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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well I will preface this by saying that sadly I am not the most gifted with a spanner!

Tried to get at the battery last night to wire my Oximiser. Got to the negative terminal in a flash (so to speak!) but can I remove the panel to get to the positive terminal - no. The handbook says remove the 2 quick fasteners and remove, but what is the trick here? :?
 

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CarMan said:
Well I will preface this by saying that sadly I am not the most gifted with a spanner!

Tried to get at the battery last night to wire my Oximiser. Got to the negative terminal in a flash (so to speak!) but can I remove the panel to get to the positive terminal - no. The handbook says remove the 2 quick fasteners and remove, but what is the trick here? :?
To remove the second plastic shield you will find 2 Stainless bolts and 1 Quick fastener which is in the centre underneath the clocks.

Then a bit of jiggling to get it off.
 

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And when you are hauling on the spanner to undo the terminal, be very careful not to slip & let the other end of the spanner touch anything metal or it gets a bit more exciting - of course no one would be stupid enough to do that :oops:
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thank you one and all - sounds perfectly simple so with renewed confidence I shall try again later. :D
 

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AND...When you remove the + / - terminals, there is a small rectangular piece of metal under the terminal that you screw into, take care these dont drop out of the battery and into the bodywork as they are a bastid' to find...especially when you dont even realise you've lost one, till you go to put battery back and dont know where it fell out...or so they tell me *cough*.. :oops:
 

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AND...In case you havn't sussed it yet, you remove the quick fasteners by pressing the little bit in the middle in, then make sure the middle bit bit is pushed out to put back again, take care not to force these as they are not that strong and can break fairly easily...Have fun.. :lol:
 

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AND...When you remove the + / - terminals, there is a small rectangular piece of metal under the terminal that you screw into
I find it helpful to slide a sliver of matchstick or piece of card under these to help offer them back up to the screw, they can be buggers to get back into, particulary if you already have a few extra's wired to the battery.
 

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The quick fastener under clocks on mine is the screw type not the push type.
 

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While we are on the subject, I think its a crazy idea hiding the battery away inside the fairing, especially a battery that causes so much bother. They might have at least fitted a flip lid in the panels to make it more accessible for charging Etc. God knows how many times I got up on a Sunday morning, got all the gear on, only to find the bike went 'click' when the button was pushed.
Gear off, panels off, jump start, panels on, a Royal pain in the ass. Sorted later with a battery tender, but a thoughtless design...just my tuppenceworth :crylarf:
 

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Ok, my turn - from old, old threads.

Before removing panel D, it can be made much easier by lifting the front end of the petrol tank first and proping it up. Gives a lot more room and avoids damaging the tank which others have done.

Look at the pic of panel C held in the left hand.

Just above the thumb, to the right, is a locating lug. This makes it a tw...t to get the panel back on. You can bend, shove, curse, swear, fart and the bugger still does not go back on - then all of a sudden it does and you wonder what the problem was.

The trick is to grind/file off some of the top of that lug - say half way - then the panel pops back on much easier and still remains in place the way it should. I did this many, many moons ago and it don't half make a difference.

Swop the philips head screw type fastener under the clocks for a push button type, it's a lot easier. Or, leave the bugger off altogether (I did).

That is 11 pence worth...... :lol:
 

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Well, after reading all of our *Advice*, I can picture CarMan sitting in front of his computer screen, blinking wildly, rocking gently with just a bit of dribble running out of one corner of his mouth.... :shock:... :mrgreen:
 

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Ignore the humours coments. Indeed this is a very technical job. Involving a range of tools ,not to be found in a standard FJR tool kit.
First you need to do a few careful calculations. This is important to detemine the angles for removing the panel and indeed replaceing.
xy}* x 15% 45oc 6453 over 11.5% Devided by the remanider. This gives you the correct yank it out angle and the relevent shove it back in angle.

This may sound stupid to some of you , lets say ...less technicaly minded. But this way ensures that the tab on the front end of bit , goes back in underneath the tab on the main panel bit. Do you see where I am coming form? Good. Lets continue...

Tools required to do the job proper.
But first read the safety manuals. Do a full risk assessment and proudce a method statement , prior to starting.
Loads of specialized tools , that are expensive and you will only ever use once are required.
Right , undo atleast 23 of them there hex head screws. dont realy need to undo all of them, just means damm sure you have removed the right ones this way. So when your pulling like mad and wondering why it wont come off, no screw has been left undone.
The rest of the task can easy be done with a hammer, including puting it back together again.
I do hope this has been of use , and you no longer have to put up with nonsense from others tut tut..........
I get fed up with clowns messing sensible threads up all the time.
 

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Damn....I feel so ashamed.. :oops:


So on a serious note..(no ..Honestly)..dont over-tighten the panel screws when putting them back as the panels may crack around the screw holes due to the plastic being shite..
 

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OH..and I hope your getting all this..we will be asking questions later.. :?
 

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I find if you swear at the bike it often makes those "simple " jobs much easier :oops:
 
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