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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
2014, Touring screen, Laminar lip

Per the title...2014 FJR1300ES, Yamaha Touring screen, Laminar lip

I was interested in seeing if this addition would fix my one main aero complaints about the Yamaha Touring screen - the turbulence coming off the top of it when following a vehicle at any speed above ~70km/h.

Brilliant result. It really cleans up the airflow, such that I can now have my helmet 'open' at speeds up to 100km/h no problems (Nolan 104). Not that I do it by habit, but it's a good way to feel what the airflow is doing, and when taking a drink from my camelback I need top open the front of the brain bucket.

Will posted some pics later - when I get around to taking some - for those who have any interest in such things.
 

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I had a 2014, and a Yamaha Touring screen. I bought and installed a laminar lip. I tried it in several different positions. It didn't improve conditions in any position, for me. The manufacturer honored the return policy promptly.
Per the title...2014 FJR1300ES, Yamaha Touring screen, Laminar lip

I was interested in seeing if this addition would fix my one main aero complaints about the Yamaha Touring screen - the turbulence coming off the top of it when following a vehicle at any speed above ~70km/h.

Brilliant result. It really cleans up the airflow, such that I can now have my helmet 'open' at speeds up to 100km/h no problems (Nolan 104). Not that I do it by habit, but it's a good way to feel what the airflow is doing, and when taking a drink from my camelback I need top open the front of the brain bucket.

Will posted some pics later - when I get around to taking some - for those who have any interest in such things.
 

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Height, seat, bar risers, helmet all make night and day differences in rider experience. There’s no risk to trying a laminar lip. They’re a standup company. I think everyone should try one if they have a Yamaha Touring shield. I know other folks who have been very pleased with the effect of a lip on their bike.
 

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It's true what suits one person may not suit another. Windshields, helmets, seats, handlebar positions,mirrors, we are all different and like different things.

Being a stubby guy, I find the Yamaha touring screen to be very effective. I have to lower it about 2" to see over it. All the way up and looking thru it, it is very quiet and no buffeting because no air gets to my head at all. But between my glasses, my face shield and the windshield, that's a lot of layers to look through.

I might have been ok with a Laminar lip on the stock screen, but very happy with the Yamaha touring shield for winter riding and I imagine it will be a nice addition for trips.

Come summer I'll be sticking on a stock shield cut down a couple of inches for some air flow.
 
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I LOVE the lip on the touring screen. I rode a 1300 miler yesterday in nearly all weather conditions and it made a world of difference. Up in the cold kept the wind off me, mid during heavy rains kept a lot of the rain away, and down in the warm provided airflow.
I should also say that I’ve made modifications to my setup - helibars AND moved the top box to a Garauld passenger aux shelf. Moving the top box to the passenger seat helped in 2 ways - it gave me a great backrest and broke the air effect, which really makes the lip shine.
Try what works for you - and test all the different positions with duct tape before committing. I ran it for a few weeks before I agreed with all those different voices in my head which worked best for me 🙂
 

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If you have a Gen3 and have not shimmed the windshield bracket to tilt the shield back somewhat, you should give it a whirl. More air comes under the shield and can cure most of the buffeting... I run a V-Stream tall, shimmed and I am quite happy.
 

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Per the title...2014 FJR1300ES, Yamaha Touring screen, Laminar lip

I was interested in seeing if this addition would fix my one main aero complaints about the Yamaha Touring screen - the turbulence coming off the top of it when following a vehicle at any speed above ~70km/h.

Brilliant result. It really cleans up the airflow, such that I can now have my helmet 'open' at speeds up to 100km/h no problems (Nolan 104). Not that I do it by habit, but it's a good way to feel what the airflow is doing, and when taking a drink from my camelback I need top open the front of the brain bucket.

