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2010 fjr1300
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51 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Twice ,in the last couple of weeks, after around a 25 mile ride or so I pulled over to shop. Upon returning to my 2010 fjr I went to start it. It cranked ever so slowly but both times fired up. Stopped again less than 5 miles later , shut bike down and restarted…. No problem. Bike starts fine each morning and through out the day but those two incidents have me worried. Any thoughts on where/what the most likely culprit is will be greatly appreciated. My mechanical skills are ok but my electrical skills leave much to be desired. Tks.
 

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FJR1300A 2008
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2,115 Posts
Bigdeal,

Corroded cable ends can give you those symptoms. Clean the cable ends shiny-bright, and the battery terminals too. If the battery bolts are corroded, replace them with new (dedicated) battery bolts from the auto parts store, not common hardware. Take an old battery bolt in with you, to show what you need. Since the major hardware worked as it should, chances are that the items you mentioned are still good. Clean their hardware connections also.
The auto parts store will have small fine-wire brushes for help with clean-up. Note: all cables have two ends.

The auto parts store can also load-test your battery, usually for free. The load test is the only good check of a battery's condition. I use OEM batteries (Yuasa). The cheapies may not last long.
 
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Sounds just like my BMW RT. The battery tested out good, but failed to start once and scared me a couple of times after that. I got a Chrome (brand) battery from Amazon that is rated for 320 CCA. No problem starting since. It is a cheapie, less than $70, but so far, so good.
 

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2010 fjr1300
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51 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Much thanks Red and Judge. Amazing how our (my) brains go straight to worst case scenario, completely bypassing the simplest solutions . I’ll give the terminals a go and report back. 😊
 

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I had a starter go bad too. Symptons are hot slow start or hot no start. Cold starts are not a problem, but problem hot starts on a hot day could very well indicate a bad starter. High current draw is a dead giveaway. Alternator rebuild shops will usually test for free. but getting it out of the bowels of the FJR might be a bit much for non-wrenchers.

Check the simple stuff first. You need clean and tight battery connections. Also, battery at rest voltage should exceed 12.8 volts, but down to 12.65 might still be OK sometimes. Battery load tests are preferred but not necessary.

Some others in the past have reported a bad starter solenoid, but rarely, and I'm not really familiar with that.
 

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A long shot, but . . .

Something to keep in mind: The FJR alternator, by the Book, is supposed to deliver its full power at 4000 rpm. If you spend a lot of time idling around town or stuck in stop 'n go traffic, the alternator may not be spinning fast enough to keep the battery charged.
 

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Versys 1000, VFR800
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11,281 Posts
Doesn't sound like a stator issue...... John you'll find the full charging voltage, despite the specs, is usually reached just north of 2500 rpm.......
 
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I'm not surprised. With the exception of spark plug intervals, MamaYama's specs are pretty conservative. I can recall only once where I was starting to get really nervous about draining my battery. I got caught in a massive traffic pile up on I-10 in Louisiana and couldn't get off the road.
 

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My 2006 FJR would only crank slowly from cold. Once started it was fine all day. Eventually I replaced the starter and that transformed the starting. I'd replaced the battery twice over a year. Wish I'd changed the starter first but it is a bit of a job to get at. I was lucky to get a late low mileage starter on ebay for £50.00.
 

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Versys 1000, VFR800
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One of the first things I do with any bike is to install a voltmeter so I can monitor the charging voltage while riding. You can vary the accessory loads to keep it around 13V, which is not yet using battery to power them..... OK for a while if less than say 12.5V, but at some point you'll need to re-charge the battery..... the FJR however has a very good stator output compared to other bikes.
 

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One of the first things I do with any bike is to install a voltmeter so I can monitor the charging voltage while riding. You can vary the accessory loads to keep it around 13V, which is not yet using battery to power them..... OK for a while if less than say 12.5V, but at some point you'll need to re-charge the battery..... the FJR however has a very good stator output compared to other bikes.
+1

 

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98 VFR800, 2013 FJR1300A
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One of the first things I do with any bike is to install a voltmeter so I can monitor the charging voltage while riding. You can vary the accessory loads to keep it around 13V, which is not yet using battery to power them..... OK for a while if less than say 12.5V, but at some point you'll need to re-charge the battery..... the FJR however has a very good stator output compared to other bikes.
Spoken like a VFR owner....:)
 

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2015 FJR-1300ESF
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522 Posts
I've been thinking about a voltmeter.

Might go with a Signal Dynamics Heads Up LED, again.

Had one on my Vstrom for years. Amongst other features, it is compact. You can install the "display" (multi-color LED) nearly anywhere. Drill a hole in a panel if you like, or don't, the LED is weatherproofed and reasonably rugged. I could probably get away with zip-tying it to the triple tree.

The Signal Dynamics people were great to deal with. I had to call them a couple of times for replacement parts. They sent me free replacement panel bezels (broken through clumsiness), and once a replacement LED (broken by a shop, doing unrelated work on the bike).

Some don't like the Heads Up because it's a color-coded LED, instead of numerical display. That's why I do like it.
 

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