[Randy_B]

On some other thread I cannot seem to locate even with the search function, someone recommended to me to but an Admore harness for hooking up my aux farkles. Even after reading their website, I still am lost as to how this works. Where does this thing plug in? Is it basically an in-line addition to an existing circuit with a couple of power lines coming out?

On my first bike, I used a T-Tap wire connector on the signal/running lights to allow the provided relay circuit energize only when the ignition was on. The relay circuit had it's own on/off toggle. Worked fine. I also have an after market horn and cosmetic lighting also running on their own isolated relays direct from the battery. The horn is activated by the oem wiring and the cosmetic lighting is hooked directly into the battery with a separate remote. I realize now that this was a mistake as the cosmetic lights always pull power even with the bike and lights shut off.

So on the second bike, I was hoping to come up with an arrangement to clean up all the wires around the battery and it will be easier since I am installing all 3 systems at the same time. Ideally, I am hoping to have one wire that activates the relays when the ignition is on, and another high current wire from the battery to the relays such that there is only one high draw wire instead of three - or in my current set-up, I have one extra +ve lead coming off the battery that splits in to three - each going to their own relay.

I like the fuse tap idea rather than the T-Tap set-up I currently use.

 

[rbentnail]

Under the left side cover, where the air filter is, is a connector for all the rear lighting. Unplug it, insert Admore harness. It's that simple.

 

[Randy_B]

Perfect. Thanks

 

[BigOgre]

Instead of multiple relays have you considered a fuse block of some sort? There's a few on the market to choose from but here's a link to Fuzeblock's FZ-1 which I've had luck with. Only one connection to the battery, expandable for future farkles and easy to change anything connected back and forth from switched and unswitched.

 

[Randy_B]

Instead of multiple relays have you considered a fuse block of some sort? There's a few on the market to choose from but here's a link to Fuzeblock's FZ-1 which I've had luck with. Only one connection to the battery, expandable for future farkles and easy to change anything connected back and forth from switched and unswitched.

A couple of others have suggested that but I elected not go this way. Since all of the farkles I will be installing (except one) require a relay because of the current draw, I didnt see how a fuse box would make things any easier. But, maybe I am missing something.

 

[BigOgre]

The FZ-1 has it's own relay which powers each of the connections. Their description from the link I posted:

The Fuzeblock FZ-1 is a fuse block that was designed from the ground up by a motorcyclist, for motorcyclists. This feature packed fuse block combines an integrated relay with the ability to switch from constant power to switched power on any of it's 6 circiuts simply by moving a fuse to the left or the right. What that means to you the installer is no more hunting for a location for a fuse block, a relay, and maybe even a second fuse block if you want to run both constant and switched power accessories.​

With the Fuzeblock FZ-1 all you need is a space large enough to accommodate it, a 12V wire from the battery, a ground wire to the battery, and a switched trigger wire. Once you have those connected you can start wiring up your accessories. Easy to Install​

If you wanted I think you could purchase the Admore harness Russ talked about and use that as the switched trigger wire if you didn't want to break into any lines.

 

[RiderJoe]

If money is not much of a concern for a very nice solution, check out the Amplink module. All in one waterproof package, relays and fuses, And you control and monitor everything via your mobile phone.

 

[Mopheadama]

FYI

The Admore harness is for hooking up lights. Are you hooking up anything besides lights? I used this harness to hook up my Skene flashing brake lights. No relay needed.
Shown below from their website.

Functionality provided:

• Tail light
• Brake light
• Turn signals (and hazard lights)

 

[bmatic]

Also used the Admore harness with brake/turning lights... it makes it really easy and you don't have to splice into existing wiring which is the main reason I got it.

 

[JohnC]

Agree with bmatic. You want to molest the factory wiring as little as possible. In the case of the Admore harness, you disconnect the 6 pin connector (5 lines used) from the main harness feeding the rear light assembly and plug the harness into the two open connectors. The source connector has two wires per pin, one feeding the output connector feeding the rear light assembly and one unterminated wire for the Admore LEDs. The harness means that you do not need to splice into the factory wiring.

You can use the harness to connect other accessories as long as you watch the overall current consumption (may want more relays to handle more current.

In addition to the Admore LEDs, I also have an FZ-1 installed under my seat. It has a 40 amp relay controlling the switched circuits. I run the battery power under the tank to the FZ-1. There are other alternatives, ranging from less expensive to more, to the FZ-1.

The only connection to the OEM harness is the switching signal for the relay (absolutely no help for that). I pick that off from the license plate light. The whole point of all this is that any failure of any accessories connected can be isolated from the OEM wiring. All of this gives me three levels of protection: fuses (main and aux), power switches, and if worse comes to worse, disconnecting everything and restoring the wiring to stock.

BTW, you should always fuse all accessories.

 

[bmatic]

...The only connection to the OEM harness is the switching signal for the relay (absolutely no help for that)...

You can use the Admore harness and tap into the block for the switching signal and even eliminate that splice.

 

[JohnC]

TBH, if I had installed the Admore before the FZ-1, that might have occurred to me. I used a Posi-tap for the relay trigger, so I wasn't too concerned with hacking up the bike wiring.