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There have been a lot of posts on the forum about battery access. For sure it is a fiddly pain in the arse job, but it isn’t rocket science. The strange thing is, with all the grumblings about removing a few screws and snap rivets, nobody seems to have spared a thought for centralisation of mass, and just what a terrible design sin Yamaha committed by mounting that heavy lump so high and so far away from the centre of the machine. Its not like they are unaware of the concept! If it’s heavy, keep it low and in the middle. Yamaha went to all the trouble of that lovely stacked gearbox to get the crankshaft and its rotating mass centralised, making it possible to position the swingarm pivot at the heart of things. Wrap the package in an aluminium frame that fits tighter than Trinity’s pants! Then throw away their design ethic and bolt a massive lump next to the headstock! Suddenly it looks like Trinity has dumped in the back of her pants! Just doesn’t fit with that sleek image. Just maybe they could have offered a storage compartment in the same space? Up in the fairing, that is, not the back of Trinity’s pants. I bought my bike as an insurance write off from a salvage company. When I picked it up the plastics on the right hand side were wiped off and the mashed remains of the battery cradle were exposed for all to see. After stripping away all of the damaged parts it was decision time - do I buy into the same design sin as Yamaha and hand them my cash for a replacement battery mount? No way - I move the battery. I had the back end stripped out to replace the rear sub-frame anyway. I could see that with a little tidying there was enough room to mount the battery between the back of the air box the rear mudguard. I cut away the surplus plastic from the front of the inner rear mudguard (fender) this seems to act as a baffle to cut down induction noise. Why the design team at Yamaha did not opt for a little fresh cool and dense ram-air ducted in from the front of the fairing, and at the same time maybe use a little ducted air to help with the heat problem, will have to stay a mystery (after all, their fellow countrymen are still killing whales and eating raw fish so let’s not expect too much). I repositioned the ECU vertically on the back of my new battery tray (no need to modify the wiring loom). I had to do away with the strange little nibbles tray, but hell it’s a big deal removing the seat to serve pretzels. I made a dummy tin battery box as a pattern to make sure all would fit properly, took it to a friend who just happens to be a welder and fabricator and he folded me a stainless steel battery box to match my pattern (thanks Elvis). Ok, so now the battery sits pretty under the seat. The battery box makes a good mounting point for relays and fuses for the aux power requirements and the ECU. I fitted a replacement negative cable from the battery to the motor and made a long cable to run from the positive to the main starter relay up on the headstock. There were some components mounted on the original mashed battery mounting frame ignition coil main fuse holder etc, all of which I mounted on to the main frame without too much trouble.

WHY BOTHER? Well try holding your battery out at arms length, shoulder high, then gauge how much force is required to swing from left to right and feel how much effort it takes to change direction, then hold it in close to your waist and try the same thing! It makes me feel good to make an improvement of my own making rather than just following the flock, and as we flick from left to right through tight mountain passes there is a big smile on my face knowing it’s that bit sweeter because I put that battery under my butt. In closing, think about the arms length test with a tank full of gas! Then ask yourself what it would be like if the air box and the gas tank swapped places!!
 

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Esmerelda said:
In closing, think about the arms length test with a tank full of gas! Then ask yourself what it would be like if the air box and the gas tank swapped places!!
Honda had that one figured out with the ST1100. Thing was heavy as a Sherman tank, but handled surprisingly well.

Excellent stuff here! Good work.

:)
 

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If you are going to ride a touring machine 2 up, panniers, top box and tank bag what difference where a battery is??

Or am I being picky :?

Teejay
 

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I just installed an Audiovox cruise last weekend, so I had the side panels off and the tool tray removed. My first thought was that there's enough room for the battery under the tool tray, so why didn't Yamaha put it there?

My second thought, though, was related to the complaints of a too-weak alternator output. What if we mounted a second battery under the tool tray, to help out when the current draw is more than the alternator can provide? You know, like they do on boats and 4x4's, using an isolator to keep the starting battery separate from the accessories. The primary battery would be for starting and running the engine, while the second battery would be for everything else, with the isolator making sure both get charged when necessary. Has anyone done that?
 

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BugR said:
dbx,
I'm guessing you don't have ABS, that's where the unit's installed.
Chris
Correct! :wink:
Well, I guess it's not one size fits all then. I actually thought the ABS stuff was located just a bit farther to the right, under that long narrow side panel. Thanks for the correction.

Jeff
 

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Actually the location of the battery was cussed and discussed before the first 2003 model hit the shores of the USA. Articles in MCNews and on this forum bemoaned the location. Given the space constraints Yammy had it was an interesting discussion. With the advent of ABS, the few optional locations became fewer.

Between then and now it seems no one was bothered by the location enough to work out a mod to address their concerns. Thanks.

How about pulling a Uni-Go trailer and mounting a bank of batteries back there? :ale:
 
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