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I've got grip puppies and the bike doesn't vibrate. I had this same issue on my FZ1 before I replaced the bars with some that were not swept back as far. It's part of an ulnar nerve issue that I have. For now I'll have to just deal with it since I've got no time to come up with an alternate solution. Ultimately I think I will do something like this: (1) My handle bar repositioning project | FJR Owners Forum
Chuck,

Some days, ya can't give it away . . .
You will not see or feel the vibes that cause numbness, with the FJR.
Okay, try this. Put the bike on the centerstand, sit on it in the riding position, engine OFF, and see if you get numbness in the same length of time as you experienced when riding. I'm betting no.
Please feel free to ignore my advice.
 

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Discussion Starter · #82 ·
Chuck,

Some days, ya can't give it away . . .
You will not see or feel the vibes that cause numbness, with the FJR.
Okay, try this. Put the bike on the centerstand, sit on it in the riding position, engine OFF, and see if you get numbness in the same length of time as you experienced when riding. I'm betting no.
Please feel free to ignore my advice.
I get the same amount of numbness sitting at my desk holding a mouse. Trust me, I have had an issue in my right hand for almost 20 years. It is entirely about wrist angle. I would ride with a brace on but the bar angle doesn't allow it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #83 ·
Left after work for Mitchell. Lot of grooved concrete and the Angel gt front is not a fan. Big plus is that the speed limit in SD is 80 and people drive 90. Home sweet shed for the night and dinner in the shadow of the corn palace.
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Discussion Starter · #84 · (Edited)
It was a long day. Rolled out of bed in my shed at 7am. Went from deadwood to Sturgis to wall and then through the Badlands again on 240, had a crappy breakfast at the visitor center and then visited the Minuteman exhibit. After that it was 90-100mph (keeping up with left lane traffic) all the way across SD. Hard to slow down in MN, but home before 6. Hotter than heck all the way back. Blew the right front fork seal on a big highway bump - weird, it kicked the seal saver off the lower and I am guessing had puked half the fork oil all over the bike and some on the right front brakes. Luckily on the freeway brakes are unnecessary.

It was a good trip, now it is beer time, pizza time. My wife has tomorrow off and it is supposed to be 95 so boat day it is
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Discussion Starter · #85 · (Edited)
My takeaways after 1400 miles since Tuesday at 3pm.
1)The FJR is overall a great bike, smooth, fast and comfortable for the most part.
2) My handlebar setup sucks. The helibar tree tips the mounting points forward, so the risers I added make them higher and further forward. The bar angle is bad, if my shoulders were a foot narrower this would be a good setup. It is getting redone.
3) the pirelli angel gt front hates groved pavement. I will go with a Conti RA or TA next time.
4). 33 was a good pressure for the Riken raptor CT. Smooth and you could hardly tell it was a CT in the twisties. Thanks @rbentnail
5) The fjr side luggage is a huge pain. I may rig up a rack for givi panniers over the winter.
6) my normal 5w40 rotella doesn't cut it in the fjr - at least not for long high speed trips. Shifting is super clunky near the tail end of the trip. Will try something different. Never had an issue in other bikes, but this one needs something else.
7). I am undecided about the Sargent seat. It doesn't suck as bad (for me) as a RDL, but it is still too tractor seat like if you don't have a larger rear. I will likely order a top sellarie gel front and see how that goes.
8). Those Beamtech Led headlights are insanely bright. Yesterday I left at around 4:30 am and kept thinking that the brights were on.
 

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33 was a good pressure for the Riken raptor CT. Smooth and you could hardly tell it was a CT in the twisties. Thanks @rbentnail
(y)

my normal 5w40 rotella doesn't cut it in the fjr - at least not for long high speed trips. Shifting is super clunky near the tail end of the trip. Will try something different.
Some folks don't believe it but I learned early on that my '07 HATES Rotella oil. I dumped that crap for good back in 2009. Back then I tried a couple different brands and weights & settled on Valvoline 10w-40 full synth plain ol' auto oil. That stuff was the best! But alas, as auto oils have moved to the lighter side 10w-40 became harder and then nearly impossible to find or even order. I switched to Valvoline motorcycle specific 10w-40 Full Synth for spring & fall and 20w-50 for the heat of the summer. They both hold up well for a variety of riding styles from prolonged interstate like you did to high rpm/low gear unpaved national forest roads. I get mine at Auto Zone along with Mobil1 M1-110 filters. The M1-108 fit fine too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #87 ·
I'll have to try the Valvoline. My fz1 and dl1000 were both fine with the rotella, this one not so much
 

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I would say 5W40 is too light a viscosity in general, your shifting would be better with 10W40 (or 15W40 if you're sticking with Rotella T6).... side comment, although recommendations changed to lighter oils in the later years (presumably emissions related), the recommended oil back in the day was 20W40, which was only available in Yamalube. I found 20W just a tad too heavy..... you are not the first to say shifting with T6 was less than optimal...

