07 yamaha fjr 1300 ae hot start problem

The MAP sensor (Intake Air Pressure) is the black device on top of the throttle bodies just left of center. Two screws will remove it, it has an electrical connector and a vacuum hose underneath. Remove the vacuum hose and inspect for crud blocking the hose and nipple. Ensure the hose is clean through its length. If there is blockage, the ECU can't get a proper atmospheric signal, poor idle and running can result.

Kill switch to OFF and side stand down..... To check error codes, push and hold the Select and Reset buttons on the dash, turn on ignition and continue to hold both buttons 8 seconds. Release and re-press both buttons for an additional 2 seconds. DiAG should appear on the display.
Scroll through the diagnostic codes with either the Select or Reset button, scroll to d:61 and if there are no codes, 00 should display. If it displays a number (the number of stored codes), it will automatically scroll through the code numbers repeatedly.... write them down. Scroll to d:62 and cycle the kill switch to RUN then OFF and the codes will clear. There are other diagnostics to look at if you want to scroll around (service manual has a list)..... to exit, just turn off the ignition.

Next question, when you say you don't push it, what rpm do you normally shift at, and do you occasionally run it up into the power band around 6000 rpm or more?

What is your location??

I have a story...... my '06 project bike.... owner rode it about how you do, and I apologize but that's riding like grandma. You are not getting into the power band, and typically this will cause carbon build-up on the intake valves and they won't seal properly.... thus your hard starting when hot problem. To confirm, do a compression test both with cold engine and hot engine, and if low when hot, do a leakdown test with compressed air into each spark plug hole (you need the proper compression/leakdown tester.... leakage past the intakes will be heard as air coming out the intakes. Record your compression test readings for each cylinder. This is your first step, so best get at it and see what you have.

Next, you then need to 'decarbonize'. True removal of carbon requires removing the cylinder head and manually cleaning it off everything, however...... before you do anything major like that, try a chemical method.... attach hoses to each of the sync ports (with removable plugs), run the engine fully warmed up and at a fast idle say 2000 or more, spray in a combustion chamber cleaner into each port one at a time. In the old days, we used to decarbonize by spraying water into our car carbeuretors.... the theory is, when the water turns to steam it lifts carbon off because water and carbon don't mix. Better to use a combustion cleaner with naptha in it to help it burn. Multiple treatments likely required. If you were able, a valve check each time would likely indicate valve clearances will get smaller as carbon is removed. After say 3 treatments over a month, you should need to do a valve clearance check and adjustment.

On my project bike, a Certified multiple award winning Yamaha mechanic did not do that, removed the engine and completely tore it down, thus ruining any chance of anything short of C$3000 in parts plus labour. I don't call that a real mechanic...... at most, he should have just removed the cylinder head if he was going to take anything apart.... so read all about it below and get that compression test done. Let us know what you got.....