|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|08-01-2020 03:04 AM|
Ok relay swapped with 2nd hand part and still the same deal.
So I've started testing wiring as per the factory service manual.
I sat and thought about a few things...I'm not getting any diagnostic test at all so i figured well could be the abs ECU and so I've conducted some testing there with a multi-meter.
I got to a section where you're testing the delete function on the ABS ECU.
Anything is worth a try!
Now when run test number 7:
Start switch on: LESS then 1V - I get 0.06 so all good there.
Start switch off: More than 12V - I get 10.2 to 10.6V on numerous tests.
Out of specification -> Replace the handlebar switch.
This could be the reason why I'm not getting any diagnostic test out of this bike...if the start switch isn't functioning perhaps it's not triggering the ABS ECU to try and run the test properly?
Would an after market universal start switch (with kill switch built in of course) suit to rectify this or would I have to go for a genuine yamaha part?
Would a start switch from an XJR1300 be ok to use?...they look the same as an FJR1300.
Thanks in advance guys.
|07-18-2020 08:30 AM|
|RaYzerman||Great. Try the relay swap and let us know how it goes.|
|07-18-2020 12:39 AM|
Cheers for all the advice.
I've ordered a 2nd hand relay from a wrecker on ebay for 50 bucks delivered.
I figured it was going to be the easiest option at this stage for a quick fix if it works.
If not I'll opt to try and remove the abs and go on that adventure!
I was getting pretty frustrated but then i thought well if i need to remove the ABS and then go from there it'll be a learning opportunity at the least.
|07-17-2020 08:54 AM|
Originally Posted by DunJen View Post
You could pull your unit or check condition of solenoids or motor somehow via forensic analysis, either with or without a replacement unit in hand, or do nothing and have no ABS... regular brakes only. Suggest you take some time to figure out your next move.
Still could be the relay.... if one could figure out the wiring diagram and put power to the ABS unit directly, one could determine if it will cycle while the relay is out of the picture. Sorry, I haven't worked on Gen1 ABS, might be able to find old threads from way back if you're lucky. I'd say get a new relay except it's an expensive one, maybe you'll stumble on a used one?
|07-17-2020 02:29 AM|
Both methods tried...no results
When initially turning on the ignition key, the bike intialises, cluster lights (neutral lit, ABS light is already solid,) fuel pump primes, I can hear some clicking from the ABS relay (just like the film clip).
and that's it.
No noises, clicking, codes or anything to acknowledge that a test is being run.
|07-17-2020 12:01 AM|
Usually use this method, you can skip trying to rotate the rear wheel.
To oversimplify ABS activation method 1 to test the system:
To oversimplify ABS activation method 2 to test the hydraulic system:
Try both....... let us know.
|07-16-2020 10:20 PM|
I've uploaded a video as to how i'm performing the test.
Can you guys let me know if this correct or if I'm screwing this up
|07-16-2020 09:55 PM|
Originally Posted by DunJen View Post
|07-16-2020 07:58 PM|
I've decided to button everything up and take it for a ride and see if the ABS light changes or goes out,
I'll also carefully test the rear brake and try and engage ABS.
If this all fails, my next step is to put the bike back up on the center stand and perhaps pull out the hydraulic unit and see if I can clean this out with brake fluid and compressed air,
Lets see what happens,
|07-15-2020 10:06 AM|
since i never read that you actually have a issue with abs other then the light coming on i would recommend riding it since i had the light too its normal to come on when on the center stand when you ride it it goes away do this before anything else just to make sure else you're wasting your time and money
always try the easy thing first!
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