I am wondering how you got the bug deflector off the forks, any time I rebuild forks I have a heck of time removing those..... you musta hit hard, likely bottomed out, blew out some oil..... perhaps the seal is not leaking other than that event. But you do have a lot of bug debris there too, might have damaged the seal... It only takes a tablespoon or so to soak rotors and pads.... I doubt you have lost anything significant...... suggest clean up with isopropanol and ride some more, see if your leak is genuine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #89 ·
Only thing I can figure is that it bottomed out. I also have had a heck of a time removing those from yamaha forks. I ordered some new seals and bushings just in case. I figure I have to pull the legs to reset the oil level so I will yank them apart and take a complete look. Only takes an extra 30 minutes or so and then I will know where it is all at.

But this morning is cleaning it all up so it can be worked on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #90 ·
The seal saver is broke. All the tabs snapped and the bottom is distorted/stretched from getting rammed onto the lower. Guess we'll add that to the order.
 

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Discussion Starter · #91 · (Edited)
That doesn't look good. But opened it up and it is basically full and clean within a few drops of the top. Oil was only on bottom of wheel, like it dropped when parked.
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And that seal saver hit the front brake line bracket and bent it a little. There was some oil on the dust seal and some on the seal saver, but you may be correct that little oil was lost. I am a little concerned that it was able to compress that much, but it was a pretty good bump at about 60mph. So maybe I ll glue it in place for the moment.
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All cleaned up and ready for some wax later. But now it is lake time. Still have one more day off.
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Honda aluminum washers for those drain and fill plugs.........

I don't know the actual air gap after filling fork oil level to the 100 mm level, but full 5" suspension travel is going to compress that air gap a lot.... a buddy of mine has a hydraulic press tall enough for forks. He fills with oil (no air gap at all) and compresses the fork to push the seals out..... works great.
 

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Discussion Starter · #93 ·
And she is all back in local configuration. Pirelli back on the rear, short windshield and waxed within an inch of it's life. Changed the oil with some t6 15w40 for now since I have some for the boat. Ordered some Valvoline bike synthetic to try on the next change. So it is ready for ZARS in a couple weeks.
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Discussion Starter · #94 · (Edited)
Did some research last night on a couple different handlebar solutions and ordered an ABM conversion setup so that I can use standard handlebars. Need to do some measurements, but I will likely use either Renthal high street bars or the Emgo superbike bars I have on my fz1.
No idea when the kit will get here from Germany but it will allow better tuning of bar position with standard MC risers and bars.
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Honda aluminum washers for those drain and fill plugs.........
Quirky thing about my '07- final drive weeped oil from from day 1 from the drain bolt no matter if I used Honda aluminum or Yamaha copper washers. It just weeped. I switched to a Dowty washer, problem solved.
 

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Discussion Starter · #96 · (Edited)
Started digging through the spare parts box during lunch to see what all I have for the conversion. Looks like instead of buying a Kaoko that I will just use a spare FZ1 Throttlemeister that I have. The Renthal aluminum bars I ordered have a 14mm ID, so I'll just drill and tap them to M16x1.5 rather than dealing with inserts. The inserts I had laying around are for steel bars anyway - so even if they were not way too large OD then would need to be epoxied/pinned.
Will need to figure out a thrust washer for the Throttlemeister since I don't have any spares. Set of 135mm Oxford grips should fit the FJR, they were too long for the FZ1.

I'm guessing that I'll need some offset risers too, but want to get it all together with just the ABM setup and bars first to see which directions I might still need to go. (Not planning on using that original tree, but it was in the parts pile)
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Discussion Starter · #97 ·
Bars showed up today - 2 of them in 2 separate boxes for some reason. Got started by drilling them out so they can be tapped for the bar ends.
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Discussion Starter · #98 ·
Tap showed up today, now I am just waiting on the parts from Germany.
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