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Some one else recently did this... how broken and how did it get broken.... for future knowledge of the collective..... or Pm me, I'd like to know.
You will have a hard time finding one, and apparently they are not available.... as this member found out.
In 2016, the cartridge was changed to a "less expensive" design where the lower valving is pressed/crimped in. My suggestion is to get a 2016 cartridge and the lower Oil Lock Piece (as a unit that affects damping). Member with the problem ended up buying a complete 2016 fork because the dealer was not sure that would work... I don't see why it won't.
 
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My suggestion is to get a 2016 cartridge and the lower Oil Lock Piece (as a unit that affects damping).

I agree with Ray, in theory, the cartridge and associated parts from a later year could possibly fit.
But that is only a theory, as no one has reported success with that experiment, yet.
If it were mine (and it's not) I would try that as the second least expensive possible fix, knowing that I may end up stuck with the parts if it didn't work out.

You will have a hard time finding one, and apparently they are not available.... as this member found out.

The right cartridge for the 2013 -- 2015 FJR-A's is not available new from any known OEM source.
However, there may be some FJR owners who have upgraded their forks with aftermarket cartridges and may have the leftover OEM cartridges laying around. If any of them are willing to part with the OEM cartridge, that would likely be the least expensive fix.
Maybe someone will chime in.

All of the above is assuming your problem is the same as found in this thread.
Until you provide more information, we don't really know what you're trying to fix.

https://www.fjrowners.com/forums/8-fjr-central/152025-cannot-find-compression-rod-anywhere.html
 

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I will defer to Ray's deeper dig into the possibility of transplanting the available cartridge assembly from later forks into the 2013 -- 2015 fork tubes and concur that it is not a practical course of action. I didn't dig that deep.


"Frustrated" sent me a PM indicating that his cartridge damage is the same as that shown by "3sacrwd"
He said the failure occurred during Dis-Assembly when using an impact tool to remove the lower retaining bolt.
The threaded compression valve extension twisted off the compression valve body. Possibly due to a high strength thread locker used during original factory assembly.

This is the 3rd failure of this type that I know of.
The first failure occurred during re-assembly when torqueing the lower retaining bolt.
Not sure how "3sacrwd" failure occurred.
There may be more failures out there, and there may be more failures looming as more people dis-assemble forks for service in the future.

It's possible that Mamaha recognized this is a weak design that the later assembly design corrected, and may be the reason none of the 2013 -- 2015 cartridges or RH fork leg assemblies are available now.
Of course, the later design change is more likely due to cost cutting and may be subject to the same failures once those forks are dis-assembled for service.

dan
 

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Well, maybe a time to put away the impact gun for 2013-15 and use a cartridge tool, but I tend to discount that a bit too... the lower cartridge bolt is held in by the copper washer resisting the bolt loosening, and when installed is pulling the cartridge valve tight against the bottom of the fork... the resulting sandwich is oil tight, no leakage or loosening.
When you use a regular ratchet say, the moment the bolt is backed out a turn (or less), the cartridge moves away from the lower fork and simply, nothing to hold the nut (the cartridge) from spinning, the bolt/copper washer is loose, all spins together. Preloading the cartridge at the fork cap end helps, but sometimes our undersprung forks can't hold it. The idea of the impact wrench is pure speed to get the bolt backed out as fast as possible.
SO..... how does that break a cartridge valve... head scratcher. So let's say we use a cartridge holding tool... how are the forces on the cartridge valve any less... dunno, but, let's use a cartridge holding tool from now on with those years.... I will take a look at the next one I have apart and see if it is any weaker than Gen2.
The 2016 is a cheaper (wrong word?) less complex design, however, the cartridge valve is up into the cartridge more and crimped inside the tube rather than threaded.
As for loctite on that lower screw... haven't seen it on FJR's, however in the old days some manufacturers said to use it. Mistake to do that, really, if you do then you willl definitely need a cartridge holding tool. No need, that copper washer will hold it much like the crush washer on your oil pan bolt or spark plug.
 
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As for loctite on that lower screw... haven't seen it on FJR's, however in the old days some manufacturers said to use it. Mistake to do that, really, if you do then you willl definitely need a cartridge holding tool. No need, that copper washer will hold it much like the crush washer on your oil pan bolt or spark plug.
I mentioned the loctite on the lower screw because it is called for in the FSM.
It's been a while since I serviced a fork, and I don't remember what may have been found.
 

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I mentioned the loctite on the lower screw because it is called for in the FSM.
It's been a while since I serviced a fork, and I don't remember what may have been found.
Dammit, just looked, there I go being wrong again.... but I wouldn't use loctite myself. If you do, just remember you will most likely need a cartridge holding tool (also in the FSM). Well, guess we should be doing that anyway, so I'm gonna stop using an impact gun. Learning something here at this old age.
 

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Dammit, just looked, there I go being wrong again.... but I wouldn't use loctite myself. If you do, just remember you will most likely need a cartridge holding tool (also in the FSM). Well, guess we should be doing that anyway, so I'm gonna stop using an impact gun. Learning something here at this old age.
Interesting. When I did my forks on my 14 FJR a year ago, I used an electric impact gun to remove the bottom bolts from the forks. No problem and then just my torque wrench and arm power to tighten them. No use of a cartridge holding tool.
 

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I've done it all along that way Chuck, all Gen's and never too many problems, and for the odd time we did, there was a cartridge holding tool handy at our tech days. I guess what we really don't understand is how people are breaking these cartridge valves. BUT, now that we've also discussed to easy cheap cartridge holding tools, I'm OK with giving up the impact gun.
 
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