Will posted some pics later - when I get around to taking some - for those who have any interest in such things.
Do you notice any improvements keeping air off your shoulders? I'm happy with the fjr touring shield except for my shoulders. Would be nice to have a little more protection for winter riding.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Do you notice any improvements keeping air off your shoulders? I'm happy with the fjr touring shield except for my shoulders. Would be nice to have a little more protection for winter riding.
Hey mate. I honestly can't say I noticed - will check it out and get back to you on that point. It's summer here and I wear a heavily ventilated jacket in the heat so can certainly feel any airflow on the paper body.

I did previously notice turbulence across the head and shoulder area, which I know for sure is cleaned up - not gone, just eased and substantially cleaner.
 

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Looking at this art, all I can think is "you wish":

The diagram shows only part of the story. Here's another part of the story:


Any bike is moving through a three-dimensional air mass. Addressing the "wingtip vortices" forming on the sides of the windscreen isn't waste of time. Here's the real deal:

But the VStream doesn't do anything for the air moving over the top of the windscreen. And it doesn't acknowledge the airflow coming under the FJR windscreen.

For the adventurous: Cut up some yarn (gotta be lightweight) into 6" pieces. Tape them in columns about 3" apart, and each yarn the in the column spaced vertically about 3" apart. Start in the middle of the windscreen and work to the left or right (covering only half the screen). To get really gee-whiz about this, try red yarn on the outside, and green yarn on the inside (opposite) half. Here's the hard part: recording the yarn's motion. The best bet is an action cam looking at the windscreen. The next best bet is a passenger taking pictures (or video) over the "pilot's" shoulder. Or just get riding and grabbing looks without getting stuffed into a car, truck or wall. Try different speeds, try being behind a car or truck as well as in free air. Try a cross wind, if possible. Try plugging the vent area at the bottom of the windscreen.

One crucial piece of advice: get your own yarn. Chopping up your SO's sweater project could be life threatening... :wink2:
 

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The pedantic part...

Yarn reading 101



Lots of smooth air in front of and and almost over the front wheel. The air flow basically matches the contour of the wheel arch - up and over. Near the top of the wheel arch, air flow has slowed down - the yarns are drooping. The yarns at and behind the scoop show show all it's doing is messing up air flow between the A pillar and the wheel arch. There's no air coming out of the scoop (yarns would be more or less straight back). Air flow over the hood is smooth (yarns straight back) and generally smooth along the door, except for a little burble near the door seam. Air is basically sliding over the roof and being pushed inwards by air coming up the side of the Trans-AM.

Compare any results from windscreen testing with this image. Tediously long discussion of the results available on request - or not. :wink2:
 

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RB, your GL illustration is what's going on behind that fender scoop on the car. The V-stream illustration shows how it tends to come back inwards to your shoulders. Basically, you need airflow behind the windshield to stop that pushing on the back of your head and other such goings on. Gen3 revised the windshield/cowl to get some air behind, but it isn't quite enough...... spacers under the front and tilt it back... big improvement, less noise around the head, almost no flopping around like some have found.
Taking a guess that a Laminar Lip or MVario break up the airflow with air under it and over it, and the angle will vary the results.

I like the V-Stream, the tall one is the right size for me. If I were to change it slightly, I'd flatten out the top contour. I have an older one I may just try some heat gun treatment.....
 

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Brian... the guy goes on worse than I do! A bit(!) of editing to get rid of the duplication and natter would help. Lots.

The yarns do show a good read on flow over the top of the windscreen. 'Course a simple "the wind hits me here. now the wind hits me there" does the same thing.

What started the business of air flow is the VStream and their concentration on tip vortices. My point is the vortices are only part of the picture. A low version of the VStream might push the vortices out of the way, but air coming over the top is still going hit a rider at point that leads to noise, etc.

The yarn will help visualize everything that's going on. A tank top camera, looking at the windscreen will show the whole picture without dealing with air messed by the camera.

I guess I know what I'll be doing in a couple of weeks...
 
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As a note, I am 6' tall, the medium V-stream wasn't ideal, the taller one better but got really better when I tilted it back.. try it, I know you want to, then spin us a yarn about it, LOL.
 

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some random pictures on motorcycle aerodynamics, and air flow management
 

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