Cruise control issues and questions about diagnostics - Yamaha FJR Forum : Yamaha FJR Owners Forums
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-04-2016, 09:43 AM Thread Starter
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Cruise control issues and questions about diagnostics

So my cruise control has been acting up lately. Twice now while riding and using CC without any issues at all the CC light just starts flashing and won't work anymore. This morning when it happened again I got to work and shut off the bike. Turn it back on, ignition only and press the CC button. Stays illuminated for several seconds then starts flashing. As soon as it starts flashing the multi fiction display stops showing the trip information and just shows the number 90.

What does the 90 mean? Would think this means something simple like the diagnostic system has a fault in it's history.

I've already went through the CC self diagnostics and cleaned up the sensors. No idea what can be causing this.


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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-04-2016, 10:29 AM
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I think I have seen (here) about a half dozen problems in as many months where a flaky battery caused an off the wall problem.

Lesson: We need to start asking about battery condition.
How's your battery condition?
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-04-2016, 10:34 AM Thread Starter
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I just read through the other thread, definitely interesting. Battery seems strong and it starts up quickly every time. Tonight I will run through the self diagnostics again, next step will be battery and fuse access.

It's a 2013, not sure how long our batteries last on average. Obviously that varies heavily on a lot of different parameters


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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-04-2016, 10:55 AM
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-04-2016, 12:55 PM
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I just read through the other thread, definitely interesting. Battery seems strong and it starts up quickly every time. Tonight I will run through the self diagnostics again, next step will be battery and fuse access.
Unfortunately, with all the electronics a Series III has, that doesn't mean that much.

When idling, your battery should measure 14.20 - 14.25 volts. Less than oh, 14.0 volts or so and I would say you have a problem with the battery or charging system. It really does not take much.

All the 1.0 amp Cruise Control fuse feeds is the control line for the interlock through the Clutch Switch, Front and Rear Brake Switch, and the Grip Cancel Switch (located on the Throttle Body Assy.) to the ECU.

I would guess that any Series III is new enough that you shouldn't have any problems with the wiring.

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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-04-2016, 01:23 PM Thread Starter
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When I was messing around with the diagnostic system yesterday I thought I saw a voltage reading. Can't remember what it was. Hopefully I can check it today


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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-04-2016, 11:04 PM Thread Starter
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Cruise control issues and questions about diagnostics

Looks like I've figured it out. Started running through the diagnostics checks until I got to the one that tests the front brake. The diagnostic system tests on off condition for the switch, but the brake light is also an indicator. Occasionally upon pressing the front brake the brake light would remain on after releasing. Pressing and releasing a few times turned the light off. Each time I got the brake light to stay on, the CC light starts flashing and doesn't stop until turning ignition off and on.

I haven't analyzed the wire diagrams yet, but I don't believe this is a switch near the brake lever that is sticking. After cleaning things up it seems to be connected to the brake pedal switch. However, the brake pedal never caused the light to stay on and passed the diagnostic check without issue. So I'm thinking it has to be some switch shared by both brakes


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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-04-2020, 04:20 AM
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2017 Model used as a Blood Bike, miles 42k
Recently dropping out of cruise, front brake micro switch assembly replaced, all good for 500 miles.
Newish problem, frequently it fails to engage cruise, but if it does it operates normally.
I suspect there may be a relay failing to latch on request.
Any thoughts and advice greatly appreciated.
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-04-2020, 11:20 AM
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The front and rear brake switches and the clutch switch can all disconnect or prevent the CC from engaging. I would start there.

bike X miles=smiles
smiles bike=miles
smiles miles=bike.
It's simple math.

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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-04-2020, 11:40 AM
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2017 Model used as a Blood Bike, miles 42k
Recently dropping out of cruise, front brake micro switch assembly replaced, all good for 500 miles.
Newish problem, frequently it fails to engage cruise, but if it does it operates normally.
I suspect there may be a relay failing to latch on request.
Any thoughts and advice greatly appreciated.
No relays involved. It's all electronics and interlock switches.


Check the CC page in the attached wiring diagram. That page should be little different from your 2017.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf FJR Electrical Diagram 2013A-2015A.pdf (4.70 MB, 6 views)

Time spent looking at motorcycles, even Harleys, is never wasted.

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Series III fairing removal:
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