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Hey guys,

I bought a 2020 and everything was fine until around 9k miles. I got new tires put on (Pilot Road GT 6's) and headed to Florida. At some point in the next 1.5k miles the steering would shake around 45ish. When I got back to NC I had the shop check the tires, and they were still balanced. I have read a lot on here about the steering head bearings, and changing over to tapered. The shop says they can swap them out, but is there anything else I should check before I do that?

Also, what is the recommended brand / type to go with? Could you possibly link me?

Thanks.
I bought a 2019 brand new and found I had the same issue about 10K in. I had replaced the tires and added a trunk and found at speeds between 25 and 45 the front end would wobble if I didn't keep enough pressure on the handlebars. I took the bike in the first time and they did the routine checks and couldn't find anything but they wanted me to make another appointment so the bike could be there for a couple of days. During the second appointment they torn both the front and rear ends out the to check the frame and make sure all mounting parts were correct and torqued properly. After this the bike still did the same thing so they wanted to replace the tires again and I told them only if they guarantee it fixes the issue, they weren't going to guarantee this so I waiting a few thousand mile and took it back to have the tires replaced. The tire replacement didn't fix it so it had to go back one more time and they brought in a tech from the factory to look at it. The took the side bags and trunk off for the tech to ride and feel out the bike and said he couldn't feel the problem. My normal tech rode the bike the same way and called me to tell me they could feel the issue anymore. They loaded the bags back on and the issue was back.
The bottom line we found in my case was the rear trunk with the windscreen at the most up position was causing turbulence and shaking the front end. I could believe this but I have done the A, B, A test and number of times and fully agree with this.

Good luck!
 

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Now THAT was interesting! I don't think I've ever read a post that discussed aftermarket goodies causing the head shake but if it fixed your issue, great!
 

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No way am I going to install tapered rollers to cover up the wobble that goes away by keeping my hands on the bars.
I used to think that in the beginning too. Until I had leaking fork seals. Twice repaired under warranty. I have no idea how true this is but I'm convinced stopping the bars from moving stresses the forks as the wheel still wobbles.
 

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Re: cases, trunk & screen causing wobble....Cases on or off makes no difference on mine. Have not even had the trunk on since I learned it wobbled. I always ride (highway) with the screen up......I dont think it will make a difference but will lower it & give it a try next time.
 

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My 2018 developed a speed wobble from new, most pronounced around 90kph. Re-torquing the SHB made the speed wobble happen at a higher speed. Replacing the POS OEM bearings with all balls tapered roller bearings solved the problem.
 

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I used to think that in the beginning too. Until I had leaking fork seals. Twice repaired under warranty. I have no idea how true this is but I'm convinced stopping the bars from moving stresses the forks as the wheel still wobbles.
You know I've had that thought as well and I certainly can't disagree with you. I think tire tread pattern has a lot to do with the shake and I know that was true with my bike. Having said that it concerns me that the shake is beginning again and the tires are getting close to replacement but not there yet and I can't see replacing tires ahead of time because of the shake. Could be the tapered roller bearings are the answer. I'd feel a lot better about this if Yamaha would have addressed the issue with a fix like OEM roller bearings. I'm kind of a believer in OEM but this might be an exception.
 

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You know I've had that thought as well and I certainly can't disagree with you. I think tire tread pattern has a lot to do with the shake and I know that was true with my bike. Having said that it concerns me that the shake is beginning again and the tires are getting close to replacement but not there yet and I can't see replacing tires ahead of time because of the shake. Could be the tapered roller bearings are the answer. I'd feel a lot better about this if Yamaha would have addressed the issue with a fix like OEM roller bearings. I'm kind of a believer in OEM but this might be an exception.
I've said many times what my problems were and how it happened with multiple brands of tires so I don't buy the tread pattern argument. There were some things for me that made the wobble go away temporarily but it always came back. Tapered roller bearings, with 2 different FJRs, is the only permanent solution I found. Simple. As. That.
 

