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2012 fjr1300 A
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I bought the bike a few months ago and put a little over 1k on it, mostly commuting to work. I'm at least the third owner. Looks like two owners before took good care and had records of extensive maintenance in 2017/18. Had valves checked, fork seals, swing arms and bearings checked/packed, coolant replaced, brakes and clutch flushed, final drive oil, a few other small basic things. Problem is the mileage wasn't indicated on the service. Owner prior to me looks like he just did oil and tires. I don't think the guy I bought it from put too many miles on it, but the prior owner rode it pretty regularly, and likely year round with all the cold weather gear plugs and evidence of farkles that were removed.
Only "issues" I've noticed are that neutral seems to be a little too easy to find on the 1-2 shift, and the rear break pedal can feel a little gummy when engaging the UBS. (I apply pressure, feel a little wall and then a release that comes with increased braking; this tends to lessen as the bike is ridden through the day).
The other thing I have noticed is that, especially when the bike is cold, the clutch can be a little finicky, like it's not releasing all the way, again this seems to be most prominent between 1-2 where I pick up a "flutter" as it goes through neutral.
I'm planning an oil/filter change next weekend. The wife will be out of town, so I'll have some time to wrench. I was planning to flush/bleed the brakes and clutch and replace the final drive oil as well. Also planning on doing the R1 shift arm.
Is there anything else I should be looking at doing while I have the time? Should I dig in and check the valves or are they probably good for a while? Any other maintenance I should be looking at given the miles/things I've noticed? Other than those, the bike seems to be in good running order.
I'm not a tech, so diagnosing things is not my forte, but if I know what needs changing/fixing, I have no problem breaking out the tools, I just don't want to waste time and money that I could be spending on riding and gas.
Thanks in advance for the help and recommendations.
 

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Personally, I would do everything so I have a baseline. To me "records" are not true records without date, mileage, findings (i.e. valve clearance measurements) and actions taken fully documented.
 

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Check rear brake lever. If there are any signs of stickiness when actuating and releasing by hand slowly you need to take apart and clean /lube pivot points v

Thoroughly flush clutch hydraulics.
1-2 should be done positively. Don’t dilly dally or try to slow shift this . A good positive movement needed.
( make sure shift arm linkage is adjusted to properly accommodate “your” boot.

On first shift into 1st gear after cold start pull clutch in and give throttle slight blip . At idle rpm 1st should engage smoothly for rest of the day


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 

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2006 FJR1300 AS - Orion The Hunter
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893 Posts
Welcome Andy_Man, to the hoard!! You are on the right track with the stuff you mentioned.

  1. For your brake pedal, you will have to disassemble, clean and lubricate the pivot shaft with a waterproof grease. They get "gummy..."
  2. Might as well, replace the battery, unless you can verify that it is new. The FJRs really are persnickety about a weak battery...
  3. And please fill in your signature with your year and model so we can help you but don't have to go search your machine.
  4. Are the tires 5 years or newer?
  5. Brake pads have enough meat on them?
  6. Run some Seafoam, or something like that to clean the injectors.
  7. A pic might be nice! LOL

Have Fun! Ride On!!
 

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Versys 1000, VFR800
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9,561 Posts
Everything they said above, can't go wrong with all that good advice......... brake and clutch fluid should be done annually, along with checking that brass bushing in the clutch lever (silicone grease). Rear brake pedal can get sticky (grease the pivot anyway), but sounds like your rear brakes are in need of a flush. Cycle the ABS via the diagnostic connector using a jumper or a test harness (search that)..
When was last valve check done? Without actual readings, hard to advise.... however, this can wait until riding season over, coolant change is done at the same time. After any valve shim changes, do a throttle body sync.
If you can't find what you need via seaching, let us know.
 
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2012 fjr1300 A
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
That sounds good guys, thanks! I'll definitely look at the brakes/clutch and you've talked me into the valves.
There was one other issue I remembered after I posted this, some times at very low speeds, probably around 5mph or so there is a sensation in the front that I would describe as grinding, or maybe going over gravel, even if the road is clean. There doesn't seem to be any noise associated with this, it's not all of the time, and it's only at extreme low speeds. I usually notice it when I'm decelerating to a stop light, or sometimes in the parking lot, any ideas?
Also, as requested, a picture!
78930
78931
 

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Versys 1000, VFR800
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There was a weird noise on Gen2 that nobody could explain..... can you feel a very slight buzz in your front brake lever when you're almost stopped? Seemed to me the front ABS was doing a self-check occasionally, very slight little buzz on the lever.... chalk it up to normal. Some noticed, most didn't.
 

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2007A, 2013A
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Read this thread, start to finish

 

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2012 fjr1300 A
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24 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
what is the condition of the front tire?
Near as I can tell the front tire is in good shape. No dry rot or other damage that I can see, tread seems good. The only thing I could see is that the tire is several years old, but as I said, I can't see any outward damage or wear.
 

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I cant imagine the rear shock is anything but mush.
You said fork seals were done. Was there any mention of other parts beside seals and oil?
Fork bushings should be pretty worn out by now too.
 

