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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys,

I bought a 2020 and everything was fine until around 9k miles. I got new tires put on (Pilot Road GT 6's) and headed to Florida. At some point in the next 1.5k miles the steering would shake around 45ish. When I got back to NC I had the shop check the tires, and they were still balanced. I have read a lot on here about the steering head bearings, and changing over to tapered. The shop says they can swap them out, but is there anything else I should check before I do that?

Also, what is the recommended brand / type to go with? Could you possibly link me?

Thanks.
 

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I have the stock steering bearings in my 08. I found that torque on steering head called for about 13ft lbs. I took it up to 18-19 ft lbs. put a little grease if them while I was at it.
 

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2003 FJR1300R / 2007 Husq SMR 510
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Hey guys,

I bought a 2020 and everything was fine until around 9k miles. I got new tires put on (Pilot Road GT 6's) and headed to Florida. At some point in the next 1.5k miles the steering would shake around 45ish. When I got back to NC I had the shop check the tires, and they were still balanced. I have read a lot on here about the steering head bearings, and changing over to tapered. The shop says they can swap them out, but is there anything else I should check before I do that?

Also, what is the recommended brand / type to go with? Could you possibly link me?

Thanks.
I would suspect the wheel not being balanced properly, if you had a tire change and then they wore in a little weird they may make a harmonic wobble.
 

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I would have the shop or yourself re-torque the stock bearings and see if that helps. I haven't done anything with my 2013 and have no issues.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I have torqued the bearings myself. Spec was tighten to 37, then back off and tighten to 13. That kind of moved it a little to where it will wobble without being touched from about 45-50ish on deceleration.
 

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I have the stock steering bearings in my 08. I found that torque on steering head called for about 13ft lbs. I took it up to 18-19 ft lbs. put a little grease if them while I was at it.
The Yamaha spec of 13 is lighter than most other bikes out there...... 16-18 is more better. 19 is OK too.
 

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What tire pressures you running? I had PR4's on my bike originally when I bought it. Would wobble on decel too. I pumped them up and it helped a little. Replaced them with Angel GT's and no wobble at all.
 
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2006 FJR1300
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Given that, and assuming:
  • Your steering did not wobble with the old tires before you replaced them. (?)
  • You confirmed that the steering head is properly torqued.
  • Your shop confirmed that the tires are still in balance after 1.5K miles.
  • There was no wobble when the new tires were mounted - the wobble started AFTER about 1.xK miles of wear.
  • The tire was, and still is properly inflated to about 39psi since it's replacement.
  • No mishaps happened during the last 1.5K miles that would cause your wheels to not to track on the same centerline (center lines of front and rear wheels got offset, even a little bit).
If the above is all true, then the only variable I can think of is wear-over-time, and/or improper mounting direction. Is it possible that the tire is perhaps mounted to run in the wrong direction, or if is correctly mounted, is it in some way malformed from the factory and wore to an uneven pattern?
 

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2018 FJR1300ES/2022 FJR1300ES
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Far more likely to be that something got tweaked during the tire change. Loosen everything, bounce on the forks a couple of times, then torque to spec. Bearings would be a remote, distant last place in the order of likelihood.
Hey guys,

I bought a 2020 and everything was fine until around 9k miles. I got new tires put on (Pilot Road GT 6's) and headed to Florida. At some point in the next 1.5k miles the steering would shake around 45ish. When I got back to NC I had the shop check the tires, and they were still balanced. I have read a lot on here about the steering head bearings, and changing over to tapered. The shop says they can swap them out, but is there anything else I should check before I do that?

Also, what is the recommended brand / type to go with? Could you possibly link me?

Thanks.
 

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Far more likely to be that something got tweaked during the tire change. Loosen everything, bounce on the forks a couple of times, then torque to spec. Bearings would be a remote, distant last place in the order of likelihood.
Sage advice. (y) We really should have a sticky titled "Tracking Issues?". And post the procedure on loosening everything below the upper triple clamp (including axle and calipers) and retorque to spec. Probably cures 80% of problems.
 
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I had the same issue and tapered bearings made the problem disappear. I couldn't find the receipt or where I got them from, but they were NOT the All Balls tapered ones. Many folks use them and have no problems with them but I went with Timken branded ones, as I think they make the best tapered bearings out there.
Found the link I followed.... 32006 tapered roller steering stem bearings
 

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I went through this on my '07 and the prior owner did on my '13. Tires, pressures, tweaking front end, torquing, etc. etc. ad nauseum- absolutely nothing made the problem go away permanently. Sure, things helped for a while but the wobble always came back. Replacing the steering bearing with All Balls and then retorquing them after about 200 miles is the only thing that was a permanent fix. It's been some 90-100 THOUSAND miles on the '07 since I replaced them and the wobble has never once returned. And amazingly with tapered roller bearings it makes no difference about the order of bolt/screw tightening on the front end when replacing tires or what brand of tires are used or what pressure you choose to run your tires at. It's only been about 10K miles since the '13 was done but I can confidently say that I'm 100% sure it will be as successful as the '07 is.

