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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I found a useful post from Uncle Fester that described a problem with respect to the RPM at which the clutch engages on the FJR 1300.
If the setting is not optimal, you will experience clutch chatter when the bike tries to switch between gears.
On my FJR this chatter is quite violent until the bike is either very warm, usually after several minutes of riding or if you “force the issue” by holding the front break and increase the revs until the chatter eventually stops.
In addition to being annoying, this chatter is a bit dangerous, particularly if the bike slips into and out of gear while cornering at slow speeds.
In the article, Uncle Fester described entering diagnostics mode and then mode toggling to a specific setting (Sh_66) to adjust the clutch engagement position.
I purchased the ABS test coupler adopter as was recommended in a related post to be able to enter / modify settings.
I can get to the D1AG menu (repeating instructions here in case anyone needs them … key off, kill switch on, press and hold RESET and SELECT together. While continuing to hold, turn on key and hold for about 8 seconds and then a screen will appear that reads D1AG).
Once in the diagnostic menu if I press and hold the Select and Reset buttons for about 2 seconds I get to another screen where I can toggle though a whole series of diagnostic codes using the Select or Reset buttons but don’t see how to get to “Sh_66” as recommended.
If anyone has experience or advice how to “mode toggle” to “Sh_66” so I can follow the rest of the guidance from Uncle Fester that would be greatly appreciate.
Happy trails!
 

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I read Uncle Festers write-up on another forum, and while he generally outlines the concept of adjusting the YCCS engagement point, he leaves out a LOT of the detail necessary to actually accomplish the desired results.

So, let me start by asking if you have a Yamaha Service Manual??
If so, read the section pages 8-170 thru 8-179.

There is a different test connector, and a different procedure to get to the YCCS Diag Screen than to get to the regular Diag Screen. You can use the same ABS test coupler on the other connector though.

There are several gottcha's in that process.
I have spent a lot of time fooling with that particular process in the past, and learned several beneficial lessons that are not well explained in the service manual.


I will point out that there is a fatal error on page 8-179 where it says:

To write the changed setting on EEPROM,
push the hand shift select button
for 0.3 second. After the button is
pushed, the hand shift select indicator
light will come on for 2 seconds.


It should say 3.0 seconds !!!



Too much of anything is bad, but too much good whisky is barely enough. -- Mark Twain
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
First, thanks very much for the reply. This is informative and helpful.

I don’t actually have a service manual for the FJR, but will look for one now.

Thank you especially for the tip indicating the typo or the correction needed to the procedure outlined in the manual.

One follow-up question, with your experience having worked on this type of issue before, is the procedure ultimately successful resolving that clunky clutch engagement?

in the meantime, I am on to step two of the project … RTFM.
 

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One follow-up question, with your experience having worked on this type of issue before, is the procedure ultimately successful resolving that clunky clutch engagement?

Adjusting the clutch engagement rpm does make a difference in the clutch operation, and may increase or decrease the amount of clutch chatter when first starting out from a stop, depending on the adjustment level.
However, the MCU (computer) does what it wants to according to it's shift programming, and nothing you can do changes the shift program, other than the engagement rpm.

Many report various techniques for dealing with the clutch chatter issue, and most report that it is only an issue on the first couple of starts until the clutch warms up. In my experience and opinion the clutch warming up is not the same as the engine warming up

Ultimately, it is a combination of clutch engagement rpm setting, and the user learning how the computer programming works and learning to drive to satisfy the computer. IMHO there are some techniques that work better than others, and some are contrary to what others report.


dan

In theory, there is no difference between theory and practice. But, in practice, there is. -- Albert Einstein
 

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First, thanks very much for the reply. This is informative and helpful.

I don’t actually have a service manual for the FJR, but will look for one now.

Thank you especially for the tip indicating the typo or the correction needed to the procedure outlined in the manual.

One follow-up question, with your experience having worked on this type of issue before, is the procedure ultimately successful resolving that clunky clutch engagement?

in the meantime, I am on to step two of the project … RTFM.


Check your PM.
 

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In addition to what you're doing..... Wondering if you could reduce some of that chatter by also doing a clutch soak. You'll find most of the clutch plates dry except the two inner ones. They could all do with a cleaning and a good coating of oil.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks RaYzerman

When I first noticed the problem, I assumed clutch plates needed replacement / soak. I replaced them but unfortunately it didn’t resolve the issue for me.
I am planning to tackle the RPM adjustment this weekend, unless the amazing weather we have been having holds up in which case I will tackle floating in the pool!

Appreciate the response!

Go Leafs Go!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
RESOLVED.

In my case, the chatter was there from when I first imported the bike from the States with under 3000 miles on it. I had tried soaking the clutch, replacing the clutch plates, etc. but these did not resolve the issue.

I decided to try clutch engagement RPM adjustment and purchased the ABS test adopter harness.

As I am equal parts inquisitive and lazy, I decided to have my local Yamaha shop a make the adjustment for me while I had my bike in the shop to get new rubber put on.

The mechanic followed the procedure in the service manual to adjust the Clutch engagement RPM setting and also flushed the master cylinder.

I my case, the work order reports he increased the setting by 500 RPM.

Shifting is now smooth through all gears both warm and cold riding.

If you’re tinkering with the settings in the service manual, recommend following advice I was given (thank you) to take note of starting position before you begin making adjustments if you want to be able to put it back to its original setting.

There are 21 possible adjustment positions, so the starting point can be determined by moving either all the way to the last setting on the upper level or conversely all the way to the last setting on the lowest level.

Again, recommend keeping track of this in case you need to put it back to the original setting later.

Thanks everybody who weighed in with advice and support I’m looking forward to smooth ride on the FJR from this point!
 
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