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Versys 1000, VFR800
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It would seem logical the bushings would have been replaced when the seals were done. You can't help but destroy them during disassembly... lower bushing will show wear around 30k to varying degrees. You need a special tool to install the middle bushings.
 

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2012 fjr1300 A
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
79095

Well I think I know why it felt like my clutch wasn't fully disengaging... Brake fluid wasn't quite as disgusting, but putting in fresh fluid definitely sharpened those up too.
I did check the valves and the #2 and 3 cylinder exhaust valves were at the very upper limit of being in spec.
This is probably bordering on a dumb question, but is there any good way to get ahold of replacement adjustment seats without having to have the bike apart and down for a week or more? It pains me that I would have to take the bike apart, remove the offending adjuster to do the math, order a new one, (or 4 in this case), wait a week or more for part to come in and then finish the replacement. I'd probably have to rent a valve spring compressor twice and have the wife mad for a week plus when she can't park in the garage. Is there a better way I'm not seeing? The local Yamaha dealership doesn't seem to keep much for FJR stuff in stock, let alone valve components for a 26k service...
 

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2012 fjr1300 A
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I cant imagine the rear shock is anything but mush.
You said fork seals were done. Was there any mention of other parts beside seals and oil?
Fork bushings should be pretty worn out by now too.
After seeing the lack of /poor quality maintenance that was done, the suspension is my next big project. I don't have a good frame of reference, but you are probably onto something with the rear shock being mush. I feel like the fronts could be a little firmer as well, and I'd be willing to bet that the bearings are all ready to be repacked as well. The deeper I dig into the bike, the more I'm disappointed by the previous owners.
I feel like I'm getting into grandpa's ax territory 😂😭
 

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2007A, 2013A
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8,911 Posts
.... but is there any good way to get ahold of replacement adjustment seats without having to have the bike apart and down for a week or more? It pains me that I would have to take the bike apart, remove the offending adjuster to do the math, order a new one, (or 4 in this case), wait a week or more for part to come in and then finish the replacement. I'd probably have to rent a valve spring compressor twice and have the wife mad for a week plus when she can't park in the garage. Is there a better way I'm not seeing? The local Yamaha dealership doesn't seem to keep much for FJR stuff in stock, let alone valve components for a 26k service...
1- you don't need a valve spring compressor to re-shim valve clearance;
2- this engine uses a bucket-over-shim type setup- shims are replaced, no adjustment seats;
3- yes- it's pricey for the little you need but the Hot Cams shim kit can be purchased and will contain everything you need when you remember you can use a removed factory shim in a different spot. When ordering, make sure you get the correct diameter. There are 2 common sizes;
4- I always mike the shims' thickness prior to use to ensure that it's exactly what I want. Every shim I've used is absolutely marked accurately but I can't make myself stop:cautious:;
5- I quit using Hot Cams & switched to Pro-X brand after the first check and I found out what my "popular" thicknesses are. Hot Cams come in .05mm increments, Pro-X in 1/2 that, .025mm. Much easier to hit my target clearance.
5- if you modify your profile to include your general location, maybe someone will offer up to provide parts/shims at replacement cost. I would, just saying.
 

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2006 FJR1300 AS - Orion The Hunter
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893 Posts
Dang, Man, looks like you live in my neighborhood! LOL

I am in College Station!
 

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2006 FJR1300 AS - Orion The Hunter
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893 Posts
View attachment 79095
Well I think I know why it felt like my clutch wasn't fully disengaging... Brake fluid wasn't quite as disgusting, but putting in fresh fluid definitely sharpened those up too.
I did check the valves and the #2 and 3 cylinder exhaust valves were at the very upper limit of being in spec.
This is probably bordering on a dumb question, but is there any good way to get ahold of replacement adjustment seats without having to have the bike apart and down for a week or more? It pains me that I would have to take the bike apart, remove the offending adjuster to do the math, order a new one, (or 4 in this case), wait a week or more for part to come in and then finish the replacement. I'd probably have to rent a valve spring compressor twice and have the wife mad for a week plus when she can't park in the garage. Is there a better way I'm not seeing? The local Yamaha dealership doesn't seem to keep much for FJR stuff in stock, let alone valve components for a 26k service...
OOF, that is awful... sorry, Man!!

Did you put in new seal its on the master and slave? With that fluid, I would have done that.

Yeah, I can "2-finger" my clutch, on Orion, with clear fluid and new kits!!
 

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I did check the valves and the #2 and 3 cylinder exhaust valves were at the very upper limit of being in spec.
If your valves are at the looser end of the spec, leave them alone. The valve clearances tighten up over time so looser is better.
 

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4- I always mike the shims' thickness prior to use to ensure that it's exactly what I want. Every shim I've used is absolutely marked accurately but I can't make myself stop:cautious:;
This a great habit to have, there are people like me who use a surface grinder to grind shims down to hit the desired clearances. I do tend to grind off the marking to avoid assuming the wrong size down the road should I have to go back in to adjust again.
 
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