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Thread: Installation of R-Gaza Crash Bars Reply to Thread
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  Topic Review (Newest First)
07-14-2019 11:11 AM
Blueridgerider
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2GENAE View Post
My rear RGAZA bars for my 2008 had the wrong threads on two bolts, had to go to hardware store and purchase two more. Emailed them on Amazon where I purchased them to let them know they are sending out GEN II rear kits with the wrong bolts, no reply go figure. I wanted CC but they stopped making them and T-REX was out of stock back then. They do work, bike tipped over and NO damage to any paint.
I would say they are worth all the aggravation right there. I hope to never try them out but now have peace of mind. Cheap insurance I think as what happens if you drop it without them. Leave it scarred up or file an insurance claim and your premiums go up. Glad I bought them and I think they look pretty good.
07-14-2019 09:32 AM
2GENAE
Quote:
Originally Posted by Blueridgerider View Post
Thanks for the response. I am not sure what your experience was putting these things on but it was pretty brutal for me. I always do most of the work on my bikes so I have many other tough jobs to compare it to. The rear bars were relatively easy but the front ones were a PIA. I finally got the bolts to line up but it really took some hard work putting the different bolts in. The 3 mounting points have to be perfectly aligned or the main bolt is not going in. At one point I was convinced it was not going to fit. One bolt runs through the bike so tightening nuts on both sides by yourself is not the easiest thing to do either.

Also it does not help when the bars come from Russia and they send a bolt without threads. I was able to make things work with other parts so it was ok in the end. I am just glad the bald bolt was not a main one as it took a month for the bars to get here and would imagine I might have replacement parts by Christmas. I am not trying to scare anyone away from the job as I did it and was worth it. I also lost 10 pounds in the process Man it was hot in my garage. In the end I really like them, they look better than I thought, and now have peace of mind in case of a tip over. For anyone attempting this job or thinking about it and have questions I will be glad to help.
My rear RGAZA bars for my 2008 had the wrong threads on two bolts, had to go to hardware store and purchase two more. Emailed them on Amazon where I purchased them to let them know they are sending out GEN II rear kits with the wrong bolts, no reply go figure. I wanted CC but they stopped making them and T-REX was out of stock back then. They do work, bike tipped over and NO damage to any paint.
07-14-2019 05:03 AM
jtdunc I had a thread here on installing them on a Gen I.

Might help.

You have to figure them out like a little puzzle.

https://www.fjrowners.com/forums/9-f...rds-gen-i.html
07-13-2019 12:05 PM
Steve Bracken
Quote:
Originally Posted by Blueridgerider View Post
The instructions for these bars said FJR’s without YCCS unfortunately. Maybe they make 2 different ones.
I saw that. They also have a set for the YCCS bikes. They are about $20 more and fix to four points.

Thanks.
07-13-2019 09:42 AM
Blueridgerider
Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Bracken View Post
I love my Canyon Cages on the '05, but they were spendy.

We just got an '06 with YCCS, for Jodie ... I think these bars will be going on it.
The instructions for these bars said FJR’s without YCCS unfortunately. Maybe they make 2 different ones.
07-12-2019 10:24 PM
Steve Bracken
Quote:
Originally Posted by RaYzerman View Post
Information varies, but torque values with a lubricated thread as these will be with anti-seize should be dropped at least 20%, meaning to 27. Technically, I think the experts say more like 30+%, but I have a mental block with that too. I wouldn't even take them back out to re-do it if they're already in at whatever. The less that goes on with these threads in the frame the better.
to Bill, likely they were a plainer steel and the shafts got rusty I'm guessing. Plain steel reacts less with aluminum than some platings... stainless in aluminum is just plain wrong without anti-seize, while chrome would be good.
Story....... I worked at an OEM automotive, the guys would steal the aluminum valve caps from the TPMS sensors and put them on their brass rubber valve stems.... found out later when they needed to add air that they couldn't get them off.
... but, just for a moment, they created something beautiful
07-12-2019 10:15 PM
RaYzerman Information varies, but torque values with a lubricated thread as these will be with anti-seize should be dropped at least 20%, meaning to 27. Technically, I think the experts say more like 30+%, but I have a mental block with that too. I wouldn't even take them back out to re-do it if they're already in at whatever. The less that goes on with these threads in the frame the better.
to Bill, likely they were a plainer steel and the shafts got rusty I'm guessing. Plain steel reacts less with aluminum than some platings... stainless in aluminum is just plain wrong without anti-seize, while chrome would be good.
Story....... I worked at an OEM automotive, the guys would steal the aluminum valve caps from the TPMS sensors and put them on their brass rubber valve stems.... found out later when they needed to add air that they couldn't get them off.
07-12-2019 10:07 PM
Steve Bracken I love my Canyon Cages on the '05, but they were spendy.

We just got an '06 with YCCS, for Jodie ... I think these bars will be going on it.
07-12-2019 07:43 PM
Bill Lumberg Great info guys. I had frame sliders up front and T-Rex bag guards in the rear on my 2014. They were tested and did the job with zero damage to the bike or to the guards. When I pulled them to prepare the ‘14 for sale, to save them for install to the ‘18, none of the bolts were something you’d want to put back in a bike. They looked bad. I obtained new bolts for all, installed the same sliders and guards on the ‘18, bit these were slathered with antiseize. Time will tell if these bolts fare better.
07-12-2019 07:24 PM
Blueridgerider
Quote:
Originally Posted by RaYzerman View Post
Let's put it this way..... if you never remove those bolts for a year or two, you may find the dissimilar metal corrosion will make it very difficult to remove them, and you could bring all the aluminum threads with you.... major repair. They are in there at I think 33 ft. lbs.... it's two bolts... I'd do it.
I would also recommend anyone remove those two if you haven't..... you might be surprised what's been going on in those threads, especially if you installed crash bars/sliders with non-OEM hardware.... Do it by hand, not with a powered impact wrench, clean up the bolt threads, generously coat with anti-seize and reinstall..... sorry, I've just seen too many on all the FJR's I've worked on.
Thanks RaYzerman. I really appreciate it. It is people like you that help so many of us here. You probably saved me from a huge issue later on. I took your advice and pulled the bolts and reinserted them with the anti-seize on them. It is so much easier once you do this job once. I loosened everything up and the bolts went in without any problems. I once read that the torque values on the front would be less than specified with the anti-seize applied? I see 33 lbs. About right?
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