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  Topic Review (Newest First)
06-28-2019 09:39 PM
Alan smithy Important question! How long has this problem been occurring, how long have you had the bike, has anyone ever done any work on the clutch.
06-28-2019 08:16 PM
Alan smithy My 06 is full time driven, it runs off the clutch basket, it must run all the time because it runs the oil pump and the water pump.
Something doesn't sound right here, I wouldn't ride it anymore until you have that checked out.
06-28-2019 08:08 PM
08FJRRider I use a Lisle Spill Free Funnel. Works great at burping the air out of the system.
Here's a link to their web site. https://www.lislecorp.com/specialty-...ree-funnel-606
Also available on Amazon
06-28-2019 12:06 PM
barnstormer
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alan smithy View Post
I had the same problem with my 06 fjr, I'm not saying it could be your problem, but it's worth while checking it out. You have to remove the water pump, and look inside the engine, you will see a sprocket with a chain on it, use a screwdriver to see if the sprocket turns, if it doesn't turn it's all good, this is for the oil, water pump drive shaft, I had a snapped chain on my bike. I hope it's not your problem.
"then cools down and retains a good temperature throughout the rest of the ride"

Funny old sprocket that engages and disengages ain't it?
06-28-2019 09:10 AM
RaYzerman Around town, airflow through the rad is insufficient, fans will kick on at 7 bars and should come down after that....... that is typical. True indication is if riding at speed (not in town), temp should be 4 bars. If so, call it good. I agree, you had some air in there.
I have tried various methods to purge air in the past, my latest method is to fill the system not quite to the filler neck, start the engine and warm it up and watch it circulate. Air from below should purge itself, maybe you need to add a little more if it drops while warming up. Still don't fill it right up, let it warm up and the coolant will expand. When it fills the filler neck, I put the rad cap on while running and let it get hot to the point I know the thermostat is open... no need to go right until the fans kick on, but that's OK too. It should suck some coolant back in when it cools down, and normalize after the second cooling cycle.
06-28-2019 12:21 AM
Eck22
Test run

Well, I topped off both the radiator and reservoir. Leaned the bike from side to side to rid it of air bubbles. Then poured some more in to top it off. I notice a pretty big improvement on the temperature gauge. Around town it stays around 6 bars. I even pulled into my drive way and let it idle. It got up to seven bars with the fans kicking on. The fans shut off and the gauge went back down to 6 bars. I'll keep you guys up to date if anything else occurs. Overall, I conclude that it was a lot of air in the system. The level of coolant in the reservoir tank still hasn't gone down.
06-27-2019 09:54 PM
Eck22 What's the average water temperature on an FJR?
06-27-2019 09:45 PM
Eck22 Well, I swapped the heat sensors. It still reads pretty hot. The fans do kick on at around 6 bars or more.
06-27-2019 09:40 PM
Eck22 Yep, it sure is.
06-25-2019 09:37 PM
RaYzerman Chances are you still have too much air, which will not allow the system to suck in coolant from the reservoir bottle.. you've ridden it a couple of times I take it, and it means it is low (at the rad cap). Refill, ensure the overflow reservoir is topped up to max or slightly above. After another cooling cycle it should suck some in when the bike cools down.... maybe a tad more on the second cycle but should stabilize.
The high temp reading is because the coolant temperature sensor in the coolant pipe is not in contact with coolant, but most likely air.
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