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Just bought a 2013 FJR and the bike has a set of the Bridgetone GT touring tires and they appear to be worn evenly and have about 3k miles on them. There is plenty of meat left and while I know they are not the best and will be replaced with something else I do not understand why this bike has an insane head shake when the hands are light at 30-40 mph. NOT on deceleration. I could be in neutral coasting and if I take my hands off for a second, the bars squirm and if I let it go it would be over. I do not think it's the steering bearing/torgue but I guess I will have to take it to the dealer to find out. Should not have to. Bought his bike so I did not have to have it in the shop but once every 26k miles. Not good. And if it's a tire issue then Yamaha should stop offering that brand . Really not happy with this..
I take it that you must do some maintenance yourself since it sounds like you plan to take to a dealer only for the valves. If I'm correct in my inference and you plan to do things like oil, final drive, plugs and TB synch, then torquing the steering head bearing is a simple job. You will need a 36mm socket, torque wrench and a Yamaha specific claw wrench. You can get the wrench on eBay or since I'm right down the road you can borrow mine (assuming you're still up here in MT). PM me if you want to use it and we'll figure something out.
 
My 2014 had the shakes from new.
Rode the bike home from the dealers, 500kms and torqued up the head bearings.
Did improve for awhile, but gradually worsened as the front Angle GT tyre wore funny.

Watched the bike being assembled at the dealer and they do not check the head stock bearings.

Swapped out to tapered rollers and now not even a hint of a problem.
Can ride no hands not a prob, no deceleration wobbles.
 
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Yep, what Ken said. My '07 always got the shakes as the front tire wore until last summer when it would not go away. New roller bearings did the trick.

Re-torquing the bearings is a simple job, give it a try. What you got to lose? The frustration that comes through your post is understandable but take comfort- you are certainly not alone. This problem has been addressed and solved many, many times over.
 
I take it that you must do some maintenance yourself since it sounds like you plan to take to a dealer only for the valves. If I'm correct in my inference and you plan to do things like oil, final drive, plugs and TB synch, then torquing the steering head bearing is a simple job. You will need a 36mm socket, torque wrench and a Yamaha specific claw wrench. You can get the wrench on eBay or since I'm right down the road you can borrow mine (assuming you're still up here in MT). PM me if you want to use it and we'll figure something out.
Thanks for the offer. I did see the You Tube one how to tighten the steering head. I really did not want to have to go that deep so soon after getting a 2013 with 10k miles on it. I do some wrenching myself but when it comes to this I would want a dealer behind it. I am not in Montana now ( in Arizona for the winter ) but I do appreciate the offer. It seems like a very common yet odd phenomena on this bike. Too many options. Tires, bearings, etc. Why would the headstock need to be re-torqued so frequently.?? I've had many bikes but this is a weird problem. I have the Bridgestone GT's that were made for this bike and they have about 3000k miles on them with no odd wear evident and plenty of meat left. Strange.
 
The head bearings are "supposed" to be re-torqued at the first service.
Suggest try another dealer or better still do it yourself.

Yamaha just went cheap and stopped using tapered roller bearings a long time ago.
For $45.00, it's the best money you can spend on the bike.
Go online and look at some engineering sites, look at the various bearing applications.
What Yamaha installs is a joke, not fit for purpose.
 
I had a wobble just like it on my '99 Concours. Tightening the steering head fixed it permanently.

I had a "clunk" but no wobble on my '10 Honda NT700V. Put the "All-Balls" bearings in at about 50,000 miles, no issues since.
 
You're correct, it is not normal but mine has done the same thing since new. I've loosened everything and re-torqued everything but to no avail. Mine is a '12 and I think my next step is roller steering head bearings. By the way mine only does it on de-cel at between 50 and 45 mph and if I keep my hands on the bars it is imperceptible so I'm not too concerned. I know of at least 2 others with genII bikes that do the same thing at the exact same speed.
My 2015 ES does the exact same thing between 40-45mph. I only have 4000 miles. It can't be felt if I keep my hands on the bars. Also tried it a 70 mph and she is rock solid no hands? I will mention it at my next service.
 
I had a wobble just like it on my '99 Concours. Tightening the steering head fixed it permanently.

