Firstly although I have owned 2 FJR's (08 AS Auto Clutch for five years, then a 13 AS for two) and have lurked on various forums, I seldom post anything, so I apologise for my lack of postings
So to cut to the chase.....I had front wheel shimmies with both my FJR's and over the years whilst seeking various solutions both via these forums and thru dealership techies, never reached a solution to the problem, I tried all the suggestions...Five different makes of tyres and all replaced in pairs..many re-balances and every combination of tyre pressures...inspection repacking, re-torquing, changing head bearing types (to taper rollers) suspension setting checks etc etc..I think you get the picture that every base was covered including being over-checked by Yam Senior Tech....Nothing cured the problem, granted some tyre combo's were less pronounced than others, so I learned to accept the condition which lets face it isn't a big deal unless you like decelerating with no hands on the bars.
So when the new 2013my came out I traded my old steed in order to try the new bikes great features..y'know the cruise, the electric suspenders..the improved auto clutch etc.
Now whilst enjoying the new bike I'd completely forgotten about trying the hands off shimmy until the original tyres (B'stone 023's) were a good few thousand in so I was a little surprised to find that even with all the new fangled front end the shimmy was still there!
So...I thought.."Here we go again!!"
Didn't want to replace with the same tyres again so after checking head bearing torque decided to try a set of the then new Avon Storm 3D XM's especially after learning that the UK tyre development was carried out using Avon's own FJR test bike.
Ok so pair of boots fitted and dynamically balanced on a brand new bike tyre machine I fitted said wheels...only to find shimmy was the worst I have ever encountered!!
So the head scratching began...Tyres re-balanced...Head bearings checked for grease damage-all ok, so carefully reassembled to the letter of the factory manual.
I then had the Yam guy check over bike, he agreed on the shimmy but offered all the suggestions I had already tried!!
So I decided to remove the front end and recheck my work
...which is when I stumbled on some rather excessive play in the fork legs! and it gets worse.....
Not only is the play at the axle 1mm on one side and 1.5mm on the other-front wheel and front mudguard removed, but can be felt at the point where the fork bushes live....except there are NO BUSHES in the fork assembly!! unbelievable I know but go and check the Official Yam Parts Manual..I did and there's no parts listed whatsoever
At last I thought I was on to something regarding the shimmy, so I printed the page from the parts manual and headed off to my dealer....who after a phone call to Yam Technical confirmed that the parts diagram is correct and that there are no replacement bushes available!!
So it seems that a serviceable part like the front forks cannot be overhauled except for seals and oil..to me this means that the fork legs must be changed in order to replace the bushes!!!
The other mind blowing snippet of info I was told was that the service limit on leg end play was 4mm!! which if you can visualise would feel like the legs were broken, as my fork legs felt pretty sick with only 1mm play in them.
As I couldn't believe the info I was hearing I asked the Techies to strip and check an unsold brand new FJR/AS, which they were happy to do as they could not believe what was being told to them via Yam Technical...
The dealer called me and asked me to call in at the shop as he wanted me to see what the techie had found.....Play of 2mm in one leg and 1.5mm in the other!!....This was a brand new bike!!
As I was investigating this problem of mine I discovered that the Super Tenere 1200 with the eletronic suspension adjustment with the same type KYB forks fitted has got REPLACEABLE fork bushes...WTF???
So if anyone out there has the upsidedown forks and happens to have the front wheel out take the front mudguard off, grip hold of the fork end and feel the area around where the fork bush inside the outer leg is to feel for any play you may be surprised to find like me that they clunk as you shake the fork end to and fro (the play can be felt sideways on to bike just the same as the play is in the bush clearance with the stanchion)
It will feel like the head bearings are loose, this is why you must remove the front mudguard as you can isolate the legs individually.
I could not believe that the seals would hold up with that amount of play but mine have not even wept a drop!
Sorry for the long post!