OP, by all means try all the suggested stuff. I did. Then replace the bearings when you get tired of having no results and be done with it. Below are the threads of page 1 for a forum search for the word wobble. There are at least 20 more pages of results. # 22-1003 All Balls brand I used. I'd check parts fiche and make sure the OE part #'s haven't changed.














 

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I experienced something similar on my 2018 after getting tires installed by an independent shop. Turns out they F'd up.

There's a key/notch that they didn't align properly which caused the tire to not run true. It was hardly noticeable and really only an issue if I let go of the bars between 30 to 50ish MPH where it would then start to oscillate and get scary pretty quickly. Another symptom of the issue caused by the improper installation was that the cruise control would turn itself off so much that it was effectively unusable. I took it to my closest Yamaha dealer to resolve the cruise control issue and they found & fixed the installation issue, which also resolved the cruise control problem. However, by then the tire had already worn in the wrong pattern.

I'm down to the cords on part of the front tire and the wear bars on the rear, so I just ordered a new set to be installed by my closest dealer. Hopefully that rectifies the issue for me. I may have them check/tighten the steering head bearing at the same time.

I will report back my results in about a week or so after the work is done and I've ridden it a bit.
 

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162k miles and the only wobble I ever felt was with 18k on a front Conti Road-Attack that had huge tread blocks. Pro Tip - Don't take your hands off the bars. o_O;):ROFLMAO: Stock steering head bearings, actually lubed and re-torqued now and then.
 

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Mine have always wobbled. It’s obvious by all the threads and posts that it’s inherent to the bike. I just hate the expense of changing out the bearings. It only does it when letting off the bars.
 

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Ive got a 14 wobbler with a cupped PR4GT. Same as everyone else--only wobbles with hands off bars on decell from 50 down thru 40 or something like that --I might be off by 10 mph. Have not had any other tire on it. i took the entire front end off the bike. Bearings are fine. Torqued them a little tighter. Still does it. IMO the tires are the thing that sets off the wobble the bike is obviously prone to. bearings are not the cause, they just mask/dampen/cover it up it. My 04 did not wobble with its new Dunlop RS 3. Only tires I had on that one.

both pull to the left slightly with no hands too. Maybe its me how I sit on it but i cant straighten it out no matter how I sit--even uncomfortably & visibly off center. I have to think there is some unbalanced gyro effect of the spinning drtiveshaft causing it (due to its longitudinal orientation verses the transvers orientation of every other spinning thing on the bike). Others will chime in tellign me how their shaft drive bikes doesn't ever pull. What ev.
 

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162k miles and the only wobble I ever felt was with 18k on a front Conti Road-Attack that had huge tread blocks. Pro Tip - Don't take your hands off the bars. o_O;):ROFLMAO: Stock steering head bearings, actually lubed and re-torqued now and then.
99,703 miles on my '13 right now, and I've never experienced a wobble, but I'm not in the habit of riding without my hands on the bars. I do let go on the highway every now and then on cruise, and it wanders a bit. I can keep it in my lane with body english. I'm taking it out today for a bit, maybe I'll experiment.
 

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Ive got a 14 wobbler with a cupped PR4GT. Same as everyone else--only wobbles with hands off bars on decell from 50 down thru 40 or something like that --I might be off by 10 mph. Have not had any other tire on it. i took the entire front end off the bike. Bearings are fine. Torqued them a little tighter. Still does it. IMO the tires are the thing that sets off the wobble the bike is obviously prone to. bearings are not the cause, they just mask/dampen/cover it up it. My 04 did not wobble with its new Dunlop RS 3. Only tires I had on that one.

both pull to the left slightly with no hands too. Maybe its me how I sit on it but i cant straighten it out no matter how I sit--even uncomfortably & visibly off center. I have to think there is some unbalanced gyro effect of the spinning drtiveshaft causing it (due to its longitudinal orientation verses the transvers orientation of every other spinning thing on the bike). Others will chime in tellign me how their shaft drive bikes doesn't ever pull. What ev.
I can understand your observation.... the PR4 front tread pattern quite frankly is terrible for wear anomalies, whereas the RS3 tread pattern wears very evenly.
 
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My '10 FJR had the deceleration wobble with the OEM Metzler tires from day one. Bought from original owner with only 950 miles in 2016. I replaced the Metzler's with PR2 Continentals and wobble gone. Now at 14K miles the wobble is beginning to return just a bit if I take my hands off the bars with the front tire beginning to cup just slightly. I think tread pattern is the main culprit if you have the wobble with a new tire. I've never liked Dunlop tires for other reasons so I don't know what tire I'll go with next. I do mount and balance my own tires and I've got about 10K miles on the PR2s so not bad. No way am I going to install tapered rollers to cover up the wobble that goes away by keeping my hands on the bars. I keep 40psi pressure in front and 42psi in rear on both my bikes and I get fantastic tire life.

Too bad the FJR can't have telelever front suspension. Telelever = no wobble ever and virtually no front fork maintenance. Telelever would be virtually impossible on an in-line 4 engine motorcycle. No, I don't want a new BMW!
 
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