|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|08-02-2020 11:26 AM|
Originally Posted by Corey Bacon View Post
I've always attributed that to a "closed loop" reaction to being right on the cusp between 2 stages in a map. It keeps jumping back and forth.
|08-02-2020 09:26 AM|
Other than highway speeds I run my 14a in the 2k-3k range all the time, simply doesn’t need more, just smooth as silk and accelerates smoothly, again you can’t be ham fisted although the throttle by wire won’t really let you be stupid, the fjr is just sooo smooth and flexible.
It will work easily under 2k all the way up to redline. There’s so much torque down low that there’s just no need to rev the crap out of it, the Yamaha engineers did a great job on the motor & fueling of this bike. But like most things here, your bike & your money.
I’ll add that most of the “stock” dyno curves I’ve seen on the fjr have 70+ ft/lbs at the rear wheel at around 2k rpm and surges to the near peak of about 98 ft/lbs from 5k to over 7k. Most of the Harley supposed superior low end torque usually peaks at about 68 ft/lbs but require you have nearly 3k to get it, most v-twins aren’t as good. Frankly the fjr is a torque monster compared to most other bikes so I prefer to use that available torque, it has some serious grunt in the 2-3k range and if I’m in a hurry I may rev it all the way to 5k which usually gets me well over most all speed limits. My .02
|08-01-2020 09:06 PM|
|KilgoreTrout||I think anything below 3 is lugging it, but I don't have any graphs or anything.|
|08-01-2020 06:16 PM|
|Corey Bacon||My issue is what i call surging...not bad enough to call bucking...would happen when going a constant speed and most commonly is the 3000-4000 rpm range..ecu flash got rid of it though..that and slow throttle response were my personal quirks with the fjr.|
|07-31-2020 09:01 PM|
|Coffee man||You would have to work at lugging the FJR. I've been amazed that it doesn't care what gear or speed you are at. Remarkable that you can slow down for a town and stay in top gear. Easy on the gas and it picks up like nothing! When I test rode the FJR I did that very thing. Right after that I took out a Honda CTX 1300 and tried the same thing. As soon as I gave it some gas it instantly stalled and I had to restart the motor. It was more a cruiser with a tractor like engine. That was my impression. The FJR I can slow to an idle in top gear and it will pull along just fine on a level road two up. I had a Yamaha Roadstar 1700 and the claim to big twins is all that low down torque. That bike did not like slow speeds. Forget about trying to idle in slow traffic in first or second gears. It would buck and be miserable. Even at 55 mph in top gear the engine was not quite happy. 60 was better. The only time the Roadstar surprised me was going up a long hill in a drizzle I was doing about 40 mph in second and the back tire broke loose. Those bikes don't have a very wide back tire. The bike might have done better if I had spent money on a fuel processor. I suspect it was running a bit too lean for emissions. I just Love the smooth effortless power of the FJR! It goes about as fast as I want without feeling like I'm beating on it. I don't think I've got much past 7000 rpm with the FJR. The Roadstar was perhaps deceptively fast but I felt I was beating on it. I hit the rev limiter in almost every gear at one time or another. It just had a slight pause in acceleration when it hit the limiter. Dam! it was just starting to go good and the fun was over. 780+ lbs. and a handful at a stop even with a relatively low seat height.|
|07-29-2020 02:23 AM|
|Ditch||Are you lugging it in 3rd or 4th at 1500-2000 rpm while slowly adding throttle (5-8%) waiting for the revs to pick up? For the purpose of saving a shift or two?|
|07-24-2020 12:20 AM|
Just providing the gear/speed/rpm chart again for reference.
I think some definitions of lugging vary in people's minds.... IMHO just because it isn't pinging doesn't mean you aren't lugging it. How about, I prefer a clean burn of fuel at any given speed such that you're not building up carbon, which I suppose is also the speed where the engine doesn't require more throttle to maintain a certain speed.
We talked vacuum in another thread.... with vacuum at max, it's the best fuel economy you can get, normal riding will be somewhat less than that... low vacuum readings would mean lugging when cruising.
|07-24-2020 12:02 AM|
My opinion,,,,, if the engine isn’t chugging or bucking it isn’t lugging. I routinely run my 14 2000-2500 rpm and it works smoothly and on occasion have run it down to 1500rpm with a little judicious throttle hand.
On my antique Carbureted bikes one way to tell how it is tuned I will run it down to idle in 5th and see if it will pull cleanly back up smoothly w/o any bucking, no you can’t just whack the throttle open but with the vacuum slide carbs of the old bikes they will pretty much modulate what the engine wants & the newer throttle-by-wire stuff simply just won’t allow you to do anything to hurt the engine no matter how stupid you are.
I do not believe that you need to keep the engine screaming for some myth that if you don’t you’ll hurt the engine, if that was the case then why would all the modern cars made today basically run just over idle at 65mph or so and they all easily will last 100 to 200k. Just blasting the rpms to presumably prevent damaging the engine from lugging it is pure myth,,,,, to a point !
I file this in with the old time myth that you must blip the throttle to “match” the rpm’s to be able to downshift w/o damaging the tranny, purť bs ! Now in the old days before tranny’s were synchronized you did have to do that to get the tranny to shift but in the modern world it’s just bs and nothing more.
|07-23-2020 09:55 PM|
Originally Posted by Yammieboy View Post
|07-23-2020 09:32 PM|
Nice write up.
I know it's not very scientific, but after 55 years in the saddle I feel I know when it's lugging, but it may be hard to explain to a newer rider. I can idle up the little hill into my shop in low gear just idling -- not lugging. But idle speed would be silly in higher gears. In 5th gear I much prefer at least 3500. Your dyno chart validates my decision But when just easing along in slow, steady traffic I have no trouble doing 2500 in the lower gears with just barely enough throttle to maintain. In any case, I can apply light throttle and pull away cleanly. I guess that's my real barometer; will the bike pull away cleanly with light throttle?
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