|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|08-02-2020 06:28 AM|
|08-01-2020 01:39 PM|
Originally Posted by rbentnail View Post
Exactly. I took it over to Gboro dealer just a bit ago. I figured I had gotten into the fast start issue, and didn’t really try to resolve it. The stinky part is that it’ll take awhile for the dealer to get the ignition switch in. They did have the wiring harness to do the s4 recall which is good.
Thanks for the feedback everyone.
|08-01-2020 08:04 AM|
|passx||In addition to the switch issue, I’d take the battery out & take it to a auto parts store and have it “load” tested, it’ll tell you if there is a problem with the battery that simply checking the voltages will not, like a cracked or shorted plate. Most places like O’Reilly’s will do that for free as a service. Then you’ll know for sure if the battery’s good or not. May be more than one problem here.|
|08-01-2020 06:12 AM|
Ok, lemme see if I get this right:
Playing with ignition switch will sometimes get bike power on. Bike will then attempt to start (crank) but will not actually run (not turn over). Right? And when it fails to start the engine trouble light stays on. Right?
Sounds like you've found the initial problem, the ignition switch. If a dealership is going to honor the recall, don't let them hoodoo you. The new switch is to be re-keyed to match your existing ignition key. Some dealers over the yrs were not doing that and folks ended up with 2 different keys- one for ignition, another for everything else.
After that, it sounds like you're into the cold crank/fast starter syndrome. Battery must be in top notch condition or hooked to a charger/jump starter (DO NOT HOOK TO ANOTHER RUNNING VEHICLE!!!). Try starting with the throttle held wide F'in open.
|07-31-2020 10:27 PM|
So I called Yamaha and they said dealer would take care of recalled switch. I was playing with key by switching on then off and I got bike dash to come on and dials to sweep, but bike wouldn’t turn over. I did check battery again and it read 12.7. After cranking bike for a few minutes, but not turning over, for it dropped to 12.5.
So now I’m really confused. I think switch is defective cause dials go off once key switches over to the on position, but when I get dials to come on by holding key between the on and off position I can’t get bike to turn over and the engine light stays on as well. 😡😡
|07-31-2020 02:14 PM|
Originally Posted by RaYzerman View Post
I remember two recalls in '06: instrument cluster & wiring harness....not sure if cluster would short but you'd smell wiring if harness did.
|07-31-2020 12:50 PM|
Originally Posted by PersonaGrip View Post
|07-31-2020 12:07 PM|
|PersonaGrip||A friend works at Yamaha Headquarters and told me to install a high-amp SPST toggle between the two 10ga.(?) wires coming out of the harness to the keyswitch. I mounted it on the black vertical plastic in front of the keyswitch. You STILL need the key to start it, although flipping the switch makes the gauges live. So, if some thief tries to slide-hammer out the tumbler in an attempt to steal it, it won't start unless they find the hidden switch....shhhh. I've done it to two '02 FJRs...so far.|
|07-31-2020 01:06 AM|
|07-30-2020 11:16 PM|
Turn key on and nothing
Could be your ignition switch. I had the same thing happen. One day to the next, working, then not. Took the switch apart to find a broken solder point. In fact all the solder points looked cold. Soldered the disconnected wire, put it back together, has been working fine the last two years. The switch is easy to take apart and fix. I seem to recall there was a problem with first gen ignition switches.
edit: oops. I see you have a 2nd gen.
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