feel tighter and much more precise. Good luck !
 

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Discussion Starter #36
I may be able to go out next week end if no ice . I'll torque it down a couple more pounds and se how it is. Thank you.
 

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Retorqued the steering bearing but wobble is still there. So need new bearings at 3200 mi as it's getting worse as it's too annoying to ride at this point. I want to learn to work on my own bike but don't see much detail on removing lower tree in Haynes manual. They imply I should already know what I am doing. Or is it difficult enough if I need to ask I shouldn't try?
Can't find it searching forum and give up. Is there a thread that covers the removal? Thanks, Jim
what year ????

cant imagine bearings being out at 3200 miles

when did the wobble start ??
 
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