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2006 FJR1300 AS - Orion The Hunter
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You have to break your hands, so that they bend in 3 different ways, at the same time!

I have found using 1/4" tools, and accessing it from the right side seems to be a little easier, but NOT easy by any stretch!!
 

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Versys 1000, VFR800
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Dunno if this helps but you can take the 3 nuts off the shock adjuster lever and get it out of the way...... I'm gonna ask, why you think you need to remove it, the darn things don't fail.
 
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2006 FJR1300 AS - Orion The Hunter
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That would gain better access!
The only thing that failed for me, was the wiring harness to the voltage regulator. But I remedied that problem by bypassing it and running a new heavy wire sub-harness for just that voltage regulator.
 
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2013 FJR1300A, 2003 FZ1 "Bee"
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UH-oh.... time to investigate a "FJR-ness" like the VFR guys like to use... LOL
 
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2015 FJR-1300ESF
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That's exactly how a Roadstercycle R/R kit would do it. Had one two Vstroms ago

For some reason the original R/R had 4 output wires, 2 each DC power and ground. I'd have to break out the wiring diagram to check what was going with that.

I believe my 2015 FJR has exactly the same r/r as the 2008. I haven't had any charging system problems yet, but if I did I'd not hesitate to put in a Roadstercycle series R/R kit. That's my recommendation to OP if he ends up needing to replace the R/R on his 2008.
 

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Versys 1000, VFR800
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The plug from the stator has AC output, usually yellow wires, and it does not matter the polarity/order you attach them. There are some stator tests you can do to verify the stator is good (on an FJR it should be).

The other plug has two wires, usually the red wire (towards the middle of the R/R) is battery power, and the outer one is ground (usually black). DO NOT reverse the polarity or the R/R is instantly toast.

The Roadster Cycle harness is what I recommend, it's made of marine quality wire and is robust. Can't make it yourself for that money really, just buy it if you're wanting to bypass OEM wiring. As for a replacement R/R, the original FH020AA is still quite good (and you can upgrade the Gen1 to that (older FH012), plug and play. Roadster sells a super robust series SH847, but it's big..... might I suggest finding a genuine Shindengen series reg from a Versys1000 (SH866 I believe), same physical size as the FH020AA. Watching my voltmeter tells me just how much better it is than the shunt type if you are running heated gear or other higher draw accessories. But, no real need to go there if you don't want to.
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
You have to break your hands, so that they bend in 3 different ways, at the same time!

I have found using 1/4" tools, and accessing it from the right side seems to be a little easier, but NOT easy by any stretch!!
I took another look at it and I think you're right.
Bike on center stand(puts bike up high enough to see bolts with head close to ground) and go thru opening in swing arm and front of rear tire with 1/4 " tools (extensions and a swivel).
Thank you !!! I'll keep you updated . Part won't be here til Monday.
 

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2006 FJR1300 AS - Orion The Hunter
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Good Job, Tom! Yup, exactly how I did it!
 
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Versys 1000, VFR800
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I still want to know why you're removing it...... did you somehow have a failure?
 
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Odds are the charging system is OK, failures on FJR's aren't common at all. There is a parasitic draw by the system, very small but if the bike sits for a week or two with no Battery Tender, resting voltage can drop to less than 12.5... per Yuasa, this is 50% discharged and sulphation can start. So, first question, how long does the bike sit without a charger and have you tested anything before you take stuff apart?

First basic test, with battery freshly fully charged, do a key cycle (do not start) to remove surface charge. What is the resting voltage across the battery terminals...... should be around 12.7-12.8V.

Next, start the bike, what is the charging voltage across the battery terminals? Should be 13+ volts, more like 14 around 2500 rpm, full output is around 14.2-14.5 @ 5000 rpm. If this is good, then no charging problem. There are easy stator tests you can do also, should there be a problem.

No surprise bike dies with negative battery terminal disconnected......
 

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2006 FJR1300 AS - Orion The Hunter
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On these modern bikes, the battery is an essential component of the electrical system! Disconnecting the battery, while the bike is running, is akin to breaking the electrical circuit. The bike will stall out.

I have, unfortunately, had significant experience with the charging system on Orion, last year... All due to my negligence.

I had to replace my stator, VCR (Voltage Control and Regulator), battery, and VCR wiring harness.

Long story short, I reassembled my generator, sloppily, and got one of the dowel pins wedged between the stator and rotor. It did catastrophic, significant damage to the stator, the regulator, and of course the battery. The rotor was not damaged! That is one badass piece of metal!!

Everything Ray says, is 110% spot on!!

One day, after I get over my embarrassment, I will document what I effed up, and how I fixed it.

On these bikes, a GOOD battery makes all the difference!! It cannot be stated enough on these threads.... Just because a battery shows "good" voltage, doesn't necessarily mean is it a good battery! It HAS to have the Amps to push a good voltage or it is a dead stick, period! A neglected battery will cause ALL kinds of seemingly "electrical problems." When in fact, it is just a bad battery.

IN general, if you don't eff something up, while reassembling, the charging system on these bikes is robust and essentially bulletproof! The only "weakness" if I can even call it that, is the battery. But that is Not an FJR problem, that is a modern bike problem.

The battery is an essential, integral component of the electrical system. If it is not in top condition, the electrical system is compromised.

I am just offering my opinion. YMMV...
 
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