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I bought a 2019 brand new and found I had the same issue about 10K in. I had replaced the tires and added a trunk and found at speeds between 25 and 45 the front end would wobble if I didn't keep enough pressure on the handlebars. I took the bike in the first time and they did the routine checks and couldn't find anything but they wanted me to make another appointment so the bike could be there for a couple of days. During the second appointment they torn both the front and rear ends out the to check the frame and make sure all mounting parts were correct and torqued properly. After this the bike still did the same thing so they wanted to replace the tires again and I told them only if they guarantee it fixes the issue, they weren't going to guarantee this so I waiting a few thousand mile and took it back to have the tires replaced. The tire replacement didn't fix it so it had to go back one more time and they brought in a tech from the factory to look at it. The took the side bags and trunk off for the tech to ride and feel out the bike and said he couldn't feel the problem. My normal tech rode the bike the same way and called me to tell me they could feel the issue anymore. They loaded the bags back on and the issue was back.
The bottom line we found in my case was the rear trunk with the windscreen at the most up position was causing turbulence and shaking the front end. I could believe this but I have done the A, B, A test and number of times and fully agree with this.

Good luck!
First question I'll ask is what are all your suspension settings..... is this an A model or ES?
 

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I've been thinking (dangerous) more about this and I've got a question. The handlebars attach to the top of the steering head as we all know. The tapered roller bearings also are are part of the steering head assembly. So, by tightening the steering head with more bearing surface to damp out the oscillations aren't you really accomplishing the same exact same thing that your hands on the handlebars do? Maybe Yamaha has a good point when they say to just keep your hands on the handlebars because doing so certainly does damp out the oscillations much the same as your tapered roller bearings would do.

I once owned a BMW R75/6 that would go into violent steering head oscillations at around 70 mph hands on handlebars or not and Beemers, I believe, all use tapered roller bearings in the steering head. In this case the bearings had a flat spot in them and needed replacement. Bike had about 70K miles on it. I think tapered roller bearings are designed to be used in applications like wheel axles where they see a constantly rotating environment which is not the case in a motorcycle steering head. Hence, Yamaha uses ball bearings in the steering head. I also believe hands on handlebars would damp out oscillations much the same as increased bearing surface would especially when oscillations occur only during deceleration in a somewhat narrow band below around 40 mph.

My '10 FJR when I bought it only had 950 original miles and had the OEM tires on it and it displayed this typical decel oscillation which completely disappeared when I mounted the new PR2 tires and only now mildly returns after over 10K miles. The original Metzler tires tread had a sine wave tread pattern right smack in the center of the tire which I thought at the time probably accounted for the deceleration steering head oscillation and I still believe this to be true.

So long and short is for me I'm not ready to replace the steering head bearings although I don't doubt doing so would damp out the oscillations much like keeping your hands on the handlebars do. I'm not a mechanical engineer but I think these oscillations must be a function of many variables from one end of the bike to the other and many motorcycles over time have been prone to these mysterious steering head oscillations. So, hands on handlebars or increased bearing surface accomplishes much the same affect when it comes to oscillation damping in the steering head.

My story and I'm sticking to it, for what it's worth.:unsure: I can't argue with rbentnail and how bearings solved is fork seal issue as I have no doubt his solution worked for him and has for many others. I just chalk it up to one of life's many mysteries. Now watch, there go my fork seals. lol..lol..
 

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As I have said before it is impossible for the head bearings to cause the bars to wobble as they are static bearings. They do not move until the bars are turned - how can they then cause a wobble - they can't. What they do is allow the bars to wobble when something is out of balance and spinning - the wheel and tyre. The FJR is a fusy bike when it comes to tyres. Michelin are usually OK, so perhaps they have not been fitted or balanced correctly. Next time try a different tyre, such as a Dunlop Roadsmart 3, which I find perfect for the FJR and keeps the front light. Tapered bearings have slight resistence compared to the standard bearings , so they mask the wobble, they can't cure it.
 

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As I have said before it is impossible for the head bearings to cause the bars to wobble as they are static bearings. They do not move until the bars are turned - how can they then cause a wobble - they can't. What they do is allow the bars to wobble when something is out of balance and spinning - the wheel and tyre. The FJR is a fusy bike when it comes to tyres. Michelin are usually OK, so perhaps they have not been fitted or balanced correctly. Next time try a different tyre, such as a Dunlop Roadsmart 3, which I find perfect for the FJR and keeps the front light. Tapered bearings have slight resistence compared to the standard bearings , so they mask the wobble, they can't cure it.