I had a "clunk" but no wobble on my '10 Honda NT700V. Put the "All-Balls" bearings in at about 50,000 miles, no issues since.
Phil, Surprised to see you over here. did you get a FJR?
 
My 2015 ES does the exact same thing between 40-45mph. I only have 4000 miles. It can't be felt if I keep my hands on the bars. Also tried it a 70 mph and she is rock solid no hands? I will mention it at my next service.
Be prepared to hear "it's normal" or "it's the tire" or ... or ... or ... The only thing that finally eliminated the wobble for me was new steering bearings. I replaced mine with tapered rollers.

Did you know this discussion has been going on since at least 2006? Yep, it's always been a problem. Generation after generation the saga continues....
 
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Be prepared to hear "it's normal" or "it's the tire" or ... or ... or ... The only thing that finally eliminated the wobble for me was new steering bearings. I replaced mine with tapered rollers.

Did you know this discussion has been going on since at least 2006? Yep, it's always been a problem. Generation after generation the saga continues....
Yep, did it on the 06 and does it on the 14. Ya know, I run the H--L out of mine in the twisties and if I keep my hands where they are supposed to be, no problems. My point is that it isn't something you have to park the bike and go replace the bearings immediately. New tire fixes it for a few miles but it always comes back. Tightening the steering head is similar, OK for a while and then it comes back. I'm not sure if it is the difference between roller and ball bearings or that Yamaha just put crap bearings in. Triumphs had a similar problem and it was IMO crap bearings. Not all "ball" bearings are the same.
 
Just ordered a bearing set for my 2014A. It looks like a PITA to install, probably wait until the rainy season to tear it apart.

Dan
 
front end wobble during decel with hands off the bars is pretty normal behavior for ANY motorcycle. If the rider keeps hands on bars, there is no wobble. On previous bikes I've owned, I've spent considerable time trying to iron out the wobble, because I often like to sit up in the saddle during a decel to a stop, and do NOT appreciate having the bike go into a wobble. My "fix" always has been to put a hair more torque onto the steering stem bearings, than called for in the spec. On my 2007 Venture, the spec torque is so low that I seriously doubt it is a correct spec. To end the Venture wobble I had to increase torque around 100% (can't recall the exact torque numbers just now). My 2014 FJR doesn't seem to have much of this problem, yet, so I have gone through the new-bike re-torque and scrupulously used the spec torque.

I don't think there is any danger of damaging bearings by adding a bit more torque. Even with double the torque on my Venture, the bearings never had a problem in the years I owned the bike. If you go a bit too far with the torque, however, the steering will be too tight to permit the front end to follow the road, and the bike will be hard to control.

I remember my 1971 BMW R60/5 had a large hand-operated nut on the steering stem, so the rider could adjust the steering tightness on the fly. Once, I snugged it down a bit too far while doing 70 mph and almost crashed, the bike didn't want to respond to my steering inputs at all. After that, I treated that big nut with a lot of respect!
 
Just ordered a bearing set for my 2014A. It looks like a PITA to install, probably wait until the rainy season to tear it apart.

Dan
They can be a pain. But I went into the job thinking of taking my time and doing it right. No pounding races in, no pounding bearings on (leads to breaking them), no half-azzed installation. Everything was done by hand- sanding, polishing, measuring. Everything. Yes, it took longer than some who have done it but I know it's done right.
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My FJR is the only bike I've ever owned that had/s this front end wobble. That's at least a dozen bikes- Yamaha, Honda, Suzuki included- since 1976. As mentioned earlier, a new front tire would make it go away for a little while but it always came back.

Riddle me this Batman: what if "hands on bars" only stops the bars from shaking? What if the wheel/tire/fork assy still wants to shimmy-sham down the road? What's that do to the fork seals/internals? Maybe that's why Mammy Yammy rebuilt my forks TWICE on their dime to get the leaks to finally stop, eh? Yes, no, maybe; h3ll I dunno. But I do know this- a front end wobble is not any more normal on a bike than it is in a car or truck. I understand if you are willing to accept it as such. I am not. For $22 (bearing set) and a few hrs of my time (it's winter, I ain't riding anyway) my wobble and leaking forks are gone.
 
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