Tomorrow morning I’m planning to:

• Clean all electric connections that I can, including the ground spiders, and main ground cable
• Remove and test the YCC-S control relay located underneath the seat
• Remove and clean shift actuator unit

 

Thank you everyone

Hi.
A few questions:
1. What's the current mileage?
2. How long ago was it last when you changed the clutch fluid?
3. Was there a problem BEFORE you adjusted the valves? If the answer is "no," what did you disassemble when adjusting the valves?

 

Hi,
There was no problem regarding the YCC-S or electrical system. The only issue was a distinct ticking sound coming from the left hand side of the engine, which, after replacing the CCT with the updated “blue dot” variant, was still there

I never needed to adjust the valves, fortunately, they were all within spec.

The bike has about 83k. I’ve never changed the clutch fluid, but the owner before me might have.

Edit: I missed one question. To adjust the valves, I removed the fuel tank, and everything above the valve cover (hoses, coolant “H” pipe, spark plugs).
However, the air box and throttle bodies were also removed earlier when I was diagnosing the sound.
The most unusual thing about this is that it worked without problem for a few minutes when I had the plastic removed.

Thank you for your response. I will post an update later today after some troubleshooting

 

Update:

Today I spent the day disconnecting each electrical connector in the entire front fairing area and underneath the seat.
I used a very small flathead screwdriver for the very dirty terminals and then sprayed everything with Berryman electrical cleaner, and cleaned the 3 ground spiders up front and one next to the ECU.
Removed the YCCS control relay and that tested good on the bench.
Battery voltage read 12.4 on the multimeter after days of sitting (not perfect but still good).
Let it dry for a few minutes, hooked everything back up, turned the key and tried to shift and immediately the Sh__15 code appears and I’m unable to shift.

Next I removed the shift actuator itself, opened up the motor housing, and found it to be completely covered in black powder/soot like material, and the motor brushes were almost gone.
Used the Berryman electrical cleaner to clean everything inside the motor/coil, and the brushes contact points, and reassembled it.

Hooked the shift actuator back up to the bike and bam, it’s working.
Finally put all the plastic back onto the bike and it is still shifting.

So, for now, the problem is resolved. I blame the dirty shift actuator motor and brushes for the fault code, which was related to “unusual current” in the actuators. When I have time I plan to order new brushes from eBay or something.

The real test is to see if it’s still working tomorrow morning.
Here are some photos of the work:

Also, does anybody know what this fuse like thing is underneath the seat? Found it taped up with electrical tape, it doesn’t seem factory…

Thank you to everyone for the replies

 

Sorry, didn’t get any photos of the shift actuator cleaning and removal. For anyone else dealing with this code, it’s the actuator that’s located on the LHS of bike, under the seat behind the plastic silver cover, with the shift rod connected to it and held on by two bolts.
There’s also the clutch actuator which can trip the same code, located deeper underneath the engine, so luckily it wasn’t that in my case

 

Sorry, didn’t get any photos of the shift actuator cleaning and removal. For anyone else dealing with this code, it’s the actuator that’s located on the LHS of bike, under the seat behind the plastic silver cover, with the shift rod connected to it and held on by two bolts.
There’s also the clutch actuator which can trip the same code, located deeper underneath the engine, so luckily it wasn’t that in my case

I'm very glad you thought to inspect the gear actuator before I responded.
There's also a clutch actuator (to remove it, you need to remove the rear wheel and swingarm) – it also needs servicing.
I also recommend measuring, selecting, and keeping spare actuator motor brushes. They'll come in handy.

 

Do you know, by chance, the sizes (are they different between the clutch and shift actuators)?

The closest size is the KSB0056MG Krauf (5x6x13 mm). But they need to be sharpened a bit.

Also, can the rear wheel and swingarm be removed while the bike is on the center stand?

Yes
Here's a video on removing the engine. It shows how to remove the wheel and swingarm.

Снятие двигателя FJR1300/Removing the FJR1300 engine - FJR1300 сервис

Друзья - очень большой и полезный фильм. На пути при снятии двигателя столько всего разбирается, что ролик 100% будет полезен всем.

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Here's a 14-day free trial for the "Watcher" category. This will help you out.

FJR1300 сервис - Домгделюбятфыжи

Добрый день, друзья. Вас приветствует АвтоМотоЦентр Гарант (Тверь) Сервис занимается обслуживанием мотоциклов Yamaha FJR1300 уже более 10 лет. Сервис одной марки и обладает высшим уровнем экспертизы по данному мотоциклу. С каждым днём поступает всё больше и больше писем и звонков с...

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