I have the Dunlop Road Smart 2 tires now and I get the wobble/headshake at around 35 MPH if I let my hands off the handlebars. It only takes second or two for it to happen. I've made some suspension setting changes, retorqued my bearing nut so far but that's about it. I'll see if it does it when I get some new tires. Mine have about 1-2k miles to go so that won't take too long. ;-)
 

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My 14 wore the oe Stones out at 6300mi (cupped to the cords on the front) and I replaced them with Shinko Ravens, and at about 1000mi later it was like someone flipped a switch with a near tank slapping wobble, I took it straight to my dealer who tried all of the above things including changing my junk Shinko (his description) front to a Michelin pr4 ( now at 13k and almost no cupping) and nothing got rid of the severe wobble.

The service manager pronounced at that point that I shouldn’t take my hands off the bars anyway which I replied what about opening & closing my face shield ? And then I asked him what he thought my lawyer would say about that statement ?

At which point he got the dealerships manager and they informed me they would call Yamaha, I told them to just put in a set of tapered bearings and be done with it, which they did ! Then presented me with a nearly $400 bill,a scratched gas tank & windshield ! I was not happy !

So the service manager informed me that if they’d installed oe bearings in it would’ve been no charge which he never told me. I took it up with the dealer manager who was not pleased at all, it ended up costing the s-manager his job because he had a history of doing this. I still had to pay the bill but the dealer manager took over and fixed everything to my satisfaction.

Anyway the ONLY thing that fixed my bike is a new set of tapered Alls-balls ! The bike is a much more stabile, solid handling bike than it ever was from new. I would do all of the suggestions above with replacing the bearings the last thing. Never taking your hands off the bars is not a realistic option. That’s my .02
 

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Sometimes you just have to come to the realization it may be more than 1 thing contributing to the wobble. For some it may be head bearings, for others tires.

I had a ZRX with $2k in suspension upgrades. Handled great. Put on a set of Avon tires one time and not only did it get the wobble on decel, but I felt like I had to wrestle it around every corner. Not fun. Changed tires and everything went back to normal.
 

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Agreed there can be more than one cause. Now about the severity of this wobble.... if it is as light as some are describing, is it really an issue or unsafe? I've never had an issues on either of my FJR's, but I certainly remember a tank slapper on my old Norton.
 
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Agreed there can be more than one cause. Now about the severity of this wobble.... if it is as light as some are describing, is it really an issue or unsafe? I've never had an issues on either of my FJR's, but I certainly remember a tank slapper on my old Norton.
If you're in the area (queenston traffic circle) you can experience some VIOLENT shaking. Take my bike for a ride.
A new set of tires made it exactly the same as it was with worn out ones.
 

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I also have to say that at about 10K miles on my tires I was looking at the front tire tread today and I noticed that the tread on both sides of the tire center are badly worn and only the center of the tire really has good contact with the road surface. Kind of like a triangle with a sharp point for a contact patch. I think this is caused by the roads I ride where I live. the closest 4 lane is 60 miles from me and virtually all of my riding is on two lane very curvy roads. Also, I admit that I get a bit frisky in many of the curves that are marked at 30 to 45 mph so it's not surprising that the sides of the tire tread suffer the most wear so a mild oscillation probably isn't surprising on 10 year old PR2 tires so today I ordered a new set of PR4/GT tires. Can't help it I just like Michelin tires on everything. I mean 10K on 10 year old PR2 tires ain't bad. They were 4 years old when I first mounted them in '16. When I mount tires I always balance just the wheel then mount the tire and check balance. With Michelin I rarely ever have to rebalance after mounting the tire. I use a static balancer and really take my time balancing the wheel as in maybe 30 minutes per wheel.

Another thought: Long live telelever front suspension;) Especially if you don't like wobble.
 

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If you're in the area (queenston traffic circle) you can experience some VIOLENT shaking. Take my bike for a ride.
A new set of tires made it exactly the same as it was with worn out ones.
I'm busier than I want to be this week.... let's get in touch and pick a day next week. Do you want to spin up here?
 

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I'm busier than I want to be this week.... let's get in touch and pick a day next week. Do you want to spin up here?
I can do that. Any dry day works for me.
Once I yank a couple dandelions and water the garden, I'm not busy. ;)
 
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