|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|06-29-2019 02:38 PM|
Originally Posted by passx View Post
|06-28-2019 11:16 PM|
Ptackly, try starting it in neutral, pull the clutch in, blip the throttle and then put it in 1st, I bet it just goes “snip” ,, give it a try and see..
How does it shift after the initial start & drop into gear ?
|06-28-2019 01:16 PM|
Originally Posted by rbentnail View Post
Come to think of it the sweetest oil I have used in FJR is a Valvoline 20W-50 “4T” oil I found at Walmart.
|06-28-2019 11:52 AM|
|Ptackley||Interestingly, today, I put it in neutral, rolled it back and front about three feet, started it from cold, and put it in 1st gear, and it slipped in with no crunch, and no forward lurch...|
|06-27-2019 07:10 PM|
|doc||Sounds like pretty normal behaviour to me. Every motorcycle i’ve ever owned has had cold clutch drag to a greater or lesser degree|
|06-27-2019 05:36 PM|
Originally Posted by Ptackley View Post
Originally Posted by N4HHE View Post
|06-27-2019 08:59 AM|
As several have said above, bleed the clutch hydraulics well, check the pivot and bushing very closely and maybe a clutch plate soak & clean. Take a look when you shift to see that the rpm’s drop immediately when you pull the clutch in, it should.
I think the fjr has a propensity to drag the clutch some regardless, on my 14a when it was new it would drag badly so the bike was very hard to shift, it started right after the 600mi service so I had thoughts of it being oil as did the dealer so I changed to a different oil brand on the recommendations made here, it had zero effect on the clutch. It was still under warranty so the dealer did the work and I got to see 2 of the removed clutch packs first hand and they were welded together with the black goo Russ mentioned above, it took a hammer and screwdriver to break them apart.
On mine, the cause manufacturing debris in the clutch hydraulic slave system that caused my clutch to drag, it apparently wouldn’t allow it to disengage and after Yamaha got involved and they disassembled the entire actuation system and cleaned it, it’s been pretty much perfect since but I will add that if the bike sits for longer than a week When i start it, When i pull the clutch in I blip the throttle to I believe separate the clutch plates, this provides a nice quiet “snip” into 1st gear instead of a “clunk” , i’ll add that the “clunk” isn’t all that bad but the “snip” is so much quieter and it has to be easier on things.
By the way i’m On the 4th clutch pack in my bike but i’ll add that since the dealer got things right that my fjr is one of the very best shifting tranny’s i’ve ever experienced, But I do believe that the fjr clutch is susceptible to being dry & dragging. It is not pressure fed oil like most.
Lots of good suggestions above and if you use the search function here you will find lots of info on the fjr clutch issues, but in my opinion the only things that really affect it are either air or debris in the slave system, worn bushings or pivots or if it’s dragged enough to create the infamous black goo then you're going to Need to do a clutch soak/clean. Get a shop manual if you don’t have one, the Yamaha manual is very thorough but a bit difficult to follow but the Haynes or other aftermarket one’s are simpler to follow but not quite as thorough. Let us know what you find.
|06-26-2019 10:48 PM|
|RaYzerman||What Russ said....a few factors, the brass bushing, the levers and flush/leed annually. But, also sounds like a clutch soak wouldn't hurt. BTW, Gen3 has extra holes in the clutch basket to allow more oil than prior Gens... you'll notice more drag with a heavier viscosity oil than a lighter one....|
|06-26-2019 07:03 PM|
Put on your internet fire suit.
Try a different motor oil. Clutch drags when cold with many motor oils, not so much with others. Its not such a bad option to Just Live With It. Point the motorcycle in a safe direction and hold on before putting it in 1st gear.
|06-26-2019 06:07 PM|
|Ptackley||Put in Valvoline 20w-50 around October of last year...approximately 1400 miles ago|
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