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I'm actually looking for something to work on my UTV. I discovered my lawnmower key will start my UTV.

What I want is to have to carry an RFID key FOB as well as the key to start the engine.
 

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There are also man-in-the-middle exploits where thieves can use a box to extend the signal strength from a fob it "sees" in the house out to the vehicle they are stealing.

That, along with the very real possibility of leaving the fob on the top of a gas pump, starting up and leaving, only to find you can't restart the bike when you stop down the road (no fob close enough).

But then all these were discussed when the C14 included it and owners started reporting in.

This was the first hit that came up with a simple search.

 

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This is something that keeps me up at night (I'm literally up at 4am)!

Motorcycle Jackings happen at intersections and gas stations. I have been looking at different types of Fobs and immobilizers for months. Most I see are close proximity, aftermarket key and lock replacement, spliced FOB recognition module or total replacement of key and lock for phone recognition module. I want something that communicates with my smart watch. Cause If you get jacked at a light you don't have time to grab your phone from the cradle. So many Ideals about this its difficult to get it drawn out. I've even thought about something like a lanyard to disable that you would find on a water craft or snow sled.

Clifford and Viper alarms can offer different types of systems as well. My own concerns about more electronics on the bike is Parasitic draw. Not to mention you now have something else to hide somewhere in the bike. Where is the key FOB ususally located at? The Key chain to the vehicle.
 

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If I understand it corrrectly, the cars with Push To Start are vulnerable, as the fob is generating a signal all the time. On my car, for proximity entry, I must be within 6 feet to be able to unlock the doors, and the fob must be inside the vehicle to start it. So the would-be thief has to be able to get 6 feet away from my fob to copy its code. For non-Push To Start, the fob does not have such signal until you push a button to send a signal (to unlock doors, or remote start).
I had a Scorpio alarm on a previous bike, and yes it does add to parasitic draw. When armed, it would chirp if someone got too close to your bike, and would send an alert to the remote, which is presumably in your pocket, up to say half mile away. It also had a feature where you could wire it in to immobilize the ignition, should said thief ignore the alarm and hotwire your bike somehow, get it started and ride off.
Apparently that's not how bike thieves steal an alarmed bike... they either intentionally activate the alarm and kill the battery some minutes later, then load your bike onto a trailer. Or ignore the alarm while loading your bike onto a trailer. But, what is the risk of someone wanting an FJR... who are they going to sell those parts to?
 

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Those distances are based on the strength of the broadcast radio and the antenna on each end (send/receive). Give the space within a FOB, those are limited. Put all the needed radios and antennas inside a box and you can boost both send and receive. That's how those man-in-the-middle attacks work at greater distances.
 

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If I understand it corrrectly, the cars with Push To Start are vulnerable, as the fob is generating a signal all the time. On my car, for proximity entry, I must be within 6 feet to be able to unlock the doors, and the fob must be inside the vehicle to start it. So the would-be thief has to be able to get 6 feet away from my fob to copy its code. For non-Push To Start, the fob does not have such signal until you push a button to send a signal (to unlock doors, or remote start).
I had a Scorpio alarm on a previous bike, and yes it does add to parasitic draw. When armed, it would chirp if someone got too close to your bike, and would send an alert to the remote, which is presumably in your pocket, up to say half mile away. It also had a feature where you could wire it in to immobilize the ignition, should said thief ignore the alarm and hotwire your bike somehow, get it started and ride off.
Apparently that's not how bike thieves steal an alarmed bike... they either intentionally activate the alarm and kill the battery some minutes later, then load your bike onto a trailer. Or ignore the alarm while loading your bike onto a trailer. But, what is the risk of someone wanting an FJR... who are they going to sell those parts to?
I was just looking into simple motion based alarms the other night that come with a remote or two. Just for added piece of mind if I'm sleeping in a tent or in a motel and it goes off I can go look, and point a gun at someone if they are attempting to steal :LOL: . Do you have any suggestions for an affordable/quality one?

You also have the option of sticking a little GPS tracker under the seat or in a hidden spot in case someone does actually get it.
 

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This is something that keeps me up at night (I'm literally up at 4am)!

Motorcycle Jackings happen at intersections and gas stations. I have been looking at different types of Fobs and immobilizers for months. Most I see are close proximity, aftermarket key and lock replacement, spliced FOB recognition module or total replacement of key and lock for phone recognition module. I want something that communicates with my smart watch. Cause If you get jacked at a light you don't have time to grab your phone from the cradle. So many Ideals about this its difficult to get it drawn out. I've even thought about something like a lanyard to disable that you would find on a water craft or snow sled.

Clifford and Viper alarms can offer different types of systems as well. My own concerns about more electronics on the bike is Parasitic draw. Not to mention you now have something else to hide somewhere in the bike. Where is the key FOB ususally located at? The Key chain to the vehicle.
Never heard of a motorcycle jacking - but it seems like dropping the bike would put a quick end to that
 
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